Any Tips on Tune Up?

[DJWAMI]

Hey guys, so I got the timing adjusted after installing a new distributor, which was a pain in the ass (I don’t have a timing light). I DID ground the Timing Plug, so good there. It runs now, but not well. I suppose I’ll check on the ECU tomorrow, but beyond the ECU, what else could be causing the misfire? It’s definitely still misfiring.

I've replaced the entire ignition system minus the ignition coil (the screws are completely seized up and three of them stripped as I was trying to get them off).

I was going to replace the coolant temp sensor but they sent me the wrong one. I’m considering putting a new O2 sensor in, but there’s an exhaust leak as well so I don’t how much that would really do.

I cleaned out the EGR Valve, and swapped the TPS.

So I guess, beyond the ECU and ignition coil, would there be any other culprits for the misfire?

[SubGothius]

the screws are completely seized up and three of them stripped as I was trying to get them off

On that tangent, get some Free All penetrant (O'Reilly carries it lately) and a JIS* screwdriver or bit set. Hozan or Vessel brands are good and widely available online. I like my ball-grip Vessel with swappable bits, even came with Pozidriv bits that came in handy for assembling Ikea stuff.

Philips screws/drivers are designed to cam-out as a torque limiter for ease of assembly without stripping threads, but this can lead to stripped heads with repeated dis/reassembly.

JIS screw heads look similar but differ, being designed for a more secure fit between the screw head and driver bit; these often (but not always) have a dimple on the head, so that's a dead giveaway you've got a JIS screw, which is pretty much all of them on these trucks. A Philips driver bit engages these even more loosely than a proper Philips screw head, further contributing to head strip-out.

Nearly anything assembled outside the US will be using JIS or equivalent screws, so having the proper driver/bit will help enormously. Better yet, a JIS driver bit also works better on actual Philips screw heads, and a JIS screw head stripped by a Philips driver/bit may still be recoverable with a JIS driver bit.

*Technically superseded by DIN 5260-PH/ISO 8764-1, but outside the industry ppl still call them JIS anyway as they're nearly-enough identical, and only these newer successor standards are readily available anymore anyway.

[DJWAMI]

On that tangent, get some Free All penetrant (O'Reilly carries it lately) and a JIS* screwdriver or bit set. Hozan or Vessel brands are good and widely available online. I like my ball-grip Vessel with swappable bits, even came with Pozidriv bits that came in handy for assembling Ikea stuff.

Philips screws/drivers are designed to cam-out as a torque limiter for ease of assembly without stripping threads, but this can lead to stripped heads with repeated dis/reassembly.

JIS screw heads look similar but differ, being designed for a more secure fit between the screw head and driver bit; these often (but not always) have a dimple on the head, so that's a dead giveaway you've got a JIS screw, which is pretty much all of them on these trucks. A Philips driver bit engages these even more loosely than a proper Philips screw head, further contributing to head strip-out.

Nearly anything assembled outside the US will be using JIS or equivalent screws, so having the proper driver/bit will help enormously. Better yet, a JIS driver bit also works better on actual Philips screw heads, and a JIS screw head stripped by a Philips driver/bit may still be recoverable with a JIS driver bit.

*Technically superseded by DIN 5260-PH/ISO 8764-1, but outside the industry ppl still call them JIS anyway as they're nearly-enough identical, and only these newer successor standards are readily available anymore anyway.

Theyre stripped bad, I’ll be drilling them out today and replacing them