Clearwater cylinder head

[xboxrox]

My 1986 PowerRam50 has either a blown head gasket or cracked cylinder head ~ this thread is about the fix...

https://www.cylinder-heads.com/


Purchased a new non Jet Valve cylinder head from Clearwater Cylinder Head Inc. in Florida PART# MIT 108N
(These heads are Made in China with better alloy & thicker area between valve seats and no Jet Valves ~ to minimize cracking ~ the 5 year unlimited mileage warranty is void if the MELTSTAB on the head is melted ~ melt temp is 255F)

NOTE: Kevin West at Clearwater searched the shop & found two hydraulic valve train assemblies so he was able to provide me with a hydraulic valve train which I was hoping for... These Starion/Conquest/Ram50 heads are supplied from China with solid lifters which require valve lash adjustment at least once a year or 10k miles...

Purchased new head bolts & a complete head gasket set from O'Reilly's Auto Parts...

My friend Vernon, a local self made mechanic, said he will do the repair before Christmas YEAH

Mighty Ram50 member FMS88 has been helping by posting answers to my questions THANKS FMS

FMS88 informed me (and Clearwater verified) that all 16 of the manifold nuts are 8 x 1.25mm size ~ O'Reilly's has manifold nuts, maybe they have em..? Will walk over to Kailua O'Reilly's today to pickup the head bolts, gasket set and ask about the nuts...

More Later...

[FMS88]

I'm curious to know where they affixed the melt tab. Also, give it a good visual inspection to be sure nothing looks amiss.

[xboxrox]

I'm curious to know where they affixed the melt tab. Also, give it a good visual inspection to be sure nothing looks amiss.

Yikes..! I never really gave doing this QA stuff much thought ~ I loaded the new head into the truck bed and am just waiting for my mechanic friend (Vernon) to contact me to bring the truck to his friend's house (a two minute drive from my apt ~ will drive the truck there ~ getting the tow truck is somewhat of a hassle & often takes hours or even overnight into the next day ~ some things in Hawaii are not rushed yada yada I don't wanna speak racist etc...) anyway, I am aware these Chinese heads often are not cleaned well & are contaminated with metal shavings ~ also, the complete head gasket set contains a few cam seal & other seal things which might already be installed in the new head (??) I am 100% never done this before ignorant as all heck & not sure what to check ~ but, perhaps I should open the box and at least look at the head before Vernon takes charge of the job (I trust Vernon but I think he prioritizes speed & takes pride in how fast he gets a job done) I want to ask him to look for what caused the coolant leak coming out of the tailpipe and blowing pressure into the radiator and not just slap things back together ~ I will ask him to save the old head gasket and any fasteners for me to look at to diagnose what caused the problem ~ any engine block problems won't be solved or fixed forever by installing a new cylinder head (?) I also will ask Vernon to use the long EGR passage flexible shaft drill tool I have to probe and inspect the intake manifold EGR passage leading to the carburetor while things are disassembled...

So FMS to answer your Melt Tab question; I will have to open the box and look or phone Clearwater for the answer because after Vernon takes it away there is no telling what might become of any melt tab..!

Thanks for helping me think my friend & hope you're keeping toasty warm up there in the great Northwest

[xboxrox]

OK, I brought the head back up to my penthouse (ha) and did an inspection; it looks clean no metal shavings, the rear cam seal is not installed (that seal is listed in the contents of the head gasket set, hope no special tools or supplies are needed to install it, hope Vernon knows how to install it..?) the valve train is hydraulic like I wanted, new valves, new valve stem seals, new valve springs, the cam has a few scratches all around each lobe, hope the cam lasts many miles [should a new cam have scratches..?] I think not but it's not a racing engine... the head looks to be the correct part ~ not sure if any bolts have been torqued to spec (probably?) it came with 26 threaded studs for the 26 threaded holes in the head; I threaded one stud into the head and it went in easily by hand (the short thread end of stud)

Anyway FMS the melt tabs appear to be nothing more than purple colored temp stick markings much like the ones we used as welders; there is one mark on each end of the head front & back a purple color ~ if the head overheats the range of the temp marking then those marks with either melt off or change color which voids the five year unlimited miles warranty...

I should do a YouTube review of "M28 cylinder head" ~ think I saw a Starion M59 head video that basically shows the improvements over the original stock head (more/bigger water jackets, jet valves, etc., blah, blah..?)

