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Thread: Cleaning stock Mikuni carb

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  1. #1

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    6,059
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    You can try to plug the small vacuum ports in the mixture control valves with something temporary like adhesive wall tack (stuff kids use to put posters up on their walls) and start it to see if the mixture valve is the issue. Not being complete can (and probably is..) causing internal vacuum circuit issues. Unfortunately this is the sort of thing you're going to be up against when someone who doesn't know what they're doing monkeys around in an engine bay. Could be the fuel pump set up, blockage in the carb or fuel lines, failing ICM in the distributor, bad coil and ballast...

    To test the theory of no fuel, get a clean kitchen sponge that is big enough to cover the throats of the carb (one without the scotchbrite pad stuck to one side) rinse it in fuel, wring out the excess and hold it down over the carb while starting it (do not open throttle). There will be enough fuel vapour in it to run for at least 15-20 seconds. Safer than tipping or spraying raw fuel down the throats and no risk of accidentally flooding the carb and intake with an overdose of fuel.

  2. #2

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-12-2022
    Posts
    19
    Location

    Florida
    Vehicle

    1989 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G63B
    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    You can try to plug the small vacuum ports in the mixture control valves with something temporary like adhesive wall tack (stuff kids use to put posters up on their walls) and start it to see if the mixture valve is the issue. Not being complete can (and probably is..) causing internal vacuum circuit issues. Unfortunately this is the sort of thing you're going to be up against when someone who doesn't know what they're doing monkeys around in an engine bay. Could be the fuel pump set up, blockage in the carb or fuel lines, failing ICM in the distributor, bad coil and ballast...

    To test the theory of no fuel, get a clean kitchen sponge that is big enough to cover the throats of the carb (one without the scotchbrite pad stuck to one side) rinse it in fuel, wring out the excess and hold it down over the carb while starting it (do not open throttle). There will be enough fuel vapour in it to run for at least 15-20 seconds. Safer than tipping or spraying raw fuel down the throats and no risk of accidentally flooding the carb and intake with an overdose of fuel.
    Once my Talon sells and I have more money to put into the truck, I will order the new carb and follow the instructions on here for converting to a Webber carb. I know for 100% it is a fuel issue already since it runs perfectly on small doses ether for as long as you keep spraying enough to keep it running. I am a little worried about the ballast or ICM now though, but those should both be good if it runs fine on ether, right? The engine wasn’t knocking or ticking or anything when running on the doses of ether. That’s my main reason for buying it. That and, I have a 4G63t engine sitting on a stand that will be going in it eventually. Oh, and also the fact that I only paid $800 for it with no rust.

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