G54b head removal

[FMS88]

One casualty in removing the head was breaking off the vacuum connections on a part that screws onto the water jacket on the intake manifold near the front of the engine. They were 2 plastic connections that the vacuum lines attached too. If I can't find a replacement part, or repair this one, can someone tell me the purpose of it, and whether I should cap off these lines or connect them? I'm thinking this activates something heat related at start up. I will get a couple pictures.

It's the thermo-switch for the Mikuni's Axillary Accelerator Pump which supposedly improves drivability when the engine is cold. I disabled it long ago without noticing any issues. You can just cap the source and pump ports and install it as-is to plug the hole. If you want a good used replacement, I have extras. Just let me know.

The valve is open when cold to operate the pump. At ~100* F, it closes rendering the pump inoperable.

[fullchoke]

Thanks for that information. It sounds like I won't need it, but if for some reason I do, I'll remember you have one. I live in a moderate climate like you with normally mild winters so it sounds like another reason to leave it off. Besides that I drive easy while the engine is cold. Out of curiosity are these engines cold blooded?

[FMS88]

Never felt my truck was cold-blooded. I take it easy, too, the first 3-4 miles of city driving, which is about how long it takes to warm up to operating temps even during the cooler months.

[fullchoke]

Well I've been spraying that block coolant drain plug for days with penetrant without results, and I'm about ready to go to plan B, a syringe to lower the coolant level. I've put a lot of pressure, all I dare and a little more with a cheater on a breaker bar. I leave pressure on that plug at all times. I'm not sure if that is deemed helpful, but it hasn't worked. I think it is corroded in there permanently.

[Law Dog]

Will a suction gun hose fit in that spot?

[abeemanator]

These trucks do in fact use TTY bolts. The easiest way to tell the difference between a TTY bolt and a standard bolt, is the shank of the bolt between the head, and the first couple inches or so, and the threads will be a smaller diameter

[xboxrox]

O'Reilly's will order the new head bolts cheaper than other suppliers ~ my truck runs ok with them...

[fullchoke]

These trucks do in fact use TTY bolts. The easiest way to tell the difference between a TTY bolt and a standard bolt, is the shank of the bolt between the head, and the first couple inches or so, and the threads will be a smaller diameter

Are you referring to the G54B engine? Everything I have read about this engine says they do not use TTY bolts. I have not found when the TTY bolts were 1st used in engines. I have also seen that a TTY bolt can't be determined by sight. I have no other knowledge about these issues, so I'm asking are you sure?

Thanks

[fullchoke]

Is there a head gasket that is considered better than others? I understand they are all made in China these days, and quality is not what it was when the truck was built.
Back to head bolts...I have confirmed everywhere I looked, and in face to face conversations that TTY bolts were not used in this engine. I believe TTY bolts are put in new vehicles so that the re-torque procedure is not necessary, and head gasket failures don't surface in the longer warranty periods cars have these days. The warranty period for my truck was 1 year, or 12k miles. At what mileage should re-torquing be done? and should it be done only on a cold engine?

Thanks

[FMS88]

Search the StarQuest forum for what they currently recommend. When I replaced my cylinder head 14 years ago, the Ajusa and Fel-Pro turbo gaskets seemed most frequently mentioned and well-regarded. In addition, nearly all the info I found said to replace the head bolts. But based on your search results, looks like the concern over re-using the old ones is unwarranted and you should be fine to reuse the bolts. Interestingly, the factory service manual makes no mention of using new bolts nor does it say to use the TTY tightening procedure. Just tighten them according to the proper sequence and torque and you're good to go.
The manual states to retorque the bolts after a heat cycle, but some gasket manufactures say not to retorque or that it's unnecessary. See what's recommended for the gasket you purchase and take it under advisement.

[Law Dog]

Laminated gaskets are a lot more expensive.

[fullchoke]

The place I got the head said to make sure I re-torqued the head after 500 miles, but these gaskets labeled Permatorque insinuates not, but I think I would unless told I shouldn't do it. I'm back from camping so time to get busy on it. Thanks for the pointers!

[xboxrox]

The place I got the head said to make sure I re-torqued the head after 500 miles, but these gaskets labeled Permatorque insinuates not, but I think I would unless told I shouldn't do it. I'm back from camping so time to get busy on it. Thanks for the pointers!

(was it my FSM..?) Some document stated to re-torque the head bolts again after bringing the engine to operating temp & cool down... I think there were 3 torque steps, some 1st, max 2nd, then 3rd after engine was fully heated...

Use a valve cover gasket or oil will go everywhere <--- my bad

[SubGothius]

FWIW, here's the proper sequence for (re)torquing 4G54/G54B head bolts:

[fullchoke]

I thought I'd put some RTV on the intake manifold gasket, but thought I'd ask what you guys would do on the gaskets, if anything.
Thanks

[FMS88]

I use spray on copper-coat or a thin layer of Permatex high-tack sealant on intake, carb, water pump and other paper gaskets.

[fullchoke]

I will get some of the spray-on copper coat. Never used it, but it sounds like it's easier to use.

I transferred the valve train over to the new head, and discovered a bad hydraulic lifter/tappet. It's beat up some where it contacts the valve. Is there a better brand than another to replace it with? Is it recommended to replace them all if one goes bad? I'm looking to save a little $ here unless it's a bad idea.
Thanks

[FMS88]

I transferred the valve train over to the new head, and discovered a bad hydraulic lifter/tappet. It's beat up some where it contacts the valve. Is there a better brand than another to replace it with? Is it recommended to replace them all if one goes bad? I'm looking to save a little $ here unless it's a bad idea.

Usually all are replaced as a set. But with so few miles (42k), so replacing only the bad one should be fine. I prefer OEM, but aftermarket options are most likely manufactured by the same source so they're probably fine.
Also, check how the lifter contacts the valve stem end. The lifter should contact the stem slightly off center. If the lifter hits the stem at the edge, it could account for the wear you found and also wear on the valve stem end. If the contact isn't correct, add or remove shims/washers on the rocker rail that are between the rocker and cam shaft cap.

[fullchoke]

I didn't see anything on the old valve stem that looked like marks or damage. There were no shims or washers, only springs on the rail shaft.

Should the lifters be pumped up with oil before installation, and if so how long will they hold oil? The installation instructions call for that, and if so my installation procedure would possibly need to change depending on how long they hold pressure. None were pressurized when I removed them.

Thanks

[FMS88]

Hard to explain why the one lifter was so worn, but with the new head and lifter, the cause should be eliminated. Priming the lifters is recommended. It won’t fully pressurize them, but it will reduce the time it takes for the engine to do so. They’ll be noisy at first, but the lifters will quiet down soon after start up.