So here are some photos: (please forgive if too large or too small...)

[xboxrox]

THE HEAD ASSY I RECEIVED HAS SEVERAL VERY NOTICEABLE SCRATCHES ALL AROUND EACH CAM LOBE SURFACE

Chinese Head see the 14 questions from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/CIFIC-Mitsubi.../dp/B00TQ8BL14

QUESTION: is this head 100% complete needs nothing ? fits a 2.6l G54B ? ram 50 4x4 . any reclamations for install and valve lash adjustments.

ANSWER: It is 100% complete but you will have to adjust the Valves. I also found the camshaft was of inferior material and was being worn down in a short space of time. I used my old genuine camshaft and no issues so far after that.
By walter_b on January 21, 2021

My thoughts on the camshaft scratches:

IMHO there should not be any scratches on a new piece of polished & machined & lubricated surface, none of the other parts have scratches ~ I once bought and installed an Iskadarian (sp?) 3/4 race cam into the 272 cu in Ford V8 engine of my 1955 Ford Fairlane 2dr sedan and there were no scratches on those lobes...

Well, how much of a pain is it to change cams (?) must the valve spring retainers be disassembled, etc..? CRUD any thoughts about me asking Vernon to install my old original cam into the new cylinder head assembly..?

Just checked with Jason at Mitsubishi Parts Central @ Don Herring Mitsubishi in Dallas, TX 1-469-507-2505 new G54B Mitsubishi hydraulic camshaft is part# MD 077306 and over $600.00 something dollars plus plus and NOT AVAILABLE in the USA system of Mitsubishi parts ~ am not gonna contact Amayama Meta or anyone else it's too expensive..! Hope my original cam is not too worn and that Vernon will be willing & able to change out the cams...

FMS what was your tip on using some kinda gloves or rubber finger tip thingies or rubber bands to remove or replace cam..?

Happy Christmas ~ George

[FMS88]

Thanks for the pic of the Melt Tab. Makes sense to attach it to the freeze plug on the rear of the head. The head looks good and wise of you to look it over very carefully. It's hard to say if the scratches on the lobes are an issue, but Vernon should be able to give his opinion. He can also examine the original cam and help decide if using the original is the better choice. Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to use the original if it's in good shape and the scratches on the new cam are severe. I've also read that the stock cams are metallurgically superior to aftermarket cams.

Regarding the gasket kit, it's contents are applicable to multiple vehicles and years with the G54b engine. So it will have some pieces that don't apply to your engine such as the camshaft seals. Your truck has no cam seal, but it does have a circular packing (plug) at the rear end of the cam above the freeze plug with the melt tab. The packing is not included in the gasket kit, but you can use the original which is held in place by the rear cam tower. (In the picture of your new head the packing goes in the hole above the freeze plug.) Use gasket sealer on the original packing, or you can get a new one here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/33381208130...Bk9SR_6StsGnYQ

Other than the cam packing, I can't think of anything that's not in the gasket kit or any reason to doubt the head isn't otherwise 100% complete. To install the packing you only need to R&I the rear cam tower, but to swap cams, all towers must come off. (On reassembly, use cam lube if the journals & lobes look dry.) You don't have to touch the valves and springs. Just use the glove finger tips over the rocker ends to keep the hydraulic lifters from falling out. Makes removing the rocker assembly a lot easier. Since you have hydraulic lifters, just ignore the instruction to adjust valves. I don't think the paint marks are relevant.

I think I covered your questions, but if you think of more, just ask. And, if your going to drive it at all, choose a route you can coast down should one exist. The less the engine runs, the better.

[xboxrox]

Look @ time 25:20 in the referenced BRAIN SURGEON video (fire rings)
Look @ time 5:15 in the referenced SANTA YouTube video (fire rings)
Look @ times :25 and 7:15 in the referenced SANTA YouTube video (intake manifold bolt that could not be reached in the engine compartment)

1) I will check my FELPRO head gasket to ensure it has joined fire rings on at least one side...

2) Should (for ease) the intake manifold stay bolted to the head until the assembly is removed from the engine compartment..?

3) Do I need to use any sealer or gasket spray anywhere besides IF reusing the old camshaft plug..?

4) O'Reilly's had the camshaft plug $6.00 total shipped from mainland arrives 12/28 and ebay seller not willing to ship to Hawaii... Thanks to FMS88 I was able to show O'Reilly's which plug matched this photo...

