Originally Posted by
geezer101
Generally, the block gets hot tanked and goes through a check - cylinder bores, deck face and machined. Crank gets hot tanked as well, checked over and journals machined or linished depending on the condition (there are oil journals that pass through the crank and these can get plugged up with crud - if it dislodges after getting a once over it can wreck new bearings). Add new bottom end bearings for the main crank journals and the rods. Rods are retained. If it's just a freshen up you can get away with keeping the pistons, install new standard rings and a light hone of the bores. If the bores are no longer 'true' or have some scoring, factor in the block getting rebored and new pistons to match. If you've already got it apart then new timing chains and guides are on the list. Think about getting a replacement water pump too. Check clearances in the oil pump gears and inspect the housing for wear on the contact faces in the housings. Get a complete VRS kit with the rocker/valve cover and the half moon seal for the rear of the head. An engine rebuild is not a cheap endeavour, but as long as the machining is good and all the clearances are within tolerance you'll end up with an engine you won't have to mess with for 10 years.
*addendum - replace the rear seal. It'll suck to have the whole thing assembled and running sweet, only to have the rear seal fail and start drooling oil out of it...
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