They're easy to do just make sure you get a alignment afterwards. If you already had it apart before to do the drop coils then it should be a breeze.
They're easy to do just make sure you get a alignment afterwards. If you already had it apart before to do the drop coils then it should be a breeze.
Got my clock installed finally, been sitting in the garage for 8 months. I also rewired my sirius radio so it's hard wired now. No more bs plug in the cig lighter. Gonna try to start on the tach cluster this week. Want to install LEDs in it before putting it in.
Got my drop spindles installed and I have a big problem. The driver side is 3/4in lower that the passenger. My tire is tucking in the fender! It's undriveable. The passenger side seems fine, may have to roll it a bit but I won't know til I figure out what's up with the driver. Are there any spacers or some kind of leveling kit for the spring? This is the second time it's dropped on the driver side. I swear I'm not that heavy!!!
I'm thinking of using a 4x4 polyurethane lift spacer. Maybe 1in? Any trucks with similar spring diameter? This is the second time it's dropped on that side but now it can't move
I still have one spare spring left from when belltech sent me new ones, gonna try putting the new one on the sagging side again. Any thoughts to why this has happened twice? I'm also thinking a out getting the 3 in drop springs, think they are from airbaggit. Anyone try these? I think part of my prob is the rear is sagging a little, that can't be the whole issue but I figure it can't hurt to put new leaf springs in
The springs are from chassis tech.
Got the chassis tech springs installed and that only helped so much. Guess the rear wasn't worn as bad as I thought or hoped at this point. The driver side is still sagging. Also replaced that front spring again with a brand new belltech spring, that didn't help at all. I'm pretty stumped right now
A lot of trucks are not perfectly even. I believe my was off by a 1/2" or so and my s10 was even worse but there know for that. What you can do is take a 1/2 coil out of the passenger side then maybe roll your fenders or get alittle smaller tires. Or you can try jamming a wedge in between the coils on the sagging side but I personally never liked to do that.
I posted this problem on the Facebook page and someone said it may be body mounts. Never thought to look at that. I'm gonna check on that tomorrow. Otherwise I'm going to raise it in the front a bit. I'm also scraping my rim on the control arm when the wheel is turned. Not sure what to do about that. I didn't know it was doing that until we raised it up after the rear suspension was done. It was tucking to much to turn it that far before
It definitely could also be your body mounts. I had to grind a little off of the front of my lca where it rubbed but now it's fine. You can also turn out the stopper in the spindle but then you lose some turning radius.
Got a pic of the stance?
A vehicle is ALWAYS going to lean to one side. One side is always heavier; theres a gas tank, driver, and steering column/box on that side. Only thing I can think of is a tiny spacer or something in the spring pocket or under spring to lift it a little.
I'll get some pics. I ordered 3/4 in poly lift bushings. They are for a wrangler so I'll see if it'll work or was a waist of $40. The truck is still out enough that it'll rub the driver side fender bad. Are there any good brands of body mount bushings that I should look into? Never got to the truck today, got stuck at work. Also, a guy on Facebook is giving me his old stock springs so if all else fails I'm going to put them on to level it out. Just gonna take a lot of time to get it right
Energy Suspension and Prothane. Neither makes body mount bushings for the Mighty Max AFAIK but you could try the Chevy S10 body mount bushings, they might work. Or you could piece one together using their universal bushings in their catalog.
Prothane makes a body mount kit - I have a set in the garage - will post the part number once I get out there and look at the box.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Truck is rolling again, still off a little bit. Passenger side is a little higher that driver. The new leaf springs seem way better and the rear looks pretty even. Can I grind a little bit off lower control arms? They rub the rim if I turn fully. I also keep seeing posts on Facebook about grinding a little out of the spring pocket so control arms don't bottom out, any reason not to do that either? Just looks like a moon shape cut on outside
Got it cleaned up after sitting so long. It's still crooked so that's annoying but I'm working on it
Looks good though. So what are you gonna do to even it out? Start with some new front springs?
I've had 2 sets of new front springs in. Not sure why it's so uneven. The back is still an inch out and the front is more. I'm at the point of possibly trimming down one of the 3in blocks to level the rear and keep trimming the front springs to get it closer. The pass side front has 1 coil cut, driver has 3/4 cut on stock springs.
Geronimo has the same lean to the drivers side - tried 3 sets of coils in front. I thought about shimming the rear with a piece of the steel stiffener between the block and the axle to level it in the rear, or use air shocks with separate lines to adjust them for each side.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Would running a 2in block on one side and 3in on other be a terrible idea? A mechanic said to shim the body up but that seems like a pain. It's that far out that 1in would level it. It's a 2in or do 3.5 block on pass and 2.5 on driver side
Ever think your weight in the vehicle is making it lean. Your all not making any less gravity on them Gluteus maximus. Or maybe a full tank a fuel can also make a truck lean some...it's around 80lbs. A battery is on left side too.