5) Per FMS88 tips, I bought the fingertip covers to use as valve lifter holders (for removing rockers/cam from head)



References

BRAIN SURGEON DOES HEAD GASKET REPLACEMENT: https://youtu.be/06l5jHMZt0Y
SANTA LOOK-A-LIKE REMOVES & REPLACES RAM50 CYLINDER HEAD: https://youtu.be/nZPjJuDdUxs

[FMS88]

First a correction to my earlier post: It isn't possible to remove only the rear cam tower to install the cam plug. You have to loosen considerably all cam tower bolts. So might be just as well to loosen them until free, install the finger tip lifter retainers and then lift off the towers and rocker assembly all together. Then you can easily inspect the cam lobes.

The finger cots should work but they're latex which doesn't resist oil as well as nitrile. As Subgothius suggested in another post, just cut the finger tips off some disposable nitrile-rubber gloves.

Question #1. I have a stock head gasket that looks like Santa's. Not certain about the Fel-pro, but I bet it does too.
#2. You're right, a couple intake manifold nuts are hard to reach. Removing and installing the head and manifold together is a solution, but they can be a bit unwieldy and heavy.
#3. If you get a new plug, gasket sealer is optional. The plug has a coating that compresses and seals so additional sealer isn't necessary. If using the old plug, sealer is recommended. I use Permatex, but a little RTV will work too.
#4. When installing the plug align it's open edge with the edge of its bore in the head. This should leave a gap of 1/4 to 3/8" between the plug and the end of the cam as in the photo below:



After the installation of the cam tower, the plug looks like this:



With the rocker assembly removed, check and clean the bottoms of the bolt holes for metal shavings. I found a fair amount of them in each hole on my head.

Other than the cam plug, the only other places to apply sealer are where the top of the timing chain case and block meet (apply it before placing the head gasket on the block); to the contact surfaces of the semi-circular plug; and the inside corners of the rear cam tower. Do the latter two applications when installing the valve cover. Those are the only places I can think of at the moment.

[xboxrox]

FMS88 you are to be commended for supporting this thread & my truck getting back on the road..!

I just sent Vernon screen shots of your photos & post..!

Vernon and I inspected the Felpro head gasket today and it does have joined fire rings on one side..!

Thank You My Kind Friend
George

[xboxrox]

O'Reilly's received the rear cam plug ($6.00 total shipped, great deal) & guessing it goes in rubber side in first ??? As shown in these photos...

[FMS88]

Six bucks is a good price.

Here's the FSM installation step for the circular packing:


The open end is installed toward the cam if the cam tower/cap was removed and is now being installed. I think Fel-Pro wants the plug in the opposite direction because they're assuming you haven't removed the cam tower and will be driving it into opening. With the open end to the rear and the chamfered end toward the cam, it should be much like installing a freeze plug. I've always installed the plug after removing the cam towers, but I think the Fel-Pro directions will work too if you leave the cam tower in place.

Whichever approach your take, apply a little sealer to the inner third of the packing. Notice that it has a slightly smaller diameter than the other front and rear thirds. That and the coating on the plug should create a good seal. Fel-Pro's instruction to apply RTV around the outer edge of the plug is for extra measure.

[xboxrox]

FMS you're a really swell guy; thanks for answering another question for me (cam plug) My newest concern is camshaft softness & reusing my existing cam in the new China cylinder head (an Amazon reviewer did this...)


My only engine photo showing the valve train, only the fuel pump cam lobe is showing..! The photo proves my engine has a hydraulic valve train; 135,800 miles now... I better measure Chinese cam journals compared to my existing cam (size matters..?)

TODAY: googled about camshafts; I will try reuse my original cam since the engine ran pretty fair before head/head gasket problem-oh...)

YouTube video https://youtu.be/PhyVb0dFK5c @ 6:22 (starts hardness testing of a typical Chinese camshaft & the results are not good...)

Not trying to bash Top End Performance: https://www.racetep.com/ but spoke with Steve there today and he said their cam billets are from either Turkey (very bad soft) OR mainland China (so so) or Taiwan (pretty good) when I asked about warranty he said he would not sell me a cam because I would blame their cam as the source of any future problem my engine might have..! Steve did confirm that these heads do not use cam bearings... Kevin at Clearwater said all these heads come from China & assuming since the cam is included it is also from China...

This [nice older guy] will regrind a stock cam for $250.00: https://elgincams.com/info/

Camshaft interchange part #s: https://www.yoyopart.com/oem/1228902...-md077306.html

Using the yoyo interchange info page; I phoned most of the companies selling these cams & NO body except Jegs Performance sells a cam for 1986 Mighty Max: (Melling cam with .040" over journals) Melling 1-800-635-5464 maybe they can answer if their cams are Made in China..? How does .040" over size jive with my fix..?
https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchResultsPageCmd?q=camshaft&storeId=10001&cata logId=10002&langId=-1&year=1986&make=MITSUBISHI&model=MIGHTY%2BMAX&sub model=BASE&engine=L4%2B%28%2B2.6L%2B%2F%2B156%2B%2 9

[xboxrox]

CLEANING PISTON TOPS:

Might it be safe & feasible to use a block of wood on the block and a short pipe or round bar passed through the cam sprocket to lift it off the sprocket bracket holder in order to rotate the engine to get all the pistons at the top for carbon cleaning them..? Gotta ensure the #1 piston gets back to compression TDC...

[FMS88]

Regarding the cam, I wouldn't hesitate to use your original cam if it checks out. To be sure you can use it, remove both cams and measure their journal diameters. If the same, the original will work. Next, inspect the original cam looking for scoring of the journals and pitting or ridges worn on the lobes. Lastly, measure the lobes' height (diameter at the lobe peak). If the heights are uniform and there's no obvious wear, you're good to go. With the miles on your engine, I bet the cam will check out fine.
As to cleaning the piston tops, I wouldn't bother and would avoid turning the crank with the head off. The chain could slip off the crank pulley and then you have a bigger problem than a little carbon on the piston tops. Once it's back together and running, use the age-old water method described in post #2 of this blog:
https://www.chevelles.com/threads/be...istons.287355/
I bet Vernon's familiar with it.

[xboxrox]

I am smelling sage Vernon has been silent about our job he accepted to finish before Christmas ~ tomorrow I plan to phone Kaneohe Marine Base Five O Motors mgr Chad to see if he can free up an outdoor covered stall for doing fixes that can take a while ~ if yes then my auto insurance co. has said no problem towing your truck with my full coverage ~ I would have to do this job with staff help 'n tools and wife's help on weekend ~ these stalls are $10.00 a 24hr day


Cleaning carbon with fire: http://https://youtu.be/g_78_MNvhy4

[FMS88]

I am smelling sage Vernon has been silent about our job he accepted to finish before Christmas ~ tomorrow I plan to phone Kaneohe Marine Base Five O Motors mgr Chad to see if he can free up an outdoor covered stall for doing fixes that can take a while ~ if yes then my auto insurance co. has said no problem towing your truck with my full coverage ~ I would have to do this job with staff help 'n tools and wife's help on weekend ~ these stalls are $10.00 a 24hr day.

Looks like a good plan if Vernon doesn't come through. I think you could do it if you take your time, follow the Haynes manual, have your wife and others around to assist, and have the basic wrenches and sockets available. The only special tool needed is a torque wrench.
While you sort things out, install the 20 or so exhaust and intake manifold studs in the new head. Use the two nut method shown in this U-tube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qYKMtb3Jpo
Install the shorter threaded end into the head and torque the studs to 15 ft/lbs. It's easier when the head is off and will save you or Vernon shop time. If the new head didn't come with studs for the fuel pump, use ones intended for the exhaust manifold. Then they'll be in place if you choose to bolt the intake manifold to the head and install them together on the block. Later, just remove a couple studs from the old head to use as the "missing" exhaust studs.
Lastly, remove a cam tower/cap bolt and shoot a blast of canned air at the bottom of the bolt hole to clean out any metal shavings lurking in the hole. Then reinstall the bolt. Do one bolt hole at a time and you won't have to worry about the hydraulic adjusters falling out of the rockers. Save that for when you decide which cam to use.

