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Thread: 79 Dodge D-50 Sport, start/run issues

  1. #26

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    The pump was optioned for carbs that don't run a direct return to the fuel tank. That port hasn't been drilled out or tapped on the fuel pump. If the choke is open cold, the auto choke has failed. It'll run without the choke function but starting it cold will be a drag. Is your carb an all alloy Mikuni Solex? This is going to sound like the voice of doom but you are going to have a problem finding another one of those carbs. You can swap to a later one, but to save you headaches try to find one from an 85 or earlier as the later Mikuni has all of these control solenoids on it that will be a nightmare to get operational on your engine. Now may be the time to think about a Weber swap.
    I built a tricked up Solex carb and gave it to a friend - it's probably a desk ornament now
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  2. #27

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    I.D.K.?
    I believe it is an alloy mikuni, yes. As of now, I'll start looking at doing the weber swap, what type would it be again? & what issues will this eliminate?

    I have to say I've expanded my mechanical abilities tenfold thanks to you all & my d50, I really have to spread the love when I become a 1st gen expert when I grow up haha!!

  3. #28

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    Why a Weber - a way less complicated carb to work on. They are a big improvement on fuel economy and performance. They are the same price as a rebuilt/replacement Mikuni 32-35DIDT carb (you will need to factor in an adapter kit to mount it to the Mitsubishi intake manifold, the electric fuel pump + I would add a relay kit with an inline/inbuilt fuse to reduce current draw on the ignition system and protect the electrics from an overload or short). The Weber is a good spring board for performance and works best with the usual stand by mods for an engine - headers, exhaust, porting and a wider duration cam. You should be able to make 120hp+ with a 38DGES carb (the original stand by choice was the 32/36DFEV but more guys are choosing the newer 38). There are some other simple mods you can add to the package to improve throttle response and help defend the engine from it's #1 enemy - heat. The cooling system in these things is a little 'iffy' and any improvement is worth while...
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  4. #29

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    I.D.K.?
    Thanks for the info geezer101, would it be this one... https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...0aAiY7EALw_wcB

  5. #30

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    In the meantime, I checked the resistance on my plug wires this morning, and realized that 2 & 3 were swapped. Once I traded those two, I turned the d50 over & she did her best since this all started. Still rough idling/ lurching & low power it seems. Everything looks like it's in slow motion. I tied off that vacuum unit with the broken barb & plugged it at the carb. I replaced the coil for the hell of it. I removed the egr valve & now am in the process of cleaning it. Anything else I can do during this process? I'm planning to take a look into the exhaust manifold & cat to make sure that they aren't all clogged up, I heard that was a thing. Correct me if I'm a moron.

  6. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by Onehairysalad View Post
    Thanks for the info geezer101, would it be this one... https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...0aAiY7EALw_wcB
    Yep, that's the 32/36 Weber carb but you need one with a K610 optioned install kit. It'll have the base adapter plate and the throttle link/cable brackets. The original $788 price tag is a little optimistic lol.
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  7. #32

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    The plug leads being swapped are a worry. This is when I'd be checking everything - plug gaps, timing, throttle stop on the carb, how much adjustment you have on the distributor etc. It is easy for a novice to start 'adjusting' things just because it seems like it's affecting how the engine is running and then you are miles away from where you need to be. If the distributor has no advance in one direction or another it may have been installed out a tooth, or worse - 180 degrees out (it's closer to 170ish degrees as the distributor drive gear has an odd number of teeth) Check if you can accumulate pressure at the exhaust with your hand (not a super accurate way especially if you know the system is shot and need replacing). A blocked cat will stall out an engine so you are not a potato. Also check things like accelerator cable slack/adjustment. I've seen them with HUGE amounts of slack and winding the adjuster out can instantly gain lost power. This will be something minor you are looking for. You'll get it eventually
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  8. #33

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    I.D.K.?
    Will go through and check the small things. I slapped on the egr valve this morning, & some new vacuum lines. I'm also running techron through the tank. Idle is the same, when I press the accelerator, the truck stalls out. I know I will find the issue eventually. I just bought online spark testers as well.

  9. #34

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    I.D.K.?
    Quick question, dont know if its a dumb one, but all logic is pretty skewed at this point. I was taking a look in my Haynes manual, and I noticed the distributor rotation diagrams, which show the 2.6L to have the #1 plug location on the lower left hand side of the distributor cap. When looking at my distributor cap, my #1 is located in the upper left hand side. The only memory Id have of the original position of the cap is lost forever as I had bumped it & knocked it off when I was changing the t-stat. I assumed there was only one way for it to sit though, so this is how I've installed it. Somebody please explain this illustration to me!!!20200706_215028.jpg

  10. #35

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    Someone screwed up when they installed the leads. It'll run, but if you have to reset the distributor this could sabotage you badly. As long as you maintain the plug firing order you won't have issues. I would swap the leads to the factory locations so you are 100% sure of #1 plug firing on TDC with the rotor in the correct position.
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  11. #36

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    Based on the photo, bottom of page being the right side and as long as the description applies to your truck the black dot is #1 cylinder. If you face your dist from the driver side the bottom left is it.

  12. #37



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    OK. Lets start with the easy stuff. Set the engine crank on the timing mark so you know the #1 piston is up.
    Then remove the dist cap and look to see where the rotor is pointing. Then you can "assume" that the rotor is pointing at #1 or #4.
    In knowing this you can hook up the wires in the firing order 1,3,4,2 and it starts great you got it. If it backfires it's out 180 deg.
    If that happens then just swap around the wires on the cap. Move 1 to 4 and start over.

