1988 Ram50 Sport - wheel alignment

[da-fox]

I own a 1988 Dodge Ram50 Sport.... slowly rebuilding it but lately its been nothing but a major pain in the b*tt..!!

When I purchased the truck, it never drove really good. Bushings and stuff was worn out... but it drove not too horrible.
Felt like the tires were always a little too open (toe) tho and it would chew thru tires real quick.

Took the opportunity to order all new 4 suspension arms, balljoints, tie-rods, etc, etc.

I've replaced everything, but when I tried to align it the best I could... everytime I would take it out of the shop, the front end would pinch itself and one wheel would literally say f*ck you to the other one. I've spent hours trying to see what was wrong until I sent it to a local shop with an aligement machine.

They spend a good while trying, couldnt put it right. The wheels would do whatever after being set straight when driving forward but would usually go back to normal when driving in reverse.
Time goes by, they noticed that the brackets that holds the strut rod of the lower arms are degraded and chewed a bit inside, making the rod wobbly and loose.
They managed to weld another piece/large washer in to limit movement.
Finally, they get it in specs...but its still not quite right...

If I drive around 60-80 KMh (canada), the tires will start screaming a bit but its wayyyyy worse when turning.
At this point, I dont know what to do anymore or what could be the problem. I'm still waiting to go back to the other shop to ask them if they set up the caster properly as well since I forgot to do it right when I first installed the top arms. I know its annoying to have to unbolt them to turn the shaft to ajust caster.... but would caster cause this much of problems?
From the alignment report (id have to go get it in the car to have the real numbers) it was in red before and after.
It doesnt really pull much to one side or another, maybe a bit more on really uneven roads but its so short wheelbase too its hard to tell.

Camber is set fairly right, same for toe. But it looks like the wheels are still pinching on themselved still when driving forward.
I was told aftermarkets arms were way softer then OEM but still... I dont think it should drive this horribly.

It there something else I should check? body and frame is spotless and straight.
Its almost worst now with all the new stuff than before (only almost haha)

I'm really hoping caster is just way wrong and its the only problem but... I dont know. I'd have to unbolt them and measure them if they're in specs with what I find in the manuals but even then its kind of annoying to read, its a bit out of my specialty.

Anyone else had somewhat major headache doing wheel alignements on their trucks?

I'll try to include pics and stuff ASAP

[xboxrox]

Tires round like new?
Tire/wheel balance?
Idler arm replaced?
Pitman arm slop?
Shocks good?
Try rotating front wheels to the rear & bring rear wheels to opposite front sides (helps prevent tire cupping)
Maybe a shop will give you a written guarantee of perfection & 100% satisfaction of their work OR you get a full refund $? Without time limits...

Others here have experience, hope they will post advice... Best of Luck

[da-fox]

Currently on my lunch break but called the shop back. turns out they never ajusted the top control arms like I asked them to at least check since I didnt ajust them when replacing (forgot). theyll take it back next week
hope its mostly that, i dont expect perfection but at least for it to run better than that with everything new.
right now caster is too forward.
other than that pitman is new, tierods, idler arm fine, tires already rotated, not perfect but more than good enough, shocks arent too old and good too. its really that little bit about the front sorta pinching itself when going forward thats weird but again if they didnt play enough with the caster it might just be that. will see more next week.
the more i work on it the more i wanna sell it hahaha

[da-fox]

From what I understand, right now, my truck has negative caster (leaning forward) and best would be more on the positive caster (towards the rear) from what I can see online and most places??

I see for caster you can rotate the shaft of the upper control arm.....but maybe also use shims to shim front or rear bolt.
Yes in the manual, I see some specific measurement for "centering" the arm...
What would be best? do a few test with just trying shims, or try to turn the shaft and do multiple tests with that too?
Its a long week-end, I have access to the shop I work at and would love to try a few things before dropping it back to the other shop that try to do the alignment and see if its at least better to shove it in their face a little.
I really want the thing to be somewhat driveable. >_<

[da-fox]

Welp finally found the alignment report.
Turns out caster is in the positive afterall.
a bit more than specs but i dont think it would cause that much problems?
Ill have to do more tests too but seems like its not as bad when I have a passenger!???

[camoit]

If you have a GoPro. Stick it under it and film everything as you drive forward and backwards. Then you can see what’s moving.
many times shops don’t know to put the pitman arm in the center before making an alignment. Then you do the alignment and finish by removing the steering wheel and making it straight.