[xboxrox]

Looks like a good plan if Vernon doesn't come through. I think you could do it if you take your time, follow the Haynes manual, have your wife and others around to assist, and have the basic wrenches and sockets available. The only special tool needed is a torque wrench.
While you sort things out, install the 20 or so exhaust and intake manifold studs in the new head. Use the two nut method shown in this U-tube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qYKMtb3Jpo
Install the shorter threaded end into the head and torque the studs to 15 ft/lbs. It's easier when the head is off and will save you or Vernon shop time. If the new head didn't come with studs for the fuel pump, use ones intended for the exhaust manifold. Then they'll be in place if you choose to bolt the intake manifold to the head and install them together on the block. Later, just remove a couple studs from the old head to use as the "missing" exhaust studs.
Lastly, remove a cam tower/cap bolt and shoot a blast of canned air at the bottom of the bolt hole to clean out any metal shavings lurking in the hole. Then reinstall the bolt. Do one bolt hole at a time and you won't have to worry about the hydraulic adjusters falling out of the rockers. Save that for when you decide which cam to use.

FMS kudos for your clever advice, especially the metal chips & stud install info..! (all 26 Chinese studs identical)

HERE IS THE LATEST:

Phoned Five O Motors (no luck, no stalls & no manager until sometime next week) later today will text Vernon to ask when/if he can do the job...

Watched this YouTube video (test & compare USA and Chinese valve springs): https://youtu.be/DMFikj-TAqo
I phoned Powel Machine Inc. spoke with Daniel (the guy in the video) he said reuse your entire Mitsubishi rocker arm assemblies, hydraulic lifters and camshaft BUT do use the new Chinese valves and springs..! He said the Chinese rocker arms are soft metal too and will wear quickly on the end that touches the cam lobe... His forklift has the G54B engine so although they do not sell any parts for our trucks he is well aware of this engines characteristics...

Emailed Amayama waiting for their reply; asked if they have 1 ea MD077306 camshaft available, in stock, and shipping time to Hawaii USA just in case; their price the cheapest $411.00 and $43.00 shipping... OMG

Well, all in all the BIG PICTURE is coming into place for using a Chinese cylinder head...

[FMS88]

They gave you more studs than you're likely to need, so install all the intake, exhaust and fuel pump studs you need as well as the one for the distributor. If you don't have A/C, you'll have a few extra.

Don't buy a new camshaft. It's most unlikely your original cam will have any issues. But even if it has a questionable lobe, use it until you find a new or good used cam for a decent price. Camshafts are easy to change later.

If the rockers are doubtful and you want to use your originals, you can swap them, but use the Chinese cam caps and rocker rails. Page 2A-5 in the Haynes manual has a good illustration and the steps to disassemble and reassemble the rocker assembly. Be sure to use the Chinese cam caps. They're machined with the head so they mate and align perfectly. Your original caps may not if you try to use them.

Disassemble the assemblies starting at the rear (#4) end. Pull the bolts out of the cam caps and the caps will slide off followed by the rockers, springs and any washers. Keep everything in order of removal. Don't remove the rails from the front Chinese cap (#1). Reassemble the Chinese rails using your original rockers, springs and washers and the Chinese cam caps. Use the Haynes manual to guide you.

After it's all together, install it on the head and tighten the cam cap bolts until the caps seat. Look closely at how the hydraulic lash adjusters contact the valve stem top. If any adjusters are contacting the edge of the stem top, you'll need disassemble the rocker rails and insert a washer to move the rocker so the contact point is more to the center of the valve stem top. Hopefully the Chinese head has been manufactured to stock specs, so the rocker-valve stem alignment will be correct.

[xboxrox]

Vernon no show & Five O Motors is closed Sun Mon Tue this next week ~ so no wrenching till Wednesday or Thursday or ? next year

Technical Instructions FMS88

HAPPY NEW YEAR

[xboxrox]

The new cylinder cylinder head is installed; might wrap it up & get the truck running tomorrow ~ will install a new thermostat too...
Details in next post...

George

[FMS88]

Excellent! Which cam and rocker assembly did you use?

[xboxrox]

Excellent! Which cam and rocker assembly did you use?

