hi everyone,
i originally posted this under the 2nd gen thread, but i think that was the wrong place.
i'm working on a '91 mighty max 2.4 for a friend, and it was running super rough, hard start, etc. i did lots of things, swapped a bunch of parts with a '96 mighty max parts car, and finally swapped the entire exhaust manifold/catalytic converter. this fixed the main issues -- i think it was a combo of failed spark wire and warped manifold/busted studs leading to clogged cat. however, during the process i changed the distributor timing, and didn't have a timing light so had to set it by feel.
things were a lot better, but still having very weak power at low RPMs or on hills (under load). i suggested not to drive it much until i got a timing light, but i think it got driven at least a hundred miles.
got the timing light, and the timing was way advanced, i think. like 15-20 degrees (!?!). i was jumping the wrong jumper at first, so that was the post-computer timing. now, with correct jumper, the timing is a steady 7 deg BTDC. however, with jumper ungrounded, it jumps around from ~9 degrees to ~14 or so. not smooth, each rotation is a bit different. not sure if that's normal?
anyway, now it starts well and everything is a lot smoother -- but still getting pretty terrible power at low RPM under load, and also backfires. not huge ones, put pretty frequent coughs/puffs of smoke. i drove it for ~10 miles to see if the computer just needed to reset, but not much change. disconnected battery, cleaned connections, and reattached (ie. reset ECU), no apparent change.
at idle (which is more or less ok, though it wanders), when i open the throttle, the RPMs go *down* and it bogs, almost cuts out, unless i feather it. sounds to me like fuel isn't getting added when throttle opens, right?
disconnecting the TPS or the MAF sensors appears to have little or no impact on the problem. i *think* this means they're not likely culprits. i'm not hearing misfires, so that makes me think spark is less likely the problem.
so: fuel, right? what's the best way to attach a pressure tester to these trucks -- i know some folks have had a hard time with it? the only other thing that makes me doubt fuel is that the truck was running fine before the spark/exhaust manifold issues cropped up, and it would be strange if a completely unrelated thing bust as well... yeah?
other thoughts?
appreciate the help!
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