Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
Use a fresh screwdriver with good, sharp points on it as these screws are well known for stripping out (place the screwdriver tip in each screw and give the handle a good tap with a wrench/hammer handle to shock the threads free before attempting to remove any screws you feel are going to be stubborn).
Speaking of, just get a JIS* screwdriver, which looks like a Philips but isn't.

Hozan or Vessel brands are good and widely available online. I like my ball-grip Vessel with swappable bits, even came with Pozidriv bits that came in handy for assembling Ikea stuff (which comes with screws that also resemble Philips or JIS but aren't either).

Philips screws/drivers are designed to cam-out as a torque limiter for ease of mass-assembly without stripping threads, but this can lead to stripped heads with repeated dis/reassembly or trying to undo even a mildly-seized screw.

JIS screw heads look similar but differ, being designed for a more secure fit between the screw head and driver bit; these often (but not always) have a dimple on the head, so that's a dead giveaway you've got a JIS screw, which is pretty much all of them on these trucks. A Philips driver bit engages these even more loosely than a proper Philips screw head, further contributing to head strip-out.

Nearly anything assembled outside the US will be using JIS or DIN-/ISO-equivalent screws, so having the proper driver/bit will help enormously. Better yet, a JIS driver bit also works better on actual Philips screw heads, and a JIS screw head stripped by a Philips driver/bit may still be recoverable with a JIS driver bit.

*Technically superseded by DIN 5260-PH/ISO 8764-1, but outside the industry ppl still call them JIS anyway as they're nearly-enough identical, and only these newer successor standards are readily available anymore anyway.