Pacesetter header install w/ O2 sensor

[GodRamIt]

Hey all,

Thought I might bounce this off the forum guys and maybe get some feedback.

First off I ordered a Pacesetter header for the Ram 50, the quality was surprisingly very good. Flanges are extremely thick, all American made $180.00 to my door. Purchased because my OEM collector is warped and will not seal.

I’m planning to install an O2 sensor in the collector to keep the sensor connected as my truck is stock and I do not want any CEL.

Fixin’ to have my boy tig that bung right on the collector.

Any thoughts on whether or not this will be too far downstream ?

Thanks in advance for tips/advice.

[geezer101]

Is it a 4 into 1 header or a 4-2-1? If it's a 4-2-1, the set that I have the manufacturer welded the bung into the collector joining 1 and 3 from the underside so the sensor is facing downwards. I think it would be more accurate if it could read all exiting gases. Where is the factory sensor located?

[FMS88]

If it's a 4 into 1 that puts the sensor far from the engine (closer is better) which could cause an inconsistent signal to the ECU. To ensure the sensor stays at operating temperature, try installing a sensor that has an internal heater.

If you stay with a one-wire sensor and it doesn't get hot enough, it won't trigger a CEL. The odometer triggers the "Maint Required" dash light, not the ECU. But an insufficiently heated sensor will cause the carb to run rich; so emissions will soar while mpg will plummet.

[geezer101]

I did a bit of searching this morning on where to locate an O2 sensor on classic/older vehicles and the thread indicated 6 to 8" down stream from the collector. I thought it might have been too cold that far down stream, but the reasoning was to monitor unburned O2 before it could creep back into the exhaust and throw off readings

[GodRamIt]

Thanks so much for the response.

The little research I have done indicates that the collector on the exhaust side would be ideal.

It’s also an easy and reasonable location to insert the bung, plenty of room.

Header is 4 into , very long tubes and I’m diggin’ it. Although I don’t think it will help performance wise as I am not changing the exhaust system, carburetor or camshaft.

[GodRamIt]

It is a 4 into 1, the collector just seems To be a convenient location. I will get into the manuals today and see what the expected impediance would be.

If it's a 4 into 1 that puts the sensor far from the engine (closer is better) which could cause an inconsistent signal to the ECU. To ensure the sensor stays at operating temperature, try installing a sensor that has an internal heater.

If you stay with a one-wire sensor and it doesn't get hot enough, it won't trigger a CEL. The odometer triggers the "Maint Required" dash light, not the ECU. But an insufficiently heated sensor will cause the carb to run rich; so emissions will soar while mpg will plummet.

[GodRamIt]

Factory sensor is located right at the double collector, a big open space in the cast manifold.

Is it a 4 into 1 header or a 4-2-1? If it's a 4-2-1, the set that I have the manufacturer welded the bung into the collector joining 1 and 3 from the underside so the sensor is facing downwards. I think it would be more accurate if it could read all exiting gases. Where is the factory sensor located?

[geezer101]

Well, question answered Long runner headers = TORQUE. Nice

[GodRamIt]

Totaly !

Well, question answered Long runner headers = TORQUE. Nice

[GodRamIt]

https://www.kmjperformance.com/b-159...-products.html

Actually was $150 delivered.

[SubGothius]

https://www.kmjperformance.com/b-159...-products.html

Actually was $150 delivered.

Hm, not listed there; you may have bought their last one in stock.

No matter, found plenty others stock it; just Google pacesetter 70-1020 or pacesetter 72C1020 -- the 70-1020 is painted, 72C1020 is ceramic-coated. Note the paint is NOT hi-temp and only there to prevent rust in the warehouse, so it will burn off in use, exposing the bare metal. You can strip it and apply hi-temp paint yourself, or just get the ceramic-coated version in the first place.

[pennyman1]

pacesetter are HP headers, not torque headers. They don't help the truck in the range we usually run at. Better than a cracked or warped cast manifold, but there are not many other choices out there any more. One day I will post the 3 types of headers I have for the 2.6 - the pacesetter, the Doug Thorley Tri Y header, and a uber-rare Cyclone anti-reversionary header.

[FMS88]

Anyone tried or have an opinion of this header from APS, a manufacturer in OZ?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Headers-Ext...0AAOSwvoxb6f-q

[geezer101]

I haven't heard of them. The market support for older vehicles is falling out so it looks like they're filling the void. They're pretty cheap though - hope the price isn't reflecting on the end product...