"Mitch" - The rescued '85

[ostlar]

This is a thread dedicated to my truck, documenting regular maintenance, troubleshooting, improvements and everything in-between.
It is one of few first generation trucks left in Norway, and especially one of few with the 2L 4G63.

I hope this thread will give inspiration, advice or help to others.


July 2023


Specifications:

• Engine: 2L 4G63 with carburetor, manual choke
• Driveline: 5 speed manual, 4WD with High/Low gear
• Origin: Sold new in Norway in November 1985
• Bought: December 2019 - 137340km on the clock

I will try to keep all posts cronological with an entry date from 2019 and until now.
Every image will also be dated. This main post will be edited and updated with a recent photo when necessary.
Bear with me as it will take a few days to post everything that has been done to the truck.

Feel free to start a discussion at any time!

- Lars

[ostlar]

December 2019

I came across the truck for sale online during coffee break at work.
Never had I seen one of these before, but it caught my attention because of the 80's boxy design.

I had already a 1989 Mitsubishi Galant (2L 4G63 EFI) so I was familiar with older Mitsubishis, but nothing like this.
Immediately showed it to one of my coworkers and he said I should go and buy it, no doubt.

By the end of my shift I had contacted the seller and arranged a meetup. I was going to have this one.

Later that week I had a look at it. The body looked a bit more shabby in person, but the frame was mint. No major rust that I could spot. It had signs of water puddling up from the doors and onto the floor, as the driver side floor was a bit rusted. Passenger floor had some rust too, but not as bad.

The bed was mint, not even surface rust on it. I'm not sure if it was fixed up at some time, as it was kinda in too good condition considering the car had been parked outdoors most of its life.

Hood and roof had some major clear coat damage, with specs of clear coat being peeled away. I also think the paint itself went with the clear coat, as it seems like there's only the primer left. Whenever it's wet and I drag my finger across, my finger gets gray from the paint or primer.
There's no rust yet, so that's good. My plan was to keep the rat look and just put clear coat on top to seal it.

Gave the previous owner about $3k and went home as a happy L200 owner. This was the first image I took after stopping for dinner:


07.12.2019


Looking back at this, I am grateful for my coworker pushing me into buying it. I absolutely love it.

[ostlar]

January 2020

I quickly discovered the engine had some issues. Whenever I put more then 3/4 of the pedal down, it backfired up through the air intake and I lost power. I started by diagnosing the distributor, and quickly realized the ignition points was adjusted wrong and had burned a hole in it.

Luckily there was one spare in the glove box so I mounted it, adjusted the timing and voilá, the car ran fine again. Ordered all new ignition parts (ignition pins, spark plugs, distributor cap, capacitor etc.) and kept them in the car in case something else went wrong.


First mod

The first modification was one of my favorite ones. I'm a music lover and I was missing something in the car.
I wanted to be able to play music from my phone through Bluetooth, but I didn't want a modern car stereo protruding out of the dashboard.

The solution? Take out the old cassette deck, modify its internals to house a Bluetooth amplifier and power the speakers from that.
I had a thin, small amplifier laying around that fit perfect in the cassette tray. It had 2x8W of power and was more than enough for the small speakers and cabin.


25.01.2020

I wired up the on/off switch of the cassette deck to the amplifier so I could turn it on and off.

Changed out the old 90's Pioneer speakers with JBL STAGE2 two-way speakers, but I kept the old Pioneer grille.
Had to modify them a bit to fit the tweeter, but they looked retro, and sounded amazing.


30.01.20

Pretty happy with the result, as I tried to keep the old, worn retro style, but featuring great sound quality.
The Philips cassette deck and Pioneer speakers weren't original to the car, I believe it originally had just a mono center speaker in the dashboard, and a simple radio with no cassette deck.


Here's what the dashboard looks like:

24.07.20

[ostlar]

February 2020

Winters in Norway are pretty dark and depressing, and even though the truck has four H4 bulbs, I wanted more light.

Went online and got a 32" LED-bar, I didn't want to ruin the look of the front of the vehicle, so my plan was to mount it on the roof.
In addition I went to Biltema (scandinavian hardware store) and got eight 24W LED work lights and a couple of generic roof rack kits.



06.02.20

Made the two roof racks into a rectangle rack housing all the lights. Wired the work lights up in zones: front, left, right and rear.
I also wanted to be able to easily remove the rack in case I needed to haul something that needed the roof space, so I wired up two waterproof plugs.


