This is going to be my second build thread. My first build thread was on mightyd5o, and a picture thread was made in rememberance on the old mightyram50.
I had my head at the shop for the past month and was finished with the machine work shortly after I gave them the head. All I was waiting on was the arp exhaust manifold studs that have yet to come in still. The head was reconditioned and resurfaced. Webcams 546/547 grind are coming off after I send the oem cams and cam gears ack to the machine shop to have the surface rust taken care of.
The block was special ordered from maperformance or mordern automotive performance as a stage one 6 bolt eclipse shortbloc. Mahle pistons 9.0:1 compression with eagle rods, Balance shaft eliminated with a brand new oem oil pump and front case.
Total spent so far, 3150 for the short block, 680 for the headwork without the arp studs, maybe 150 in gaskets.
First picture shows the old eclipse block on my engine stand, also how late I stayed working on it today. Lol. I already swapped timing components and removed the oil pan. Second picture shows before I started swaping parts, and how bright and sunny it was. Third pic is a little blury, I'm sorry about, but it shows how far it was put together. Fourth pic shows the carnage of the rod cap, and tiny metal pieces. The reason I bought a new shortblock to begin with. Last pic shows how clean the new shortblock was before I started.
Still to do, Send the oem cams and cam gears to be cleaned up. I already have a new waterpump gasket and new oil filter housing gasket but I need to buy a new waterpump and decide on the mightymax oil filter housing without the oil cooler or the eclipse oil filter hoising with an air cooled oil cooler. Also need to buy a new oil pickup gasket unless I can use one of my spare oil return gaskets. Smaller, but looks close enough. And assemble head to block.
What are they gonna do to the cams to clean them? Sonic clean? Whenever I have seen surface rust on engine parts that is not deep and pitted I always use PB Blaster. You can just wipe the rust off with a damp rag.
From what I was told by members on dsmtuners, use mineral oil or mineral spirits and a green Scott Brite pad. the gut at the machine shop showed me this bottle I can pickup from from home depot, it's a metal polish. Use with a clean rag. The polish has to be cleaned off thoroughly before use or will cause catastrophe engine failure when the polish starts moving around. I just asked how long they would take and how much it was, they said same day service with only $35~ charge. Sounds pretty close to the cost of supplies to me so they can do it. Sandblast and hot tank I believe. Or solvent tank. As long as they don't destroy my new engine, I'm satisfied.
that sounds like a good deal...i would go with it...pb blaster has been what i always used..my dad and grandpa always did it that way or with some other stuff. I cant remember the name though
Completely forgot about this thread until now. Dyno today said I make peak 170rwhp and 212rwtq.
Current mod list: 91 4g63 block, acl race bearings, malhe 9.0 pistons, eagle rods, balance shaft delete, rebuilt same head to factory thread, intrepid coil over plug, evo 8 560 injectors, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, front mount intercooler, greddy type s blow off valve, gm maf, maft, apexi avcr set at 1 bar, max speed exhaust, dsmlink v3 light, evo 8 modified fuel and spark map.
Disapointed with the dyno because I now know I make wheel horsepower what the integra gsr supposed to make at the crank. but I do experience a sputter around 5k rpm. So I gotta work on tuning. Lol.
Yep factory ratings are at the flywheel, so if you are pulling 170 rwhp that's roughly around 200-210 at the flywheel.Just keep playing with it and you will probably find some small stuff that needs to be changed or not quite set up right. Friend of mine had Omni GLH that he did a crap load of work to and found a small leak in the BOV reducing his boost, cleaned and reset the BOV and he pulled another 52whp.Its the stupid little things like that that cause problems you are unaware of.
210 was the 2g dsm, 190 was the 1g I remember. The 2g had the t25 turbo but the boost solenoid pushed more boost out of it to compensate. Also more compression. Gonna figure out things this or next week. Don't wanna keep tossing parts at it. Got the gm maf not only because it's like an upgrade to the 1g maf and performs same if not better then the 2g maf, but at 1.3 bar the truck hesitates and bogs after 4k rpm. Figuring maf is maxed out because runs no problem at wastegate pressure at 8 psi.
Bar is the settings on the avcr boost controller, reason for me using bar for boost. And everyone should know 1 bar is pretty much 15 psi. Lol.
True. But boost controller set at 1.3 bar, air fuel at 10:1 and cannot go above 4.3k. 19psi for thoughs who don't want to do the math. Lol. Runs fine through redline at only wastegate pressure. Plus the stumbling when pushing the clutch to idle between gears was a little irritating. So blow through setup fixes it. I'll start by adjusting fuel pressure at the fuel rail confirming fuel pressure no vac is correct. When I have the time.
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but I do experience a sputter around 5k rpm. So I gotta work on tuning. Lol.
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