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Thread: Which cylinder head do I get?

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  1. #1

    Array
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    Adelaide, South Australia
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    1985 Mitsubishi L200
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    G63B
    There is a small dimple drilled into the shaft gear on the distributor that needs to be lined up with the alignment mark on the distributor body. This should get the rotor pointing before #1 post on the distributor cap. Make sure the crank is on TDC #1. Install the distributor with the cap off and the stud for the locking nut in the centre of the adjusting slot and push the distributor into the head. The rotor will move into position just before or onto the location of #1 post in the cap. Tighten the locking nut, install the cap and leads and start it up. If you've got it right it will fire straight up. Adjust the advance/retard on the ignition timing.

    Now to have some fun. You will need a hand held tach/dwell meter. Remove the plugs and re-gap the electrodes to 0.85mm. Loosen off the distributor locking nut and start the engine. Hold the engine rpm @ 2000 and gently swing the distributor between advance/retard until you hit a sweet spot and the engine rpm's jump by themselves (might take 2 people to pull this off as holding rpm's fixed at one ratio can be tricky) Once you have found the sweet spot, back off the advance a tiny bit and tighten the distributor locking nut. Test drive and check for any signs of detonation/hesitation. If you've nailed it the engine will be nice and responsive, especially on gear changes.

  2. #2

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    08-14-2018
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    Walkersville,MD
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    1990 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
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    4G64
    Call Clearwater cyl. Head in Fl. They are a rebuilder and fair prices. Replaced a couple and looked fresh and worked well. prices

  3. #3

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    05-15-2016
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    Turtle Island
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    1988 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    G54B
    Quote Originally Posted by Lanklo View Post
    Call Clearwater cyl. Head in Fl. They are a rebuilder and fair prices. Replaced a couple and looked fresh and worked well. prices
    Ended up going with them.

  4. #4

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    1988 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
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    G54B
    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    There is a small dimple drilled into the shaft gear on the distributor that needs to be lined up with the alignment mark on the distributor body. This should get the rotor pointing before #1 post on the distributor cap. Make sure the crank is on TDC #1. Install the distributor with the cap off and the stud for the locking nut in the centre of the adjusting slot and push the distributor into the head. The rotor will move into position just before or onto the location of #1 post in the cap. Tighten the locking nut, install the cap and leads and start it up. If you've got it right it will fire straight up. Adjust the advance/retard on the ignition timing.

    Now to have some fun. You will need a hand held tach/dwell meter. Remove the plugs and re-gap the electrodes to 0.85mm. Loosen off the distributor locking nut and start the engine. Hold the engine rpm @ 2000 and gently swing the distributor between advance/retard until you hit a sweet spot and the engine rpm's jump by themselves (might take 2 people to pull this off as holding rpm's fixed at one ratio can be tricky) Once you have found the sweet spot, back off the advance a tiny bit and tighten the distributor locking nut. Test drive and check for any signs of detonation/hesitation. If you've nailed it the engine will be nice and responsive, especially on gear changes.
    Thanks, I'm going to try this and see how it goes.

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