Hot trip

[85Ram50]

The aluminum rad I got was the Leland Global 700AA.

EDIT- I looked on carid I darn sure did not pay $200 for this one.
I'm pretty sure I got it on RA and the two RA charges for that month were $149 and $87. I figure its probably the $149. It's really well made and its for both the 2.0 and 2.6 at least RA shows the same out of stock rad for both.

[atownbrg]

didn't see a report on how flow went through the radiator. Garden hose in on top and how much worked its way out the bottom? I'm guessing these trucks do not have plastic WP impellers that can disintegrate live newer vehicles sometimes have?

[xboxrox]

dodgy NPD says they have original radiators in stock for these trucks both 2.0L & 2.6L ~ assuming your truck is 2.0L engine here is the link to NPD $59.00 and free shipping
https://www.nationalpartsdepot.com/r...s-19449-1.html

[geezer101]

didn't see a report on how flow went through the radiator. Garden hose in on top and how much worked its way out the bottom? I'm guessing these trucks do not have plastic WP impellers that can disintegrate live newer vehicles sometimes have?

Water pumps in these either have a pressed steel impeller or a cast alloy one.

[dodgy71]

Update, I tried a different radiator, not exactly the correct fit but made ot work temporarily, I've flushed the old one with CLR and it helped but I think I'll either take it to a rad. shop or keep searching for a new one. I don't want a plastic.

[dodgy71]

assuming your truck is 2.0L

It's 2.6

[SubGothius]

It's 2.6

Then here's their radiator for an '87-89 2.6L:
https://www.nationalpartsdepot.com/r...s-19458-1.html

[85Ram50]

Xbox,
I emailed to ask if they were brass headers, cause at the link it leads me to believe there are will fit in as if it were OE not actually OE. No reply yet

[xboxrox]

Xbox,
I emailed to ask if they were brass headers, cause at the link it leads me to believe there are will fit in as if it were OE not actually OE. No reply yet

and I phoned www.Radiator.com today they do not have the MM #115 or the D50 #758 radiators in stock...

(Not sure what radiator is in your truck now nor do I know what radiator sizes you are willing to purchase)

OK that being said the best tip I got so far is to phone TRAVIS on Monday at NPD Radiator 1(800) 368-6451 there are supposedly six of the #0700E radiators in stock...

I cannot locate a 15"x23" copper or all aluminum radiator for my truck too ~ options now seem to be Griffen Radiator they have an $800 Mitsubishi Starion all aluminum radiator & amayama has Gen1 Strada diesel engine 15"x23" copper radiator for about same price shipped $800

Murray radiator at O'Reilly's all aluminum ~ $505 one core only https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...e-ram-50?pos=2

Copper radiator lasts much longer & all things considered cools as well as an aluminum radiator ~ wish I had better answers for us both !!

[xboxrox]

Then here's their radiator for an '87-89 2.6L:
https://www.nationalpartsdepot.com/r...s-19458-1.html

Sub, I saw that radiator too but it's only got a one row core of cooling !!

[xboxrox]

Update, I tried a different radiator, not exactly the correct fit but made ot work temporarily, I've flushed the old one with CLR and it helped but I think I'll either take it to a rad. shop or keep searching for a new one. I don't want a plastic.

Yep avoid plastic ~ if you can find an oem copper radiator I would bet later years will fit pretty close all the way to 1996 ~ browse wrecking yards if you can or Tel them & keep an eye for a wrecked vehicle with a near new radiator under the hood ~ many Chrysler vehicles used similar or same radiators like a 83-85 2.6L Challenger !!

[geezer101]

I think radiators went all to alloy core and plastic tanks in Gen 2 trucks. I try to avoid plastic/alloy radiators myself. Alloy is great for transferring heat but the plastic tanks aren't resilient when it comes to coolant loss and the tank seals can (but generally don't...) fail. I've bought new radiators that were garbage straight out of the box. Getting a half decent truck radiator from a JY is near impossible so I ended up finding a copper/brass radiator out of a van and had a shop solder the truck side mounts onto it + install a fan sensor bung into the bottom tank.

