Stock power upgrades & swap questions

[nprboref]

Hi I bought this 86 Mighty Max about 3 months ago, and while I'm having a blast with it, I can't shake the feeling I want more power. It's a 2.0 5 speed truck, and based on projectzerog's website I think a 6 bolt. For now I was planning on doing a carb swap to a Weber 38dges.

I do want to do a header swap and a full exhaust but I don't know where I can find any because most header posts on here seem to be one by order. If anybody has any sources/links on those I'd be very appreciative.

My second thing regards 7 bolt 4g63t crankwalk. Just by doing my small amount of research I've seen people recommend to put 6 bolt 4g63ts in these trucks if doing the swap. However, trying to find a 6 bolt from a jdm engine dealer, since I'd like to not buy a dsm just for the motor, I've seen that these motors are much more expensive than the 7 bolts. So that lead me back to the question of are 7 bolts all that bad?
I guess my question in all of this is do low mile 7 bolt 4g63t experience crankwalk to the point of damaging the motor on stock horsepower levels?

Finally my 3rd question is kind of a combo. What are guys doing about the thermostat and heater hoses. In my theory crafting I was thinking of doing a remote thermostat housing, but I don't know how hard that would be since I've never welded or fabbed anything extensively. Secondly what are guys doing about the heater core hoses because of the cam position sensor. I'd like to keep my heat so i was wondering if anybody does something like a 90 to clear the cam position sensor.

Any feedback is appreciated, cheers.

[geezer101]

Hi and welcome to mightyram. The G63B engine responds well to the usual mods of carb, header + exhaust and port work etc. Don't go for a JDM dealer to source an engine - trawl craigslist and JY's for engines. The 4G63 made it's way into a lot of different cars and was also used in early Hyundais and the Kia Optima. The 6 bolt engine is favoured due to it's bigger bottom end journals. The nonsense about crankwalk is mostly from other car communities. If you want to do a crash course on all things 4G63 check out Jafromobile on youtube (one of his vids goes into a crankwalk teardown and diagnosis) The guy really knows his stuff and every video is a tutorial on the innards of Mitsubishis toughest engine. Projectzerog will have covered the mods to relocate the thermostat housing and other mods necessary to fit the 4G64 into a RWD configuration. Look online for headers (ebay etc) Be aware that Express van headers will not work on your truck as the runner tubes are shorter and they will foul the underside of your truck.

[dash]

folks buy donor DSMs to get all the electronics as well. Turbo & mani fits.
LOTS of info about to guide you - water outlet, cam sensor, etc... Not a swap for the novice imo
Seen folks abroad lynch their evo3. 7 bolts no drama.
A friend bought a dirt cheap non turbo 7 bolt. Threw his gt35 + electronics on. Motor lasted, car fast
Ridiculously stiff clutch crankwalked it. Hot evo3s didn't run any of the ACT stiff crap

starion 2.6 drivetrains still available and swap far easier. Bolt-on mods make a quick truck. Wiring not hard
Either get a truck wide 5 speed or mod your bell housing... or slice the ring off one of the many dead starion boxes

[geezer101]

There were issues with first Gen 7 bolt engines only related to DSM stuff for some reason (something to do with manufacturing - well documented on tuner forums) Starion/Conquest is an option but as dash has pointed out you will need both engine + transmission due to 4G54's being a wide block mounting pattern. If you go for 4G63 turbo transplant you will need to add a tuffpan/reinforced sump plate on the gearbox. Once you start heading 250+ hp the transmission housing will start to flex and the gear sets will no longer mesh together properly under the increased torque (boom, broken teeth...) The reinforced sump plate will allow the standard KM132 to hold 500+ hp which will be plain scary in a lightweight truck. An early Evo (1-3) or a Galant VR4 engine is a 1 G 6 bolt engine and are literally bomb proof. A big power increase will need a high load pressure plate to prevent clutch slip. The clutch cable mechanism can cause the firewall to flex enough for the metal to tear with a higher rated pressure plate and will need additional reinforcing. Mitsubishi small trucks are a flexible platform with lots of cross compatibility between model generations and engine swaps but it's still a truck and has limitations.

*What I'd recommend - swap the front steering hubs and brakes from a Gen 2 truck. Vented discs and uprated calipers - cheap and easy, straight nut and bolt swap. Compare your front stabiliser bar to a Gen 2. If your truck has the thinner stabiliser, swap the bar and all of the mounting hardware from a Gen 2 truck - again cheap and easy. Consider the 38DGES swap. There is a bit to it. Main things you will need is the adapter kit and an electric fuel pump (HVLP - high volume, low pressure) Follow the guides on the forum and you can't go wrong. Bigger exhaust and headers if you can get a set. The key to the G63B to making power is getting it to breathe. Next is de-governing the engine. The water pump driven radiator fan and the balance shafts add significant weight to the rotating masses the crank has to expend energy on. Delete the shafts and add an electric thermo cooling fan and you'll get a much improved throttle response. Added bonus, the electric fan is much more efficient at keeping your engine cool and frees up precious engine bay space, takes a load off the water pump bearings and makes it easier to get to belts and general access for repairs/servicing.

[dash]

if u r serious, u already have a 6 bolt. I'd run DSM pistons and do the twincam conversion
non-us starion 2.0 have detailed this route to death, on their oem 2.0sohc:
https://starionclub.com/forum/viewfo...c41928fc5f7b72
Too many turbo converted cars have no squirters, so I wouldn't worry about that
with hybrid/upgraded bolt on mitsu turbo + good tune.... the 2.0 pin u the seat all thru every gear

[nprboref]

First off, I just want to thank you guys for all the info and pointers you gave me.

After doing digging, I'm thinking a starion drivetrain swap is out of the question since I just can't plain find any.
Next the full swap I've found an option that might work for me. I know you say don't use JDM engine importers but part out dsm's near me are 5k+ so it doesn't make sense. It's a 2g dsm that has engine, accessories, full harness, and ecu. I figured I'd do the necessary engine mount mods, coolant hose routing, clutch mods, and trans mount mods that come with it.

The other way was the dohc head swap. After digging and doing an excel for this I found the cost to end up about the same area, and to me (although i've never done an engine swap period) it seems like more work to me.
So, I figure my best bet is to find a full dsm engine and start at that base.

Then when it comes to suspension and brakes, I was going to do that after I do swap, may not be the best bet, but that is my current idea.

[dash]

DSM swap or DOHC alot more involved than a starion 2.6, which is bolt-in + relatively simple wiring
U gota go the distance to find stuff for these relics. Things won't fall in your lap, or just sit around locally

i'm no facebook, but you check there ? ...always somebody offing 2.6 stuff, ...right up to whole donors. Always
https://www.facebook.com/groups/291925320942153/


starion forum recently took a MAJOR blow. Lost most of invaluable posts/info. Some weak activity
You can establish contacts still. Folks getting out the game, put things up for grabs
https://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?/forums/


this 2.6 guru in Orlando. Hit him up. Does lotsa youtube videos
https://www.facebook.com/groups/557245044835464
while he and his crew like to go straight to standalone TBI or MPI, TBI very mod-friendly & still performs well today