Weber carb install

[geezer101]

It is really risky to go chopping or melting a plug while the head is mounted (you could leave a nasty surprise inside the cylinder bore - game over if you don't remove it) So you actually snapped the body of the plug where the plug socket would normally grab it?

[SubGothius]

The steel plug may have galled (cold-welded) to the aluminum head. To avoid this in the future, use one of those anti-sieze crayons on the threads, and torque to spec (14-22 ft-lb -- I'd stick with 14 due to the lubricant effect of the anti-sieze).

[Not Billy]

Only thing that's left is the threads and the ground electrode

[Not Billy]

I really like this truck but man this is a massive kick in the nuts, guess it's the risk you take when you buy a truck that's been sitting forever. https://imgur.com/mFfW96g

Anyone know who makes the best rebuild kit?

[Not Billy]

I bit the bullet and brought my motor to a machine shop to have them redo the block, aside from that i've taken the opportunity to go through and clean up my wiring further and find a better mounting spot for my fuel pump. All new parts all around and everything seems to lined up so I'll leave it at that, I'm mostly writing this post to thank all who have contributed and answered all my dumb questions. Especially you SubGotheus. After this project is wrapped up I think I'm gonna stick to the engines I know well, This has been a huge learning curve and one I quite honestly don't want to experience again.

[geezer101]

The 4G54 isn't the simplest engine to work on even though it's 'only' a single cam 4 cylinder. To do anything on it requires tearing almost 1/3 of the engine apart, the stock carb is the stuff of nightmares and there is always some confusion over timing and starter motor compatibility etc. Most shops don't have a clue about them and invariably mess something up. That being said, the steep learning curve is worth it. When you get it glued back together with the new carb, it'll be a whole new beast to drive.