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Thread: Jax Turbo Max

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  1. #1

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    Jax Turbo Max

    100_0376 (Small).jpg100_0381 (Small).jpg100_0438 (Small).jpg100_0383 (Small).jpgYou guys can check the old board for the beginning of this thread. Ive got some new plans for upgrading the turbo to a big 16g td05h I just picked up. Some new paint should come along in the next few months. Ive had some new ball joints for a while now but havent put them in. I want to go ahead and replace all the bushings while I am at it since its squeaking. Hopefully some new coil springs as well...mine are saggy.

  2. #2


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    The big 16g turbo fits without modification to your starion manifold? A lot of people on dsmtuners claim the evo 3 16g outflows the big 16g turbo. Just a little curious on your choice of upgrade.

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    thats a fairly clean truck you got there.....ill be tuned into this one..

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4doorciv View Post
    The big 16g turbo fits without modification to your starion manifold? A lot of people on dsmtuners claim the evo 3 16g outflows the big 16g turbo. Just a little curious on your choice of upgrade.
    Slight modification for the turbo. I can either send out my starion turbine housing and have it machined to fit the 16g exhaust wheel ( which will let me keep my existing downpipe) or I can make a new downpipe and use the 16g turbine housing. The starion manifold has about the same bolt pattern. There are a few ways to go about it. I need to reclock the compressor housing so that it points the right way and do some mods to the oil/water cooler lines.

    Im not overly concerned about the flow rates. Not sure what the difference is. Its already a big upgrade for me since I only have a stock 12a on there now. I have already installed new injectors and a walbro 255 fuel pump. I picked up the turbo used and its an actual mitsu turbo...not some ebay stuff. A direct bolt on turbo would have been a lot more$$$. Trying to make big power with the g54b is much easier with mpi and before I go through all that I would just go 4g63 twin cam. There is a much larger aftermarket support and parts availability for the eclipse stuff. I have a 2.4 shortblock my buddy is trying to get me to put his turbo eclipse head on.

    I never really planned on a turbo truck.....just kinda happened. If you talk to enough gearhead mechanics you are bound to find a deal you cant pass up. Thats how I ended up with the starion engine.

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    Deals always pop up. I scored lots of cheap stuff to free stuff from friends I delt with in the past, and new friends I came across that needed parts I had laying around collecting rust. Keep us posted on how your turbo upgrade goes. Oh, and nothing wrong with a 2.4/2.0 swap in the future. I'm happy with the way my truck performed before it crapped out.

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    Parts on the way! I ordered a new pair of Moog coil springs. Got the Energy Suspension bushings also. Lower control arm, sway bar bushings with endlinks, strut bar bushings, and rear leaf spring bushings. Mine are way past due. The rubber is coming apart in chunks and squeeks like crazy.

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    sweet man sounds like that thing will be riding nice..... i like your truck

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    You can get a temp sensor that straps to the upper rad hose or the thermostat housing - never tried one but I looked at them several times. I'm running an adjustable fan control that I can adjust from the dash with a knob; it has a probe pushed in the fins.
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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    You can get a temp sensor that straps to the upper rad hose or the thermostat housing - never tried one but I looked at them several times. I'm running an adjustable fan control that I can adjust from the dash with a knob; it has a probe pushed in the fins.
    yeah when I bought my fan I got the relay kit separate. It had one of those temp probes that sticks in the radiator fins but I didnt like the way it fit.
    Seemed to me it didnt come on till way late. Id like for it to operate properly and not be running while the truck is still warming up. I have a 180 degree thermostat and I figured I would get a switch to come on about that temp. That is how the starion one is setup anyway.

  10. #10

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    are you running any emission stuff with your swap? I used one of the ports on the intake manifold for my fan switch. I used the one that the egr solenoid switch used (sensor with 2 plastic nipples).

  11. #11

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    used #2 port for fan switch

    #1 - M16 x 1.5
    #2 - 3/8" NPT pipe thread
    #3 - 3/8" NPT pipe thread
    #4 - 1/8" NPT pipe thread.
    Last edited by turbomax; 04-23-2011 at 08:47 PM.

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by turbomax View Post


    used #2 port for fan switch

    #1 - M16 x 1.5
    #2 - 3/8" NPT pipe thread
    #3 - 3/8" NPT pipe thread
    #4 - 1/8" NPT pipe thread.
    Currently have port #2 filled with the temp sensor for my aftermarket temp gauge. The starions had the relay temp switch screwed into the bottom of the radiator . I saw an old caravan that way also and was hoping to do the same.

