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Thread: Radiator for 1988 Mitsubishi Mighty Max?

  1. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by FMS88 View Post
    One thing worth noting, except for the Liland 188A, all the radiators listed in the previous several posts have single row cores that are only 5/8" thick. The Liland core is twice as thick and has two rows so it has more cooling surface area and a greater capacity.
    It's cooler than the rest.

  2. #27


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    COOL the 4x4 is two row as well

  3. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by xboxrox View Post
    COOL the 4x4 is two row as well
    …if it’s an ‘86 or older. For some reason Mitsubishi started pairing the 2.6L engine with a single row radiator in ‘87.

  4. #29



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    Quote Originally Posted by FMS88 View Post
    For some reason Mitsubishi started pairing the 2.6L engine with a single row radiator in ‘87.
    Prolly because the new 2nd-gen body had less room between the engine and the front clip, so not enough clearance for a dual-row rad.
    1987 Dodge Ram 50 4G54 RWD longbed ("Elmo")
    1979 Lancia Beta Zagato spider ("Lola")
    1982 Lancia Beta Zagato spider ("Luigi")

  5. #30

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    used to see the Spectre radiator for these trucks all over the place.... seem to have vanished
    perfect size ~16" H x 19.75" W & 1-5/8" thick.... under $100 too!
    Ran on moded starion 2.6, hopped up turbo diesel and hot 4g63/4 dohc... all street trucks

  6. #31

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  7. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by SubGothius View Post
    Prolly because the new 2nd-gen body had less room between the engine and the front clip, so not enough clearance for a dual-row rad.
    Hmmmm... I now have the Liland 188 and before that an '86 2-row until I broadsided a deer. Both fit perfectly with no clearance issues.

  8. #33


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    Aluminum & plastic don't last as long as an original Mitsu brass 'n copper radiator & can't easily be rebuilt ~ I used a DIY car wash pressure wand to bend several fins like a dummy but the truck keeps cool still, looks to be an original radiator probably... I'm too lazy to phone 'n verify stock BUT one of the various links in this thread supposedly has the right stock 2 row brass copper 4X4 radiators ~ according to that YouTube video a gen 1 Montero radiator fits MM & Ram50 with minimal tweaking ?!?

  9. #34



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    Quote Originally Posted by xboxrox View Post
    Aluminum & plastic don't last as long as an original Mitsu brass 'n copper radiator & can't easily be rebuilt
    Brass and copper also cool more effectively than aluminum. Main reasons ppl switch to aluminum are weight (for racing duty), cost and availability, if OEM rads are NLA or scarce enough to command a premium price.
    1987 Dodge Ram 50 4G54 RWD longbed ("Elmo")
    1979 Lancia Beta Zagato spider ("Lola")
    1982 Lancia Beta Zagato spider ("Luigi")

  10. #35

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    if plastic/alum can't cool any street performance rig "efficiently".... you have other issues
    and how long do we need a radiator to last ? Work fine in millions of passenger vehicles

  11. #36



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    Never said plastic/aluminum wasn't effective, just countering the common misconception that aluminum is somehow better or an upgrade from brass/copper OEM rads.
    1987 Dodge Ram 50 4G54 RWD longbed ("Elmo")
    1979 Lancia Beta Zagato spider ("Lola")
    1982 Lancia Beta Zagato spider ("Luigi")

  12. #37


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    I noticed here in salty Hawaii that the window air conditioner condenser aluminum fins on the copper tube coils corrode rather quickly ~ they eaten by that exfoliation process which turns the fins into a white powder then they just fall off ~ the fins on my truck's radiator where the paint is washed off turned a purple reddish color but the fins stay intact... The aluminum is great for weight savings and cost ~ without looking I imagine aluminum & copper cool pretty much the same FOR A TRUCK as in close enuff for govt work LOL

  13. #38

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    Aluminium and plastic are all about cost saving and weight reduction. Alloy is adequate for heat transfer but is near impossible to repair in the event it fails (and it will almost always fail where the cooling tubes are sealed to an end tank) The thing that bugs me about these type of radiator is the plastic tanks cracking. They are nowhere near as resilient to critical heat cycles if there is a leak somewhere else in the system and coolant levels drop. It's like it sends it on a death march once something goes wrong.
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