One gallon of fuel Weight in pounds
Butane 4.86
Propane 4.23
Kerosene 6.75
Gasoline 6.00
Aviation gasoline 6.46-6.99
Running two size blocks is not safe.
Measure before you started the build? There are many factors on a truck heavy on one side. Worn suspension, fender out of alignment, not being on a completely flat surface, coil springs not exactly the same..though they are the same name and part number, rear leaf spring plates are damaged, tire pressure, etc,
The first step in identifying the cause of a leaning vehicle, is to measure the extent of the problem. Tire pressure and size should be carefully checked before proceeding. Make sure all tires are the same size and the air pressure is equal, within one PSI.
A measurement can be taken with a tape measure to learn the amount the vehicle is leaning. The center of the wheel opening to the ground is a good reference.
Height can be measured in center of wheel opening
The height from the four wheel openings to the ground is measured and recorded. This should be carried out on a flat and level surface. Height variations from front to rear are normal on many vehicles. Height differences front to rear are often a part of styling and unless the appearance is unusual, are usually not a problem.
measure.gif
Side to side should not exceed half an inch or 13 MM
Differences in height, from side to side, should not exceed half an inch (13MM) and the less difference the better. If the vehicle leans more than half an inch in the front or rear, the problem is worth addressing.
The most common causes for a leaning vehicle include:
•a binding shock absorber or strut
•a bad spring or torsion bar
•bent suspension parts
•a twisted chassis
A binding shock absorber or strut will normally be felt as a very rough ride. Each corner of the vehicle should travel freely up and down when pushed with hand pressure. If one corner feels much harder than the other three, a binding shock absorber or strut might be suspected.
The shock absorber or strut can be removed for inspection if needed. Struts and shock absorbers are designed to resist motion, but not support weight. The shaft can be pushed in with hand pressure. If not, the shock or strut should be replaced, along with the one on the opposite side of the vehicle. Worn shocks and struts will not cause a vehicle to lean, unless they are also binding.
Torsion bar equipped vehicles can sometimes be leveled by an adjustment
Many vehicles are equipped with torsion bars and are adjustable. A screw type of mechanism can be adjusted to change the height of the vehicle. Often a proper adjustment of the torsion bars will level the vehicle. Having the wheel alignment set is important, whenever vehicle height is adjusted. Even very slight changes to vehicle height will drastically affect wheel alignment.
Coil springs are generally not adjustable and can also cause a vehicle to lean. Determining if the problem is caused by the front or rear spring can be difficult.
Supporting center of the rear will determine if lean is in the front or rear
measure1.gif
A good way to isolate which spring is at fault is to raise the rear wheels off the ground. The rear of the vehicle should be supported as near the center as possible. This forms a three-point mount, which is self leveling. If the vehicle is now level in the front, the problem is in the rear. The front continuing to lean, suggest the problem is more likely in the front.
Accurately testing springs can be very difficult. Swapping the springs from side to side is an option, when they are the same design. The vehicle leaning in the opposite direction after swapping suggests a bad spring.
Suspension parts and chassis measurement is a specialty, best reserved to a shop equipped to accomplish the task. If the vehicle continues to lean after the above checks, the problem is likely to be in one of these areas. A good frame and alignment shop can measure the vehicle and correct any problem in this area.
Once returned to level and properly aligned, the vehicle will be more stable, ride better and not wear tires. A leaning vehicle does not have to be tolerated.
Brad- I've replaced nearly every part on your list, thinking any of those could be the culprit. I'm on my 3rd set of springs, 2 sets of belltech drop springs and now a set of new stock springs. The shocks up front are new also. The rear has new shocks and new chassis tech leaf springs. It's dipped down on the driver side front and back. Doesn't matter if there is gas or not. I weigh about 175, if I sit in the passenger seat it hardly moves so I think the gas tank isn't the problem. I'll get a pic of the rear tonight so u can see the difference. I never checked the ride hight when it was all stock, it was alittle off but I figured that was due to it being 24years old. I'm really hoping its not the frame
Hey bob, I know the leveling issue is a problem for you and sorry to hear about it, but do you know if the frame is drooped by suspension or if the body on the frame is just lower on one side. Instead of placing offset size blocks in suspension, place blocks under the body mountings to the frame or add washers in there. This I think would be safer then changing the suspension travel or countering with a larger block.
Brad- I hadn't thought to measure to the frame and to the body. Thanks! At least I'll have a better idea where to focus my insanity. I really think its all coming from the front driver side. I went out last night and was lifting up on the front fender and just that little bit made the back almost perfect. I'm gonna have to keep playing around until I find it.
pennyman- do you know what is the reason your truck is sagging? And how far out is it?
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks