Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 32

Thread: Truck stalled at highway speeds, wouldn't start again

  1. #1

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    01-29-2014
    Posts
    239
    Location

    Gilbert, AZ
    Vehicle

    1980 Plymouth Arrow Truck
    Engine

    I.D.K.?

    Truck stalled at highway speeds, wouldn't start again

    So this is a weird one. Last Friday, I had been driving for about 25 miles, was about 5 miles from home. I was driving on the highway, doing around ~80mph when the truck started to sputter and lose power. I made my way to closest exit and got all the way down the ramp when it died.

    Guy stopped and was nice enough to tow me off the exit ramp into a neighborhood. I got it started again after 20 minutes of fiddling, drove about a mile, died again.

    This time I couldn't get it started again at all...

    Called State Farm up, they came out and gave me a tow to my house.

    Last night, for grins, I decided to try to start it. Fired right up!

    Any ideas? For reference, I have a Weber carb, and an electric fuel pump.

  2. #2



    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    03-06-2018
    Posts
    182
    Location

    Tucson, AZ USA
    Vehicle

    1987 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    First thing, try changing your fuel filter in case it's getting clogged. The reason it starts up again after sitting a while is that some of the debris can settle back away from the filter media, allowing juuust enough fuel to pass that it starts up and idles okay, maybe even drives a while, before enough debris gets pressed back into the media that it starves again.

    If that doesn't resolve it, I've been chasing a similar sporadic issue for a couple years, and have eliminated enough other factors by now that I've got to conclude I must have some sort of chunky debris/deposits drifting around in the tank that occasionally gets sucked up against the fuel intake pipe. Usually I can just shut it off and coast along for a block or so to let the debris drift away from the pipe, then restart and continue on my merry way.

    If it keeps dying after a couple rounds of this, I'll make a sharp turn to slosh things around a bit in the tank, and that usually gets it sorted. I've also been filling it up before I get below 1/4 tank lately, which seems to reduce the odds of this happening. Ultimately I'll have to drop the tank and take it to a radiator shop to have it thoroughly cleaned out, maybe apply a sealant if they do that sort of thing or do it myself.

    By coincidence, there's a similar story in this month's RockAuto newsletter:

    Finally we drained and removed the gas tank, turned it upside down, and out fell a fibrous seal from the cap of a bottle of fuel additive the owner had recently added! Apparently, the seal would float until the gas was low enough that the suction from the fuel pump would suck the seal over the port, shut off the fuel flow and stall the motor. When the suction was relieved, the cap would float back up top until it was sucked back down again. At full tank, it was too far away to be affected by the suction. Once removed the motor ran fine again!
    1987 Dodge Ram 50 4G54 RWD longbed ("Elmo")
    1979 Lancia Beta Zagato spider ("Lola")
    1982 Lancia Beta Zagato spider ("Luigi")

  3. #3

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    5,653
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    First place to check is the ignition coil - primarily the ballast resistor. If it wants to run after sitting for 5-10 mins and then dies again, there is a chance the ballast resistor is cracked. You will know if it has failed as it'll be red hot to touch (don't just grab it with your hands - it will definitely burn your fingertips if the ceramic has cracked) I'd probably check the fuel system next for a wiring fault/bad earth and the fuel filter as SubG has recommended. If the pump shuts off due to an intermittent fault, you won't know right away as the carb will have to drain the fuel bowl before starving out.
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  4. #4

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    01-29-2014
    Posts
    239
    Location

    Gilbert, AZ
    Vehicle

    1980 Plymouth Arrow Truck
    Engine

    I.D.K.?
    Ok I'll try those things.

    Last night I fired it up, let it run for about 5 minutes, gave it some gas and it died again and wouldn't start up after that. Ugh. Lol

  5. #5

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    11-29-2015
    Posts
    395
    Location

    miami, fl
    Vehicle

    1991 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    4G64
    when it's dead, throw a cap of gas in the carb. If it fires immediately - fuel feed problem

  6. #6

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    01-29-2014
    Posts
    239
    Location

    Gilbert, AZ
    Vehicle

    1980 Plymouth Arrow Truck
    Engine

    I.D.K.?
    Just put a cap of gas in the carb, nothing.

    Might just run out an get an ignition coil and throw it in there, see what happens.

  7. #7

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    01-29-2014
    Posts
    239
    Location

    Gilbert, AZ
    Vehicle

    1980 Plymouth Arrow Truck
    Engine

    I.D.K.?
    Mine doesn't have a ballast resistor, btw.

    I checked the coil. Primary coil resistance is 3.6 ohms, and secondary resistance is 7.5 K-ohms. Seems out of spec.

  8. #8

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    5,653
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    AFAIK it should have a ballast resistor. There is every chance the coil is dead or very weak. It will have a tendency to break down at higher rpm if it's tired so running at constant highway speeds would've been enough to push it til the spark was no longer consistent to burn fuel.
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  9. #9

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    01-29-2014
    Posts
    239
    Location

    Gilbert, AZ
    Vehicle

    1980 Plymouth Arrow Truck
    Engine

    I.D.K.?
    Any idea on the specs on that resistor or where to buy it? I can't seem to find much info

  10. #10



    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    03-06-2018
    Posts
    182
    Location

    Tucson, AZ USA
    Vehicle

    1987 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Just get this coil; it comes with the resistor and is cheap enough you may as well nab both birds with the one stone:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/381825243549

    This thread covers the proper wiring:

    http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...on-coil-wiring
    1987 Dodge Ram 50 4G54 RWD longbed ("Elmo")
    1979 Lancia Beta Zagato spider ("Lola")
    1982 Lancia Beta Zagato spider ("Luigi")

  11. #11

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    01-29-2014
    Posts
    239
    Location

    Gilbert, AZ
    Vehicle

    1980 Plymouth Arrow Truck
    Engine

    I.D.K.?
    I have an '80, that's not the one for me...