For quicker & easier installation I used the entire cylinder head assembly that Clearwater provided but I kept my original cam (well the old cam that was in the old head/who knows if it was the real 1986 original cam from Japan when the truck was built new?) Anyway we got the sucker running but only after removing the distributor and moving the rotor one gear tooth advanced / after that she started right up) Got lifter ticking noise but hope it will subside with time & by setting the timing at idle to 7° BTDC the idle RPM decreased (a good thing it's about normal now but the carb needs adusting for a smoother idle (wished I knew carb adjustment methods) It seems as though there is a slight intermitent miss but at WOT there seems to be a tad more power ~ the truck sat for about 2 months ~ I just tested my original Mitsubishi thermostat and it opens as should not stuck closed ~ so it musta been enough crack between the valves that caused coolant to be blown out of the radiator and blow coolant out of the overflow tank ~ I phoned Kevin West at Clearwater for him to help me decide to use the Chinese valve train and cam or switch everything cam 'n rockers from my old head ~ he said that because I asked for a hydraulic valve train the rockers etc that I got are NOT made in China ~ he said the cam was Chinese and is covered in the 5 year warranty if it goes bad he will send a free replacement cam ~ what he said made me decide to use the entire assembly from China which made the job go quicker AND now the Chinese cam will be tested in our grocery getter truck ~ lottsa blah blah I'm tired but the job is done and the truck is running again..! Photo later ;^)
Aloha & Thanks
George

[FMS88]

Nice work. Glad to see you got it running again. I understand about using the entire Clearwater set up, but save your original cam and rocker assembly if you still have it. Try a ZDDP additive. It’s intended for engines with slipper rockers like ours. Might extend the life of the Chinese cam. The ticking should quiet down quickly. Enjoy the fruits of your labor.

Were you able to determine if it was the head or head gasket that failed?

[xboxrox]

Nice work. Glad to see you got it running again. I understand about using the entire Clearwater set up, but save your original cam and rocker assembly if you still have it. Try a ZDDP additive. It’s intended for engines with slipper rockers like ours. Might extend the life of the Chinese cam. The ticking should quiet down quickly. Enjoy the fruits of your labor.

Were you able to determine if it was the head or head gasket that failed?

PHOTOS HERE (MORE COMING) http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...hp?albumid=653

FMS can't be certain what was the major cause of the problem but most likely cracks in the old cylinder head ~ the old head gasket looked fairly ok & the old thermostat tested ok in boiling water it opened fine...

I hit the MR50 20 photos per day upload limit so just wait more photos are coming... Yes we did add a pint of zinc additive but I only kept the old camshaft all else was tossed in a metal recycling container... Kevin West said: "because the truck is not being raced and that because I asked for a hydraulic valve train, the rocker arms he sent are NOT Chinese and he recommended keeping the old cam and the Chinese cam is included in the 5 year unlimited miles warranty" (providing the temperature marks do not indicate the head overheated which voids the warranty...)

Kevin's remarks, my laziness & time constrains, cost of the work stalls and excessive wear on the old valve train helped me to make the command decision to install the complete head as sent to me from Clearwater and avoid learning anything new :^)

I'm glad the carburetor, fuel pump & fuel hoses were previously replaced which gave me the confidence to just tie them back out of the way and not disassemble the rats nest ~ both manifolds were tied back too + I had two US Marines that helped me remove & install the cylinder heads..! Got the job done in less than three full days ;^)

The engine feels more snappy & well connected to the accelerator it especially has a stronger compression braking when letting off the gas pedal (no extra horsepower in the butt-o-meter tho)... I tossed the old rocker/lifter valve train as it was well worn only 3 lifters looked ok the others way worn...

There is sometimes an intermittent engine miss not always the same, slight lack of power at low RPM or an actual slight bucking feel miss when accelerating & sometimes no miss at all... The engine idles rougher than before but the idle came down some when setting ignition timing (a good thing) I am certain the carburetor needs air fuel needle and other adjustments (the California tamper plug is still in the carburetor body) and since I bored out the carbon in the intake manifold EGR passage from the head towards the carb 'n EGR valve there may be carbon crud up against the EGR (I need to remove clean inspect the EGR...) I got my 1st of two shingles vaccinations yesterday & am taking Tylenol to fight the flu like chills 'n body aches... Will now try uploading a few more photos in my Clearwater photo album...

Many thanks to FMS88 and geezer too and everyone who offered me advice & motivation to get er done..!

A few photos before leaving:

[FMS88]

Kevin's remarks, my laziness & time constrains, cost of the work stalls and excessive wear on the old valve train helped me to make the command decision to install the complete head as sent to me from Clearwater and avoid learning anything new :^)

There's a lot to be said for expediency. Probably worth it to clean the other EGR passages in case their obstruction is contributing to the minor drivability issues. Also, if the head gasket manufacturer recommends it, check the head bolt torque after a few hundred miles. Otherwise, all looks good. Well done.