*what I've found is the plastic tank radiators are a gamble from JY's. If a radiator has been running low on coolant for a while, the top tank will split directly in front of the top hose inlet due to it being hit with super heated coolant/steam constantly. It is almost impossible to get a good used radiator from a yard for a Hyundai Elantra and you could almost bet every one of those engines had sustained overheating damage...

[dodgy71]

So I messed with my old radiator today, the stuff I managed to get out of it using the CLR solution looks an awful lot like stop leak

[geezer101]

Grrr, that stuff is the bane of all good things. So this garbage is also floating around inside your block, head and heater core. It kills thermostats and heater control valves too with surprising efficiency (bonus points if you have the factory carb with the water choke) Apparently it's near impossible to completely remove it. I think at this moment you will have to use desperate measures to get rid of it. Pull the heater out and bath the core in citric acid and flush the heater valve (citric acid is way cheaper than CLR and isn't a disaster to dispose of). This is a good opportunity to give the heater/blower case an epic clean and replace all of the control flap seals. Remove the thermostat and reverse flush the engine. Don't use coolant for a while - distilled water only. Drive it for a few weeks/a month, flush again, rinse, repeat. Expect to find out why this crap was used on the engine in the first place (bad head gasket, undetected leak in the external water recirculation pipe, pinhole leak in the base plate of the intake manifold - this one is common on 2.0 G63B engines)

[85Ram50]

Grrr, that stuff is the bane of all good things. So this garbage is also floating around inside your block, head and heater core. It kills thermostats and heater control valves too with surprising efficiency (bonus points if you have the factory carb with the water choke) Apparently it's near impossible to completely remove it. I think at this moment you will have to use desperate measures to get rid of it. Pull the heater out and bath the core in citric acid and flush the heater valve (citric acid is way cheaper than CLR and isn't a disaster to dispose of). This is a good opportunity to give the heater/blower case an epic clean and replace all of the control flap seals. Remove the thermostat and reverse flush the engine. Don't use coolant for a while - distilled water only. Drive it for a few weeks/a month, flush again, rinse, repeat. Expect to find out why this crap was used on the engine in the first place (bad head gasket, undetected leak in the external water recirculation pipe, pinhole leak in the base plate of the intake manifold - this one is common on 2.0 G63B engines)

Just a note form harsh experience, do not remove the ballast resistor?? I can't think of the name of the part that is a spring with ceramics on it. They seem to stop working just by removing them. It is where the wire plugs in on top right You have no fan if it breaks. It happened to me twice and I was lucky enough to find another heater to scavenge. The only way to get another one is from another heater. At least that is how it went on my 1st gen. BTW that alum rad I got is the same one RA shows for your truck.

[geezer101]

Just a note form harsh experience, do not remove the ballast resistor?? I can't think of the name of the part that is a spring with ceramics on it. They seem to stop working just by removing them. It is where the wire plugs in on top right You have no fan if it breaks. It happened to me twice and I was lucky enough to find another heater to scavenge. The only way to get another one is from another heater. At least that is how it went on my 1st gen. BTW that alum rad I got is the same one RA shows for your truck.

There are replacement blower motor resistors that can be adapted into the OEM heater case. Just have to look and compare them to the shape and design of the old one - it may require swapping the harness connector to plug into the new unit. Have to be observant though as some new blower resistors are made for variable control or 4 fan speeds.

[SubGothius]

There are replacement blower motor resistors that can be adapted into the OEM heater case. Just have to look and compare them to the shape and design of the old one - it may require swapping the harness connector to plug into the new unit. Have to be observant though as some new blower resistors are made for variable control or 4 fan speeds.

I recently got and installed this blower resistor block, a bit pricey for what it is, but a direct-swap for my old one that'd already lost the two lowest fan speeds:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153052687574

[85Ram50]

That is good to know Sub and Geez cause both times there was no obvious break but when I put them back in after cleaning the darn thing did not work when it was working beforehand.

[SubGothius]

Yeah, every time you run the blower it effectively heat-cycles whichever coil of resistance-wire regulates that speed, so they get fragile and don't tolerate being jostled much at all.

[geezer101]

...the added bonus is the lack of air filtration in the heater cases. You don't want leaves, debris and dirt etc building up around the resistor block which is another good reason to take the whole assembly out and give it a thorough clean. Amazing how much fresher the air smells with decades of dog hair, old dirt and cigarette smoke tar scrubbed out of them.