No start

[xboxrox]

HERE IS THE LATEST GUYS:

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...rburetor/page2

[xboxrox]

When removing a Mikuni carb, you have to drain off some coolant to avoid it back spilling into the manifold (don't worry, EVERYONE does it ) Either siphon some from the radiator or have an ice cream bucket etc under one of the manifold hoses (heater bypass hose to manifold base is the best place) and let it drain until you have no coolant pouring out. That way the coolant won't try to back log up through the coolant port under the carb

Got it, will drain coolant...

Question: One of the carburetor coolant water hoses attaches at two places (?) one on the wax pellet hose nipple and curves around to attach at another hose nipple... OK, my question IS can I use a straight piece of coolant hose to replace this "C" shaped bugger or IS it a molded OEM curved piece..? TIA <-- thanks in advance for any replies...

2nd (?) the 2nd hose on the 2nd hose nipple on the wax pellet (I think heads off into the cabin interior through the firewall, heater hose maybe?) my hose there has been cobbled together with plastic nipples & half a dozen hose clamps 'n three or more pieces of hose... It's not leaking (yet) but I think a forum member found a factory hose... Rock Auto has something that could be that hose; their picutre of it shows a bent up "S" shape of that sucker... Is that sucker another OEM available piece..?

TIA for any replies, funny replies appreciated

[xboxrox]

See if you can find some joy here George https://www.nationalcarburetors.com/...itsutruck.html

They emailed me that they only rebuild carburetors & do not sell parts, thanks for the link 85Ram50...

I did find some joy here today https://www.carburetor-parts.com/ I just ordered the little filter screen that attaches to the needle seat assy...

[geezer101]

Use hose off the roll. The chances of you finding the OEM carb coolant recirculation lines are pretty slim (hose off the roll will be cheaper anyway...) I have used heater hoses from other cars to make it all work. I took the hoses I had into a parts store and compared them to what was jammed in their racks. One hose was definitely off a late 80's Nissan Pulsar - I had to cut it down but it fitted perfectly once I lopped off the superfluous end. I should've written down what the donor for the 'S' hose was. I probably did enter it on a post but it would take me centuries to find it

[85Ram50]

[xboxrox]

I been posting about fixing this NO START problem here:
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...uni-carburetor

[xboxrox]

IT STARTED & IT RUNS

[xboxrox]

Just ordered Performance Tool W80578 -- maybe it will fix a high idle speed issue in my DIY rebuilt Mikui carb ?

[geezer101]

Here are the risks with setting idle. First - it has to be off the carb throttle stop. Wind the stop out and then wind it back in until it hits the throttle linkage. Start it and see what the idle is like. If it's too high and the timing is showing a lot of advance, there's your problem. If you try adjusting idle off the distributor, it'll end you (not pointing a finger directly at you, but a workshop that had no idea has meddled with your ride and most have zero idea about old school). This is a noob mistake that ends in a death spiral of not being able to get the engine to run right. Once you have determined that the advance is the culprit, back it off until it's in the ball park and check idle rpm and reset the throttle stop. I'd get a hand held dwell/tach meter as well. This is a more useful tuning tool than the timing light (timing light is fine for diagnostics as it'll tell you if something is screwy with idle timing or you have an ignition fault but you can achieve better results with a vac gauge and a dwell/tach meter)

Your timing light has good reviews so that is good to go. I've used a Lucas timing light and it was 'interactive' - I got continuous shocks from using it and then something happened and it stopped working after I threw it out the garage door

I found this on ebay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/3022-EQUUS-...gAAOSwX7JbFb-9

I have 2 of those timing lights and they are solid (they also have a built in spot light so you can see where you're about to aim it) The posting is misleading as it's pre-owned and the only thing new is the 9v battery supplied with the dwell tach meter

[xboxrox]

geezer you da man

Gonna do my homework now teacher !?!

[xboxrox]

UPDATE ~ fiddled with the truck tonight, plugged off the dist vacuum hose, engine started ok but never fully warmed up ~ idle RPM 1025 initial ign timing 22° BTDC ~ adjusted distributor to 7° BTDC resulting in idle speed 915 to 925 RPM ~ idle adjusting screw fully backed out ~ kinda fun using our new timing light & laser tachometer ~ we have a new vacuum gauge, vacuum pump and butane torch to also use sometime to find a fix to lower the idle speed ~ the mfg tune up sticker on the hood calls for idle speed (manual trans over 300 miles) 750 +/- 100 RPM & 7°BTDC ignition timing ~ I must tweek the Mikuni carb at least check the TPS readings at idle & WOT it can be adjusted ~ I did not make any adjustments on the carb doing the rebuild MY BAD

Comments Anyone ?

[geezer101]

So you nailed it George? The initial advance was waaay too aggressive which was what I suspected. Guys are surprised at what the factory warm idle should be set at. Even I think that it should be at least 850 rpm as going lower will risk oil pressure in a worn engine...
Learning how to use diagnostic tools old school style is cool

[xboxrox]

So you nailed it George? The initial advance was waaay too aggressive which was what I suspected. Guys are surprised at what the factory warm idle should be set at. Even I think that it should be at least 850 rpm as going lower will risk oil pressure in a worn engine...
Learning how to use diagnostic tools old school style is cool

Hey THANKS geezer
Yes you was right about the timing advance 'b u t' Not so much "Nailed it" more like "Stapled it" the idle speed screw might fall off, I better check it yuk yuk yuk ~ Progress is slow but steadily improving ~ the poor engine died & it took 3 months & 6 surgeries & a complete heart transplant just to bring it back to life ~ the patient will need several more weeks or even months of tweeking therapy before it can walk or run again ~
Old school is OK but pushing buttons & ciphering codes is way better but not always more fun (;¿)

[xboxrox]

Distributor vacuum advance quit working ~ installed new vacuum advance actuator unit & truck is running mighty mighty fine like a mighty max should