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Thread: Just got an '87 Power Ram

  1. #1

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    Just got an '87 Power Ram

    Well I just bought an '87 Power Ram this morning, first time owning one of these but I had looked into them before getting my last truck. Someone right around the corner from me had it for sale, and it was right in my price range.

    I'm impressed with it so far. Runs good, very clean interior, 4x4 works. I haven't done a lot of work on trucks or engines before, but am wondering what general maintenance might need to be done. It has 144k miles on it, has had the timing chain replaced but he wasn't sure at how many miles (he had only owned the truck for 4 months).

    I don't have any special tools or a shop, but am getting a Haynes or Chilton's manual today. The EGR valve was taken out, apparently done properly and all vacuum hoses were capped. It takes awhile to warm up when it is cold out, and apparently is an issue with the choke? I have never owned a carbed engine or worked on one, but that's what the previous owner said.

    I'm glad to have the truck, and it's nice to have found this forum to be a part of. My last truck was an Isuzu Pup and I spent a lot of time on isuzupup.com, always good to have help with any issues.

    Zac
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  2. #2



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    Welcome to the site. Clean truck... If you look in the manual section you will find we have darn near every manual you can think of. If you look through the WIKI under history then you will find information to learn what you have under the hood and cab. The more you know about these trucks, the better. You will find that the more you learn the easier they are to locate parts and repair. #1 change the oil. In everything. Differentials, engine, trany, transfer case, power steering oil, and brake fluid. If the coolant is not nice and green change it also. I would bet you $5 that some have never been touched. The more you show the truck love the better it will run. OH and don't forget the fuel filter.
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  3. #3

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    What is type of shell is on the back, i would like to get one for my 1984 Toyota pickup, but I'm not sure what type it is.

  4. #4

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    Right on, thanks. I definitely plan on checking/filling all of the oil... PO said it was all done in 2006 at the latest! He's kept up with regular crankcase oil changes but that's about it I think.

    I'm going to check and most likely replace the PCV valve today, oxygen sensor... anything else small and cheap like that I should replace? I was reading about the TPS and how replacing it can often help with my truck's one issue (idles weird when it's real cold out, some kind of choke issue), and kind of "skips" power until it heats up. Seems like a common problem but not always easy to narrow down the solution.

    Oh and I have no idea about the camper shell, looked everywhere and can't find any logos, tags, anything. Seems like it fits good other than there being a rubber gasket around the cab window area, so it doesn't slide all the way against the truck. PO said I could cut the plastic gasket off and it'd slide all the way up but I want to be sure before doing anything like that.

    Zac

  5. #5



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    If I was selling you a car I would tell you it runs on liquid ion energy vapors from recycled green plants, (AKA Gas) if that was what you wanted to here. People lie. Especially the ones that are selling the car. Hell you buy a car from me and I'll toss in a puppy that can't get flees. I had it's DNA crossed with an zebra so it can run fast.

    Don't check, change them all. Unless you did it your self, assume that it has never been changed only checked it's hole life. The moment you open up a fill plug and smell it you will know.

    But replace the fuel filter. Under the bed on the frame. drivers side. 4 bucks.


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  6. #6

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    For sure, I know enough to know that sellers can be dishonest.

    A car that runs on recycled green plants.. now there is an idea! I was running my last truck on about 50/50 diesel and veg oil, more or less depending on weather and ambient temperature. Someday maybe I'll swap one of the Mitsu diesels in this guy.

    Zac

  7. #7

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    Just to confirm, I am putting 5w30 in the engine (what was in there, I live in a cold climate), SAE 80/90W GL-5 Gear Lube in the tranny, differential, and transfer case, ATF in the power steering, and Dot 3 for the brakes. Sound correct?

  8. #8



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    That will make it happy and give you a good starting point to work up from. Nothing like old cars. They just want love too.
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  9. #9


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    Power Steering fluid in the PS Pump. Type F and ATF will wear out the pump. Pumps made after 1976 should use only PS fluid (unless specified to use ATF)

  10. #10

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    That's why I was confused... I thought maybe ATF would work, but PS fluid would be ideal. I don't have the owners manual, but picked up a Haynes yesterday and it says to use ATF for the power steering.

  11. #11



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    Power steering fluid is hydraulic fluid ISO #46, ATF type F has a micro grit in it. ATF when used in things like a floor jack will harden the "O" Rings. But in a power steering operation in fleets like Coca Cola we just used ATF. Except in the Semi Trucks. you use engine oil. Normally it's printed on the cap of the reservoir or on the dip stick what to use.
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  12. #12


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    The Canopy is a "tradesman" or Commercial style. not sure who still makes them but someone should.

  13. #13


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    the op manual for my 88 says ATF

  14. #14

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    Cool, thanks guys.

    A couple questions... does anybody happen to know what size the drain plug and fill on the tranny is? Also for the differential and transfer case, not sure if they're the same or not. I don't have any big enough wrenches and would like to only buy the ones I need.

    And a total newbie question for ya.. where the heck is the oil pan on here? I was under there looking for 20 minutes before saying screw it and changing the fuel filter instead.

  15. #15



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    22mm or 24 I think
    OSH hardware has good craftsman for cheep.
    Engine oil pan drain plug is on the front right side of the engine when sitting in the drivers seat. You can see it with the hood open looking down.
    Always loosen the fill plug before draining any fluids. You can run into trouble otherwise. If you can't remove it then your screwed. Then you have no oil with no way to fill it.

    If you can you can take back the manual.

    We have it here.

    http://www.mightyram50.net/d-50/Fact...-1983-1993.zip

    You also might want to look though the manual and source info section.
    Last edited by SubGothius; 01-24-2023 at 01:32 PM. Reason: Fixed broken link
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  16. #16

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    Actually, I also thought of putting a 4Runner shell on my 84 Toyota short box, since I now have a job and all, I can get one from our local auto salvage for $50. A whole different story on how to make it work like I wan though.

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