How to determine???

[geezer101]

OMG. You can join the line with WarStryker of members who have had no luck with getting their truck sorted I actually haven't seen a throw out bearing with a die cast body before. Every one that I've seen has a pressed steel body. The perches/shoulders on the new TOB look shorter too. Even if you get it to go in, I think it'll still struggle to disengage the clutch properly...

[85Ram50]

Thanks. I missed that one. I just sent another email this time to the email who told me my part was delivered. I sent the third pic to them so they can see it too. I'm about ready to put the old one back in.

[85Ram50]

This morning the old clutch and pressure plate bolted right up with no problems at all. I am having a heck of a time sliding the transmission back on though.
Last night the website message got a reply, I sent them a picture too. Took a break this morning and the email I sent direct was responded to and I have a shipping label in email from FedEx with RMA number on it as well. I wonder what the deal is with my transmission and throw out bearings?

Edit- Got the transmission and cross member on. Tightened the clutch cable, put shifter back on, it felt good on the pedal. I quit because of the heat 90 and climbing. Tomorrow the driveshaft and starter then test drive.

[geezer101]

90 is comfortable lol. We've been getting temps up to 116! And the weather is cold and wet now where I am. Getting a transmission up and on is tricky. Really need at least 2 jacks to raise and level the engine + trans. Once you have it aligned, it'll almost leap onto the back of the engine. There's a couple of anomalies with these truck transmission combos. Nobody has been able to nail down what trucks have which offset throw out bearing and clutch assemblies installed. I know how to identify 1/2 ton and 1 ton load trucks but I'm not sure if this has anything to do with the clutch thing...

[85Ram50]

I been spoiled weather wise for a few years. The trick was rocking it in the horizontal plane. As soon as I went back out it slid in to being 1 inch from home. so I grabbed the tail and put my palm on the bell and wiggled it until it slammed home. It was aligned fine I just couldn't get the right grip to shove it straight in.

[85Ram50]

Ok got her back together. Clutch works fine. I have a new noise probably from the drive shaft. Does the Center bearing have a up and down side? I think I put it in upside down or I got the tail piece 180 out as it sounds like the shaft is grinding or rubbing. In fact when I stopped I thought I was dragging something as that is what it sounded like.
Edit- My service manual doesn't mention anything about up or down side on the center bearing.

[85Ram50]

OK I found out what it is, the cup on the tail shaft of the transmission and the cup on the drive shaft rubbing against each other.
Anyone know the correct name for these parts?
The trans cup is depicted in the FSM diagram but they do not name it. I think it must be out of round from me moving it about. I tried hammering it and made it better but it is still rubbing.

[85Ram50]

No one has had this problem or knows what the parts are called?

Edit- OK on the slip yoke it is called the Dust Cap. And one of the manuals I am browsing on here page 89 for what looks like a 4WD Dust Seal cap. I would assume all the others before it that don't have a listing are also the same. After that listing they call it dust shield guard.
Spoke to a transmission shop the guy says there is no method other than to try to get it back to round. I will go to the local CC wood shop to see if they will turn me a piece of wood to hammer into it.

[FMS88]

My FSM lists them as dust seal guards. On the center bearing, I can't find anything that specifies a top or bottom. I mount it with the round hole pointed down. It looks like any water that gets inside will drain more easily that way. If the mounting "ears" have tabs at their ends that are bent at 90 degrees, I point the tabs down. Most after market bearings don't have the tabs.
Congrats on getting clutch in and operating properly.

[85Ram50]

My center bearing has the ears on it. I had it in right. I got the contact for the community college shop guy and sent him a message. I talked to a wood turner she said about $15 to turn it. OD of the shield is 3 54/64ths at the wide end.

[xboxrox]

You'll fix it I am sure & them college machinists deserve $20 if you give em the part to fix (assuming it comes off?)

[geezer101]

Those yoke covers are only pressed on. You don't want to distort the end that presses onto the transmission extension or you'll never get it to fit back on. You could get away with just knocking it off, but it's there to protect the yoke and joint and prevent oil from being sprayed all over the place if the extension housing end seal fails.

[85Ram50]

I futzed with it some more. I used a 3" pipe and hammered on it to round out the obvious flats. Then based on Geezers info I tapped on the cup and it moves a bit. I notice you can feel the spot it touches when you have your finger right over it and also discovered the reciprocating dust cover on the slip yoke is also out of round. I got it to where it wasn't making noise turning it manually and went for a drive. It is still making noise so I went down to the wood turning lady with my drawing and she will be getting back to me in a couple days. I am probably going to make a 2 piece thing out of wood for the slip yoke cup. This is it before I started.

[xboxrox]

One good thing the bottom of your truck looks practically rust free

[85Ram50]

One good thing the bottom of your truck looks practically rust free

PO had allowed a lot of oil to leak or did some very sloppy pouring of it. Everything under there is coated in oil and dirt over whatever undercoat was on it. When I take the driveshaft off again tomorrow I will remove the dust guard off the transmission so I can just fix it on the bench. I think I may cut the dust guard on the slip yoke back too.

[geezer101]

The collar on the yoke is pressed on too. A tap with a hammer and it'll come off.

[85Ram50]

I have it off the output shaft. Measures 3 3/4 at its base. The guy at drivetrain .com says he doesn't have one, I should look in wrecking yards and that it's not necessary. I am committed to making it work as it was built if I can. I didn't look close at the yoke but I have the impression it's welded.
Note the 3" ABS pipe fits snug in the slip yoke dust shield. If I had a piece of steel 3" pipe I could hammer it good to make sure its round.

