i meant tester to radio harness. brain quicker than fingers sometimes.Originally Posted by dazednconfused
i meant tester to radio harness. brain quicker than fingers sometimes.
I had 2 keyed power wires. The old radio was wired to both. That's why I couldn't save settings. It also was on the dimmer ground. All that was capped off and I ran new leads to the clock connector. Seems to be holding time and stations. Old radio was 16watts x4. New one is 50x4. Sounds way better
cant ever go wrong with pioneer. good quality and decent prices. thats all i run anymore head unit wise.
just ordered clear lenses for all the lights, the front corners only come in chrome. anyone cut them open and pop the lense out to put it in the black housing? i dont want a chrome grill. or do i get the new lenses painted?
just tape up the lense real good and scuff the chrome trim with 220 grit ....prime and paint
im looking for led panels to replace my stock bulbs in the run/brake, turns, and rev lights. anyone know a place to order panels by dimention? ive got all mesurements of each area, just cant find what im looking for. may end up making them if i cant find the panels. i did this on my motorcycle a few years ago, ill post pics to show what im looking to do
They make a LED replacement for the lamps. It can be found nearly every parts house. It can replace the 1156 and 1157 the trucks use.
1156 replacement White.
http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/9606410/
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I know there is 1156 and 1157 replacement bulbs that are led. I'm wanting to fill the entire lense with LEDs. Not just a small area. In the bike I believe there are around 100 LEDs in the tail section.
You could take apart truck lights and use them. But thats all we have.
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That is what I'm looking for!
Got my tail lenses in today, they are amazingly cheap. Nothing lines up and both of the inside screws on the right lens broke before they were half way in. Also, between the lights, they glued each part together and none of the lenses are close to being in line. Junk. Bumper ones were fine, and I got the corners in Monday, gave them to the paint shop by me, not sure when I'll see them again.
got my corners back from the paint shop, i think they look pretty good! makes the grill look real faded now, guess its on the list of stuff to do.
I can only assume I need a new alternator, any time my headlights are on, my alternator or belt starts squeeling. If I don't have the headlights on or I turn off the radio and Sirius radio, it's fine. Been driving to work in the morning with just driving lights on. I'm thinking of installing an alt from a mitsubishi wagon, saw it in a search on here the other day. It prob a good idea anyway, looking to install and amp and 2 subs soon
try tightening the belt first.
I'm pretty sure it's tight enough. I checked it and its a new belt.
I installed a 1000w kenwood amp and alpine type E 10inch sub in the truck. Sounds pretty good. Need to tune it, got dark and cold. I'll get some pics tomorrow. Asked my friend if he thought the belt was loose and he said it may be a tiny bit, he was suprised at how much it was squeeling. Gonna try to tighten it, but I think it was tight enough.
Not to sound like an ass, but you sure it's the belt and not the bearing? Just a thought, anyway. If it's the belt and it's still in good shape, get a can of belt dressing and hit it. Should fix it pretty permanently. Just adds some tack.
Christ, with that much power draw I'm surprised the engine doesn't stall... LOL
I think a miniature one of these would be cool.
PH3eGnYmWE8i6b_1_m.jpg
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So how would I check if the bearing is going bad? I really sounds like the belt. I did all the belts 500 miles ago. I'll try some belt dressing on it today. Also, with the new amp and more powerful radio, everything is dimming now. Even the screen on the radio flashes when the base hits. So I think either way I'm gonna have to put a bigger alt in.
Easy way to check bearings is shoot a little WD40 at the bearing and if the noise goes away for a few minutes you know its bad
With the amp you're running, you need a stiffening cap between the battery and the amp. This will give the amp the instantaneous power it needs - the battery cannot respond fast enough, neither can the alternator. The stock alt is only 45 amps, so you need a larger alt if you are going to change it.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
played with the gain and settings on the side of the amp, it sounds good. i need to change a few wires but it works for now, gonna clean it up when i get the right gauge. i was given the sub enclosure, is your local and want a free 10inch sub box (no sub inside) hit me up. not worth driving far and def not worth shipping. but its all there if interested.
forgot, it fits really nice, can slam the seat all the way back and no issues, and it locks in tight. i was given 2 boxes and am only using one.
that kenwood is fused for somewhere around 30-35 amps right? it may be time to upgrade the big 3, it helps alot with dimming and is needed to gain anything significant from a high output alternator. with the right wiring, alternator and battery set up there is no need for a cap.
clean truck
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