  13. #13

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    Our trucks don't have bungs in the radiator, but you could take it to a radiator shop and probably have one welded on. I put my starion temp switch in port 2 to for my fans. You could also try buying a hose adapter that splices into the upper radiator hose and screw the sensor into the adapter. Should be able to find one on ebay.

    Also, if your not running AC you could try port #4.
    Last edited by turbomax; 04-25-2011 at 04:24 PM.

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    With a reducer, you can probably get away without tapping 4, if you want to put the switch there.

  15. #15

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    Well my egr valve has been acting up. The spring is getting weak and it opens when its not supposed to causing a rough idle. Went ahead and picked up a block off plate from ebay.
    Attached Images

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    nice....little dress up and problem solver...

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    I usually buy a shingle from home depot for like a dollar can use tin snips and a drill for the bolt holes. Also, turns this into a washer that sandwiches between the egr and intake manifold.

  18. #18

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    Energy suspension bushings and new coil springs installed. Time for some new shocks. My old coils were well worn and now my front end sits a little more level and doesnt scrape the fenders when I hit bumps. I had some belltech performance drop shocks on the front....probably not the best idea to have drop shocks without the drop coils since they dont have as much travel. The shock that was matched to the sagging spring is blown out. Im probably gonna get some kyb or tokico for the front and not sure about the rear. I have 3 inch drop blocks so I want some drop shocks but Im thinking of air shocks in case I want to put a load in the bed and not bottom out.

    I should have changed out all the bushings years ago. They had worn so badly that metal was contacting on the shafts and removing material. Now its all nice and tight. No squeaking. I changed out the rear shackle bushings for the leaf springs no problem but the front eyelet bushing in the kit didnt look like it would fit correctly. The old ones were still in decent shape so I left them alone.

    The front sway bar bushing brackets didnt fit very well either so I took the new bushings and installed with the old brackets.

    I did take pics but for some reason my camera wouldnt give them to the computer. Selfish electronics piss me off. Or maybe it was the computer that wouldnt take them from the camera. Stubborn computers need a ho slap. Then theres always operator error.

  19. #19

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    Ive been trying to score a set of mono leaf springs to replace my sagging ones. I want to have them installed and check my final ride height before I set up the rear sway bar.

    I took the sway bar and brackets, knocked the loose rust off with a wire wheel and grinder. Then I let them soak overnight in some evaporust. It loosens the old paint a little and dissolves the rust.
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    How hard was it changing out lower control arm bushings? Did you use a spring compressor to take out the coils?

  21. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by 85d50austin View Post
    How hard was it changing out lower control arm bushings? Did you use a spring compressor to take out the coils?
    The bushings aren't fun to change. Used a jack stand under the frame with a floor jack under the lower control arm to take out the coils. There might be a write-up around this site somewhere. Gotta be real careful with a big spring under pressure.

  22. #22



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    When you're done with your suspension, can you redo mine too? lol

    Seriously though, kick ass progress man. That evapo-rust looks like it does a bang up job. Might have to try that stuff out.
    - Jason
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  23. #23

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    Perfect wheel and tire set-up!

    -RHP

  24. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by parrell456 View Post
    Perfect wheel and tire set-up!

    -RHP
    Thanx man.....it was a trick to get them mounted up. I had bought them off ebay from the previous owner who had already had the hubs machined larger to fit an import truck. The problem was getting the center caps on. The cap has plastic lugs that screw onto threads on the outsideof the lug nuts. Chevrolet style. The full size chevy truck uses a 14mm lug while the max uses a 12mmm......so I had to get inserts for the lug nuts to make them fit. Then I had a sign shop make me sum stickers to cover up the chevy bowtie emblem on the center cap. Id like to get it a little lower but Im not sure the wheels will tuck the front fenders without going negative on my camber and eat up my tires.

  25. #25

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    100_1421.jpg100_1420.jpgBought sum new shocks front and rear. I was happy with the belltechs I had so I bought another set. The driver side was worn out from the weak coil spring. The truck feels way better....nice and firm. They are a lot beefier than the stock shocks and it takes some patience to get them installed. I had to grind the ends a little bit on the lower mount to get it to fit through the hole on the lower control arm. Also, the metal dust cover is too wide to fit so I had to use the original plastic unit with a spacer. The directions say you can run them without the dust shield but I didnt want any more crap getting on the shafts and sitting on the seals. They are supposed to come with a spacer that is used when not installing the shields but they were not in the box. I just used sum washers i had in the garage instead.

    Unfortunately my driver side leaf spring is worn out. I can feel a big difference from the passenger side just by pushing down on the bed. Gotta get that handled before I wear out my new rear shocks.

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