[85Ram50]

Got her done. The wood turning lady's lathe broke just as she was close to finishing it. It worked fine as is. I tapped it in with a hammer then used the vice to slowly push it all the way in. I tapped the cup on the yoke all the way around it just to be sure. Put the cup back on the trans and the driveshaft back in. manually moved it around to make sure it was seated right. It was up in the air so I started it and put it in first and let it run gave it some gas. No scraping first time.
New tick, the truck doesn't always turn over first try. It clicks in the engine bay somewhere. It happens a couple times then it starts. I'm not sure if its the "new to em" turn signal unit or what.
No pics I let the battery run down on the cam.

EDIT- I forgot to mention I applied heat to the dust cover. I cranked it in about 1/4 then heated up the metal all the way round. It made cracking sounds. Couldn't tell if it was the metal stretching or the wood cracking. The wood is slightly burnt and shiny all the way round where it was iner.

[xboxrox]

85Ram50 good job, ya cleaverly fixed it... So, now it's time to find sumpin else needing repair Ram50 starters have the starter selenoid mounted on the starter motor (right?) maybe it's the source of the clicking..? Did you ever replace the ignition switch (I can't remember)..? If not, try quickly flicking the key in various manners & various torquing pressures/directions to see if there is a sweet spot to starting on 1st try...

Aloha to All --

[geezer101]

A win on the yoke cover thingy cup. Nice The mystery tick? Low battery cranking amps, ignition relay or the starter solenoid as suggested by xboxrox?

[85Ram50]

I forgot to mention I heated up the dust cover while driving the wood mold into it.
This is a new flywheel new starter situation, not that a new starter couldn't be bad. "Starting Issues" thread I changed out the turn signal and wiper control with one from the JY. Reconnected a wire that burnt up at the mating point on the old one. My idea is old wiring in general being old. Might be that tiny piece of plastic that fell out when I removed the ig switch to look it over.

Edit I drove it a bit and it shifts nicer and seems smoother and did not get hot. I thought the gauges had failed again but the fuel tank was full and the temp was all the way over left. When I stopped before I shut it down I was resetting the radio it started to get warm. Maybe that pin missing and rounded over ring gear from the other flywheel wasn't the only thing wrong with it.

[xboxrox]

Might be that tiny piece of plastic that fell out when I removed the ig switch to look it over.

What if your truck was used on average 300 days or 300 times each year for the last 35 years..? A typical daily use might mean using the ignition switch at least 4 times maybe more... One start & one stop to point A then again one start & one stop back home to point B basically (assuming) 4 switchings if the truck got used in any given day... A to B to A = 4 switchings

300 days
X4 switchings
-----------
1,200 yearly switchings

1,200 year
X 35 years
-----------
42,000 estimated current switchings

Even though your truck was built to high quality standards by skilled dedicated crafstman, the switch could be getting tired/brittle plastic/worn contacts, yada, yada... Add to that all the tired wiring you see multiplies the resistance & compromises the continuity overall, yeah... New switches are probably a better design made with (possibly) better materials & better engineering too... Vintage products just don't compare to brand new 2020 technology, we know that, yeah... So, it might take a combination of fixes to cure the tick no start every 1st try..?
1) flywheel teeth
2) new starter
3) new wiring
4) new battery
5) inspect clean or replace starter relay
6) replace the ignition switch with a new unused Mitsubishi part (not J/Y)

Thank you for reading this far & NOT getting pissed at my rant / lecture / yada, yada (who am I anyway, nobody...) I got to thinking that IF my carburetor actually gets fixed & was actually the problem THEN my truck might actually run again AND not have any gasoline leaks... Lesson Learned, at the first sign of that 1st gas leak the carburetor should have been rebuilt and not patch work fixed... We broke the phenolic plastic fuel bowl throttle body tinkering with just trying to fix the accelerator pump diaphragm that was leaking gas... And we tried it with the carburetor ON the truck, Vernon said the carb would have to be unbolted/removed to replace that diaphragm, so true, now I believe... Well, the BIG lesslon learned is that because we broke it we had to replace it, used a J/Y carburetor... Worked good for a while, the truck even gained power and a passing gear..! Well, the J/Y carb gave up the ghost & it's back to square one to FINALLY try rebuilding the carburetor... And, if it don't work, I will try rebuilding a 2nd Mikuni carburetor... And, if that don't work, we will either get another vehicle or [surprise?] the wife might let me spend another $500 for professionaly rebuilt carburetor... Long story short is: "Because of being forced to rebuild the damn Mikuni part; the truck won't ever be driving around with a one barrel carburetor anymore..." Whew, what a workout..! Working on the truck 'n carburetor crap is easier than all this typing & composition..! In geezer's own eBay voice BleH...

Wasted Enuff Time this Time & Thank you for your Time this Time, it's about Time to go work on the truck
Lay tah --
George

[85Ram50]

AFAIK there is no ignition relay in this vehicle. The part on RA does not look like anything I have seen on my truck. IDK where I'd get an ignition switch.
Here is a picture of the tool I used to get the dust shield back to round. Edit- I think it is actually a 1/16 or 1/8th bigger than I ordered which I am fine with. It worked first time no adjustment.

[geezer101]

I'm sure the trucks run a bypass relay that kills accessories and lights etc while cranking so it doesn't send the battery into orbit meh, could be wrong...

[85Ram50]

I'm sure the trucks run a bypass relay that kills accessories and lights etc while cranking so it doesn't send the battery into orbit meh, could be wrong...

Xbozrox hooked me up in a PM to a dealer who may be able to get me a switch. I contacted them and asked about the multi switch too. I guess I am going to have to figure out how the wiring is layed out so I can make sure all the wires I need are in good shape. I think my battery is fine I did have it tested at the battery store when I was going though the starting issues thread. I suspect my alternator and the wiring. But I'll be happy if the ignition switch fixes the issue. I hates electrical intermittances....