Results 1 to 14 of 14

Thread: And there's this....

  1. #1

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    07-13-2012
    Posts
    19
    Location

    Pomeroy, WA
    Vehicle

    1989 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B

    And there's this....

    '89 D-50 with 2.6L. Carb issues yes but, got a clicky lifter?....etc. 240K miles, not a virgin. I love the girl. Head gasketed due to oil leak not long ago. Suggestions welcomed. Dodge should be proud their name is on it.
    Thanks, Lunny

  2. #2

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    5,128
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    Try an engine oil flush. The hydraulics are prone to gumming up at some point and you can almost print money on betting the engine has never been flushed out. I have a method that I've shared with members here on site and has received positive results -

    http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post49688

    Try it out and post results for other members
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  3. #3

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    07-13-2012
    Posts
    19
    Location

    Pomeroy, WA
    Vehicle

    1989 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    I'm going to flush but, my oil cap. is 5.5 US quarts. Your method calls for a 3.6 liter fill which is much less. My '89 is a 2.6L. What mix of oil/fuel do you recommend?
    Thanks, Lunny

  4. #4

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    10-29-2014
    Posts
    1,204
    Location

    Earth, the Solar System
    Vehicle

    1985 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G63B
    You will be fine draining it and the filter, put the old filter back on, add 2 quarts new oil and a half quart of diesel. Drive it a while like normal then drain it, change the filter and add the normal amount of oil. The flush you buy is basically diesel.

  5. #5


    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    05-01-2018
    Posts
    682
    Location

    Kailua, HI
    Vehicle

    1986 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Navy Seabee Construction Mechanics use a cup a diesel every fillup in their gasoline engine cars -- they say it cleans the fuel system -- my 1955 Ford got that cuppa for 2 years and ran fine... Sold it when moving...

    EDIT -- THEY ADDED IT TO THE GAS TANK, NOT CRANKCASE
    Last edited by xboxrox; 09-26-2020 at 12:31 AM.

  6. #6

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    5,128
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    I wouldn't be game to add diesel fuel even at that low mix ratio (says the guy pouring half a litre of it into engine oil and driving it for a day afterwards...) Might have been fine with pre-emissions or way older cars
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  7. #7


    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    08-31-2011
    Posts
    830
    Location

    Calgary, Alberta, Canada
    Vehicle

    1981 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    Ford V8
    Stick Lifters I've always used about a 1/4 quart of ATF added to the existing oil then drive till next oil change. Been doing this for over 30 years on customers and my personal cars to free up stick lifters. Also use Castrol motor oil as its a captive oil (holds onto particulate mater and puts it in the filter) Unlike Quakerstate and pensoil that pushes the fine particles off to the side and then runs down into the oil pan.

  8. #8

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    10-29-2014
    Posts
    1,204
    Location

    Earth, the Solar System
    Vehicle

    1985 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G63B
    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    I wouldn't be game to add diesel fuel even at that low mix ratio (says the guy pouring half a litre of it into engine oil and driving it for a day afterwards...) Might have been fine with pre-emissions or way older cars
    Isn't that your very own method of oil flushing Geez? interwebs say .5 qt = .47L
    Geezer101 says
    O.k. this is how I perform my engine flushes -

    #1. Dump the current oil and drain the filter out as much as possible, then reinstall [the old filter]

    #2. Add 2 litres of fresh oil and add 0.5 litres of diesel fuel, then drive it for the rest of the day (guarantee this will not harm your engine and you should notice lifter noise will reduce within 5-10 mins of driving)

    #3. Leave it overnight, start it again in the morning and bring it up to normal operating temperature (leaving it overnight will allow the diesel to continue to break up gunk in places like the lifters - and the flush oil will look filthy...)

    #4. Dump the flush oil and replace the filter with a new unit, then fill to normal capacity (approx 3.6 litres - if you know your engine is tired now would be the best time to go up to a heavier weight oil)

    I've been doing this to mine and wifey's car (both of which are Hyundais and are notorious for noisy hydraulics) and not only has significantly quietened them down but has extended the life of the oil and has had no adverse issues.

  9. #9


    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    05-01-2018
    Posts
    682
    Location

    Kailua, HI
    Vehicle

    1986 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Running 3 cars NO OIL & NO COOLANT
    https://youtu.be/zyejT4VPzlE

    ENGINES EITHER WON'T DIE OR TAKE FOREVER DOING IT IF THE COOLANT IS NOT REMOVED -- HECK YOU COULD PROBABLY RUN 50% DIESEL IN CRANKCASE -- JUST WORRY ABOUT FIRE

  10. #10

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    5,128
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    Quote Originally Posted by 85Ram50 View Post
    Isn't that your very own method of oil flushing Geez? interwebs say .5 qt = .47L
    Geezer101 says
    O.k. this is how I perform my engine flushes -

    #1. Dump the current oil and drain the filter out as much as possible, then reinstall [the old filter]

    #2. Add 2 litres of fresh oil and add 0.5 litres of diesel fuel, then drive it for the rest of the day (guarantee this will not harm your engine and you should notice lifter noise will reduce within 5-10 mins of driving)

    #3. Leave it overnight, start it again in the morning and bring it up to normal operating temperature (leaving it overnight will allow the diesel to continue to break up gunk in places like the lifters - and the flush oil will look filthy...)

    #4. Dump the flush oil and replace the filter with a new unit, then fill to normal capacity (approx 3.6 litres - if you know your engine is tired now would be the best time to go up to a heavier weight oil)

    I've been doing this to mine and wifey's car (both of which are Hyundais and are notorious for noisy hydraulics) and not only has significantly quietened them down but has extended the life of the oil and has had no adverse issues.

    That's my oil flush - NOT a fuel additive. It should at least affect engine knock as diesel requires compression to burn (a cup in a full tank of regular gas - probably not likely) but how it gets atomised etc and what it does to injectors/fuel pumps designed for gas
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  11. #11

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    10-29-2014
    Posts
    1,204
    Location

    Earth, the Solar System
    Vehicle

    1985 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G63B
    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    That's my oil flush - NOT a fuel additive. It should at least affect engine knock as diesel requires compression to burn (a cup in a full tank of regular gas - probably not likely) but how it gets atomised etc and what it does to injectors/fuel pumps designed for gas
    Duh, I read Xbox post before I posted too. Completely missed what you were referring to. My Bad.

  12. #12


    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    05-01-2018
    Posts
    682
    Location

    Kailua, HI
    Vehicle

    1986 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Per camoit's suggestion to clean carb parts, I used Techron and it was effective (+ a wire brush) and was 98% what Navy CMs said: "diesel is nothing but fuel injector cleaner without perfume"
    Watch the video linked in my previous post, can't kill Japanese engines..! (Unless both oil & coolant are removed) YouTube has engine killing vids with only the oil removed and those engines run forever without oil (the Japan engines) Be brave & use a commercial engine cleaning product, cost is about the same IMHO

    Wished my engine would behave

  13. #13

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    5,128
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    Quote Originally Posted by xboxrox View Post
    ...was 98% what Navy CMs said: "diesel is nothing but fuel injector cleaner without perfume"
    I'll add that to my list of tips and tricks And @ 85Ram - all good
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  14. #14

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    10-29-2014
    Posts
    1,204
    Location

    Earth, the Solar System
    Vehicle

    1985 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G63B

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •