Sight unseen

[xboxrox]

I pulled out the spark plugs to see if I could tell, which cyl. might be leaking. #1 & 3 looked to be burning the best. Light brown and no deposits. #2 was noticeably whiter and #4 was quite a bit darker on the insulator.
Since nothing was conclusive I cranked it to see if anything came out with all the plugs out....nothing.
I used a compression tester and these are the readings. The low reading on each cylinder is:
#1-145
#2-140
#3-120
#4-155
The odd thing is the spark plug in #3 looks the best, but being it is the lowest compression. I will try to treat that cylinder. I don't know how old these spark plugs are.
I'm going to put in new antifreeze and Steel Seal (if I can find it) and follow the online suggestions.
Any ideas please let me know.
Thanks

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDuGeQnMOzk <----- DO IT

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/he...ket-blown-test <----- DO IT


OK, you asked for it LOL I wished I had a NDT liquid penetrant test kit (cleaner dye developer) to check the head for cracks -------

Maybe O'Reilly's rents this tool for fully refundable deposit (did you really do this test as tortron suggested..?)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDuGeQnMOzk

DO THESE LINK STEPS FOR SURE (free tools @ O'Reilly's) THEY SAY "BLUE DEVIL" is the possible best fix @ AMAZON
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/he...ket-blown-test

So, a spark plug that shows heavy whitish to brown deposits may indicate a coolant leak. This type of problem will only get worse and lead to even greater problems if the leak isn't fixed. Coolant makes a lousy lubricant and can cause piston ring; cylinder and bearing damage if it gets into a cylinder or the crankcase.

If you have an oil leak, it will be oil fouled. If it is a coolant leak (more likely) your spark plug will be very clean. The coolant literally boils off any dirt and deposits off the spark plug, valves, and piston.

Yes to the above about coolant leaks. A cyl that has had coolant run through it will often have a very clean piston top, the others will be black/sooty in color and have carbon deposits on them.

From Dodge Forum: https://www.turbododge.com/threads/r...-guide.624186/ <---- PLEASE LOOK AT THE SPARK PLUG PHOTOS

My 1986 Ram50 Owners Manual Booklet (specifications page) says 2.0L engine fuel tank 14 gallons & 18 gallon is optional AND 2.6L engine fuel tank 18 gallons... Do 2nd Gen trucks have completely different fuel tanks I dunno..?

Please (for all of us trying to help here) try using a coolant leak fix product before yanking the head & buying parts ~ that way, if it fixes it good enuff, you can thank all of us here (ALSO PLEASE follow the directions on the label to the letter I.O.W. VERBATIM COMPLIANCE) That means if the stop leak product says "for best results" drain old coolant & flush the system & refill with new 50/50 premix and drive 30 miles at 60MPH or faster THEN DO IT..!)

Did ya think to squirt oil in the cylinders on 2nd round of compression testing..? I did not think, I just used a can of fogging oil spray on the one round of compression testing that I did and my results are posted here somewhere at MR50 ~ I never tested without using oil, duh..! I think my results 3 cylinders @ 165PSI and 1 @ 135 or 145PSI

I'm thinking that UNLESS your truck has an obvious gross coolant, oil, engine, transmission, differential or other type of leak OR A BRAKE leak or brake problem or loud as heck knocking sounds THEN it needs to be outfitted with good fuel & new fuel filter & good engine oil & new filter & new air filters 2each & new good coolant & a flushed clean cooling system & new spark plugs that test fired sat on their respective plug wires & ignition initial, vacuum, centrifical advances all tested & adjusted... THEN WHAT YOUR TRUCK NEEDS IS TO BE STARTED WARMED UP (PER THE STOP LEAK PRODUCT INSTRUCTIONS) AND TAKEN OUT ON THE FREEWAY TO A SPEED THAT GETS THE CARBURETOR OUT OF THE IDLE CIRCUIT (The main metering circuit comes into action above fast idle, as airflow through the venturi increases)

Ya gotta get your truck on a good run with engine RPM above 2,000 or more RPM for a good long cruise (25 miles..? at least..?) Try finding an uphill grade and gun it in whatever gear keeps RPM above 2,000 RPM ~ hopefully you also have new fuel with no more than 1/4 tank and you added a bottle or TWO bottles of CATACLEAN (available @ O'Reilly's) then I think your truck has a good fighting chance of not needing major repairs ~ all you can do is try, right..?

Hope you have major success to report & we love photos
P.S. Keep an eagle eye on the gauges ~ they work, right..?
P.P.S. I did one thing different when I took my truck out on the freeway ~ I added 1 qt of Rislone (?) to flush the engine oil to fix noisy tappets and it worked it fixed them ~ then I changed the oil & filter right after the drive...
P.P.P.S. you really should really really should REALLY SHOULD have a new thermostat in your truck right after you flush the cooling system..! YEAH REALLY