06.02.20


08.02.20

Light's up on the roof, now the only thing left is to have a way to control them.

The center console had a blank metal plate, not sure what it was for, but it was the perfect place for buttons.
However I did not want to ruin the metal plate by drilling 19mm holes in it, so I took a measurement of the original plate, designed a copy in 3D and printed it in black ABS.


08.01.20

I used calipers for fine measurement, but this is the only image I have of the original metal blank plate.


18.04.20

Printed with a powder coated bed (Prusa i3 MK3) so it has this rough texture, hiding the lines from the print.
Came out perfect! The four buttons on the left control the work lights in each direction, and the bottom right activates the LED bar control which turns on the LED bar when high beams are on. The top right button adds in the front work lights in the LED bar control, so I have "ditch lights" in addition to the LED bar. These are handy when driving in overgrown roads in the forest.


09.07.20

Final look, each button has its own light to signal activation. Here the front work LEDs are on. Mint!

I didn't get the buttons until april, so I had to wait a while to finish the project. They were ordered on Aliexpress.

Also, I changed out the bulbs in the speedometer which was actually original Toshiba bulbs (!) with a green filter cap on them, to orange LEDs. I like the orange look better as it is my favorite light color. I kept the original bulbs, still amazes me that they worked 34 years later.


18.02.20

[1fastcolt]

very nice I like the button location and layout of it.... and is it safe to drive the truck that fast and take pictures? LOL..

[ostlar]

very nice I like the button location and layout of it.... and is it safe to drive the truck that fast and take pictures? LOL..

Thanks! Well definitely not safe, however 80kmh is about 50mph, and on a straight highway (where these pics were taken) that's not too dangerous.

[ostlar]

August 2020

More sound!

I was missing some low-end with just the 4" door speakers, but space was limited for a regular subwoofer without sacrificing passenger space.
Thought of getting a slim subwoofer and placing it beneath the seat, but there wasn't enough space. Space behind the seat is filled with necessary tools, air compressor, fluids etc.

The solution was to mount the subwoofer up underneath the glove box. I made a plate in stainless steel, attached the subwoofer to the plate on rubber stands, and the plate to the dashboard with rubber gaskets to eliminate vibration. The reason I used stainless steel is I got my hands on some scrap from my workplace where we use 316L stainless.


01.08.20


01.08.20

Plenty of leg-space left, and the subwoofer is mounted securely.

The subwoofer I got was a generic 150W 8" slim sub with passive radiators for about $120. Pretty happy with it, and it sounds amazing. Jaws drop when people hear what it sounds like as they don't expect much from this type of car.

[ostlar]

August 2021

After a year of little to no issues or mods, the rear exhaust rusted off.


23.08.21

Made a new one with custom bends and pipes, and reused the fasteners.


25.08.21

That's about it. Welds could be better, but it's still holding together with no leaks a couple of years later.

[ostlar]

February 2023

Noticed an oil leak wherever the car was parked, and localized it to be coming from the front differential.
Specifically the left axle seal.

Ordered a new original seal and started disassembling.


15.02.23


17.02.23

The seal looked okay, but I'm sure it was due to be replaced.

Getting the new one in was a pain, it kept turning to each side and I ended up having to carefully line it up and do a proper, hard sledge hit to force it straight in at once. I used a plastic cap to distribute the force evenly.


21.02.23

Replaced upper and lower ball joint and inner and outer tie rod while I was at it.


27.02.23

[ostlar]

March 2023

Windshield started fogging up, I started smelling coolant and I noticed there was a puddle on the floor.

Heater core started leaking. Great.
The good thing about this is that it's quite easy to remove. Undo four screws on the center console, disconnect some steel wires, couple of hoses and undo four bolts on the heater core assembly. That's it, took me about 20 minutes the first time.


22.03.23


22.03.23

Getting a new heater core part, however... Such a pain. Even used ones weren't available here in Norway.
Tried our Craigslist equivalent, eBay, scrapyards, contacted my local Mitsubishi dealer, even tried to order from some american site that only allowed to sell and ship within the US, but with a shipping service as the receiver. They responded that they didn't have it in stock after all.

So the solution was to contact a Norwegian company making custom radiators, I sent them my heater core so they could take measurements, and they sent me a new one. Cost me around $400 including shipping.

[xboxrox]

Great Job ostlar & thanks for sharing...

[ostlar]

Great Job ostlar & thanks for sharing...

Thanks! Just noticed the images on the last posts wasn't uploaded properly, should be fixed now.