  12. #12

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    5,653
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    Unless you want to keep the truck year specific OEM, that is the best replacement option. It has a higher output voltage and is more efficient at higher rpm to maintain a consistent burn cycle. That transformer type of ignition coil is the type I would recommend

    *Some performance aftermarket coils do not work with the ICM's that are installed in the factory distributors and cause running issues (Accel, MSD etc)
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  13. #13

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    01-24-2017
    Posts
    1,167
    Location

    New Zealand
    Vehicle

    1981 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    Other
    coils are pretty generic
    i have used a 1950s lucas one from a brit car on a 2000's honda 50cc scooter

    it will work, theres no brains in the truck to know whats there



    The main thing is to get either a coil that doesnt need a resistor

    or a coil and matching resistor

    although some electronic ign systems dont like the resistor ones

  14. #14

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    01-29-2014
    Posts
    239
    Location

    Gilbert, AZ
    Vehicle

    1980 Plymouth Arrow Truck
    Engine

    I.D.K.?
    Whelp. Put the new coil on. Nothing... :/

  15. #15

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    01-24-2017
    Posts
    1,167
    Location

    New Zealand
    Vehicle

    1981 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    Other
    still getting spark?

    if so, try some ether down the carb.

  16. #16

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    5,653
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    The distributor? Maybe the ICM in the distributor has cooked... check for spark as tortron has recommended.
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  17. #17

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    03-16-2018
    Posts
    341
    Location

    Raymond New Hampshire, USA
    Vehicle

    1989 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    ICM's are pretty notorious for failing with heat like a coil. They'll run fine cold and give it up when the engine is up to temp. Sometimes they will still throw spark but the timing will be wayyyyyy out.

  18. #18

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    01-29-2014
    Posts
    239
    Location

    Gilbert, AZ
    Vehicle

    1980 Plymouth Arrow Truck
    Engine

    I.D.K.?
    One note, the coil I replaced had a note on it NOT to use a ballast resistor. Interesting.

    I have a new distributor cap & rotor coming, the cap had some weird green corrosion where it connects to the coil wire.

    I'll check for spark once I put that on.

    Fun fun

  19. #19

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    5,653
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    Be aware that is the job of the ballast resistor - to prevent everything downstream from getting roasted by full voltage through the coil. It'll boost secondary voltage at the plugs but compromise the life of the coil and the ignition system (ICM/breaker points/plug electrodes) That's why they went to solid state transformer coils. They are capable of producing a stronger, more stable spark.
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  20. #20

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    01-29-2014
    Posts
    239
    Location

    Gilbert, AZ
    Vehicle

    1980 Plymouth Arrow Truck
    Engine

    I.D.K.?
    New cap & rotor did nothing, checked for spark - no spark. New ICM it is I guess.

  21. #21


    Array
    Status
    Online
    Join Date
    05-01-2018
    Posts
    1,018
    Location

    Kailua, HI
    Vehicle

    1986 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Quote Originally Posted by haruman View Post
    New cap & rotor did nothing, checked for spark - no spark. New ICM it is I guess.
    12volts getting to the coil with key in ON position & (eng off) ???

  22. #22

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    01-29-2014
    Posts
    239
    Location

    Gilbert, AZ
    Vehicle

    1980 Plymouth Arrow Truck
    Engine

    I.D.K.?
    Quote Originally Posted by xboxrox View Post
    12volts getting to the coil with key in ON position & (eng off) ???
    Just checked that, and yes.

  23. #23



    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    03-06-2018
    Posts
    182
    Location

    Tucson, AZ USA
    Vehicle

    1987 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Then sounds like most likely the ICM. If your new one doesn't come with heatsink compound, AutoZone stocks some:

    https://www.autozone.com/miscellaneo...1-ea/19189_0_0

    After removing the old ICM inside the dizzy, scrape/wipe off any residue of old compound (if there isn't any, that may explain why it failed), apply a thin, even layer across the base of the new ICM, install it, then wipe off any compound that squeezed out of the edge. Don't just use dielectric grease, as that isn't doped with thermally-conductive particles like proper heatsink compound is.
    1987 Dodge Ram 50 4G54 RWD longbed ("Elmo")
    1979 Lancia Beta Zagato spider ("Lola")
    1982 Lancia Beta Zagato spider ("Luigi")

  24. #24

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    5,653
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    ...or arctic silver from a PC spares shop. It's is the best stuff for installing processor chip heatsinks. Don't go nuts with it.
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  25. #25

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    01-29-2014
    Posts
    239
    Location

    Gilbert, AZ
    Vehicle

    1980 Plymouth Arrow Truck
    Engine

    I.D.K.?
    New ICM came a day early. Put it on, fired right up! Woo.

    I'll get some heatsink compound and put that on before I drive it any.

    Just glad it started!

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •