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Thread: Replacing a bad lifter. Quick rocker question

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    Replacing a bad lifter. Quick rocker question

    Hey guys lurker here, I'm replacing a bad lifter on the cylinder 3 exhaust valve of my 2.0 and was wondering with it being sohc if I can pull the rocker arm assembly without dropping a valve/without shooting compressed air into the cylinder?

  2. #2

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    Quick addition, it's hydraulic lifters and I was under the impression sohc valves have retainers on them so the valve doesn't drop as soon as the rocker is removed. However, I'm concerned about what appear to be the valves for the secondaries. Are these like valves on a pushrod engine or am I just worrying too much?

    Also, where the edit post button?

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    if you are just replacing the lifter than you dont need to worry about removing the valve srping retainers and dropping the valve. the rocker arm assembly will remove as one unit. be sure to take the timing belt off first. also be sure to plug all oil drain ports with a shop rag because when you pull the rocker arms assembly up all those lifters are going to fall out. when putting the new ones in use some clean axle grease. just take a bunch and shove it in the end of the rocker arm then push the lifter in.


    good luck.

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Puddin Tang View Post
    Quick addition, it's hydraulic lifters and I was under the impression sohc valves have retainers on them so the valve doesn't drop as soon as the rocker is removed. However, I'm concerned about what appear to be the valves for the secondaries. Are these like valves on a pushrod engine or am I just worrying too much?

    Also, where the edit post button?
    The valves will stay together. When you remove the timing belt, make sure you have the timing marks set for TDC as it'll save you headaches when you reassemble it (there are 3 of them - crank, balance shaft and cam - you won't have to worry about the secondary balance shaft as it's timed to the crank) You 'may' be able to get away with not removing the timing belt and leaving the cam in place while you remove the rocker rails but it's a gamble. Something to pin the cam down between #3 and #4 valve banks will stop it from trying to lift itself out of the cam bed.

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  5. #5

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    Thanks guys, got it all apart, swapped the lifter, and have it all back together. 1 more question though, I've got a little tick still on the lifter I replaced and one that fell out, and I see that the manual says you need to bleed them. However I cant see the bleed hole, I see the little check ball they have in it (and can't get the damn thing to budge) It is just a little hole in the center of the rocker arm opposite the hole for the lifter correct? Or is this a some engines don't have it sort of situation?

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    Late to the game on this one, but if you loosen the rocker shafts up, you can put a wrap of tape, or a piece of shrink tubing, etc... around the lifter end of the rocker arm before you pull it. This will keep the lifters from falling out, makes installation much easier, and will also keep used lifters from ending up in a different rocker arm.

    Quote Originally Posted by finalfighter View Post
    if you are just replacing the lifter than you dont need to worry about removing the valve srping retainers and dropping the valve. the rocker arm assembly will remove as one unit. be sure to take the timing belt off first. also be sure to plug all oil drain ports with a shop rag because when you pull the rocker arms assembly up all those lifters are going to fall out. when putting the new ones in use some clean axle grease. just take a bunch and shove it in the end of the rocker arm then push the lifter in.


    good luck.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Giovanni89 View Post
    Late to the game on this one, but if you loosen the rocker shafts up, you can put a wrap of tape, or a piece of shrink tubing, etc... around the lifter end of the rocker arm before you pull it. This will keep the lifters from falling out, makes installation much easier, and will also keep used lifters from ending up in a different rocker arm.

    You know none of them actually fell out. Well the intake on cylinder 3 did after i pulled it to check it. But only the 2 I messed with gave me any trouble, and that's from me forgetting grease the first time I slid them in. Pretty sure I have 5 collapsed lifters in it but I can't afford to replace them right now so we'll come back to that. In the mean time I need to figure this bleeding thing out and she should be back on the road. Hoping the ticks I'm getting now are just bleeding those 2 and not the 5 collapsed lifters getting upset that I took the arms off

  8. #8

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    Scratch that, found the hole. Thanks for all your help guys. Just got to bled it hope it shuts up and she's back on the road for now

  9. #9

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    Try an engine flush. It''ll reduce or potentially eliminate noisy hydraulics. I have a write up on the procedure I have used here on the site.
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  10. #10

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    That's on the to do list. Need money for another oil change first, already have the motor flush ready to go. Honestly I'm not putting much in this truck its rusted out has no front suspension beds rusted through on and on the list goes. My brother gave it to me to drive until it goes to the scrap yard

  11. #11

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    Although, Can anyone talk me through bleeding this lifter? There's definitely oil in the lifter but there seems to be a lot of air behind it compared to what came out with the wire while messing with the other valves. I feel like I'm missing something obvious here but I don't want to leave a wire in my rocker while running the engine to let the engine pump oil in, and trying to do it with the engine off has done precisely 0 priming. There's oil in it like I said but it's still noisy and I imagine that's the air compressing behind it before it actually pushes the valve open. Doesn't sound (with the stethoscope) like any of the collapsed lifters are getting too noisy, just the one annoying one.

    I've tried searching the website but only found the haynes manual which doesn't seem to be particularly helpful with this part of the job. If anyone's looking at the same PDF it's on page 100 I believe, a few pages below 94 for sure. Although, to be perfectly honest I'm about to wash my hands with it and go for a 2 hour drive whether it's ticking or not. GF's car needs tires and I can't get them in this little town.

  12. #12

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    Scratch all of it. I apparently forgot to you know, actually drive it when I was done. She's quiet as can be for the shape she's in. Thanks again everyone for all your help

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