    As for the broken thing. If it has only 1 port and not 2 it's the AC idle up solenoid. It's on the firewall next to the wiper motor.
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  13. #38

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    Dammit! Well back to the drawing board. If somebody is in the central valley CA, you are welcome to stop by & get some eyeballs on it, I'll have a case of beer for you!!! I'm super frustrated, it's been a month and a half and a few too many bills to keep on it.

  14. #39

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    I.D.K.?
    When I set TDC, the rotor sits in 2 positions, at the 10:00 & at the 5:00. I tried swapping the leads so that lead 1 was at the 7:00 per the diagram, but the motor didn't even turn over. So, Camoit, I will tinkwr with the leads & cap, and give you all an update when I'm finished.

  15. #40

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    This is what my motor looks like right now.https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7QYJzzTOLJQ

  16. #41

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    That vid looks like its mirror imaged or do you have a foreign D50?
    Anyway the rotor should only go on to the distributor one way. It should not have two positions.
    If you are at TDC on the compression stroke and the dist is not at #1 it may be installed incorrectly. To know I am at TDC on compression I have used tissue at teh top of #1 cylinder to see it be pushed out by the air from the piston coming up or while wearing nitrile gloves sticking my finger in there and hearing the air make the glove squeak as it escapes. You can rotate the motor to TDC twice in one full cycle. One is exhaust one is compression.
    Edit- When I put it at TDC compression I remove all of the spark plugs so it is easy to turn and get right. You can't turn the motor backwards, if yo pass the TDC mark you have to go all the way through to the next cycle.
    Last edited by 85Ram50; 07-07-2020 at 04:39 PM.

  17. #42


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    Quote Originally Posted by Onehairysalad View Post
    This is what my motor looks like right now.https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7QYJzzTOLJQ
    Mask-up

  18. #43

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    That is a full blown timing problem - it is knocking itself to death. Take a pic of the distributor as it is now and post it up. Maybe a keen eye will spot what is going on with the advance/retard on the distributor and you can begin to unravel the issue.
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  19. #44

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    Okay, this is at TDC, plugs are gapped, wires are all correct. Cap is sitting where it sits. Don't trip on the second coil that's just a test coil that I haven't swapped back yet. Please take a look guys & let your tinkering minds go wild.IMG_20200708_200257.jpgIMG_20200708_200345.jpgIMG_20200708_200354.jpgIMG_20200708_200425.jpgIMG_20200708_200548.jpgIMG_20200708_200600.jpg

  20. #45

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  21. #46

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    Ok it's not exactly @ TDC (closer to 7 degrees BTDC) and the distributor is sort of pointing @ where #3 cylinder should be firing from

    I think the distributor is way off. I'd be getting a timing light and checking it out (this is about the only time I use a timing light now...) My guess is the timing is really advanced. Turn the crank to TDC 0 degrees, get a white marker and put a little dot on the body of the distributor that is as close as you can get to the leading edge of the rotor contact and install the cap to compare where the mark is VS distributor cap plug lead post is. If the mark is to the right of it, the timing is advanced. Left of the mark is retarded timing. Another test is just start the engine in a garage at night and kill the lights - look for misfires. If it's not obvious, use a hand trigger spray bottle full of water and lay a few fine mist sprays over the plug lead paths. Orange or reddish electrical arcs = high voltage leak. Misfires and ignition timing tests aren't specific to these engines and any method described online will generally help you diagnose a problem. Luckily the ignition systems in our trucks are fairly simple.
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  22. #47

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    Okay, so today I took a quick look before I even had my coffee, ( I have a deal with my wife that truck time is when the whole fam is comatose), so I went to actual TDC, I thought 7° BTDC was how I was supposed to set it. I cranked it, and still nothing. I marked the distributor like you said & rotor terminal is nuts on the #1 lead post. Something definitely isn't right here with the timing, & it may be beyond my feeble mechanical mind. If the ignition system is really that cut & dried, I can't find where I goofed. On a side note, I was taking a look around for any damaged wires & I found a leaky ectoplasmic mess in the cab next to the a/c vents by the steering column side, not sure what that is either...IMG_20200709_082923.jpg

  23. #48

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    I have never seen that sort of rotor and my distributor sits in there with the vacuum advance on the bottom. The middle T is TDC or zero degrees. Even that little bit off matters a LOT.

  24. #49

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    You've got a bad heater tap and/or the pipes have corroded through. It's not that 'hard' to pull the entire heater box out of a Gen 1. I'd be removing it, give it a huge clean and check over the heater tap and core etc. If it's a heater control valve/tap, not so bad (should be able to scrounge one up) If it's the core or pipework, you've looking for a replacement heater unit (JY hunting time) Pulling the whole box out will allow you to get 4 decades of dog hair and dirt out of it, replace all of the perished foam seals (self adhesive foam insulation on a roll - too easy) and chemical bath the core to get the crud out of it (citric acid powder in hot water - another too easy) Heater hoses will be mix and match. I used one from a 88 Nissan Pulsar and cut it down to length and another smaller 'S' hose from something else off the shelf new. The heater box turned out like new and I managed to adjust all of the control linkages so they snap shut perfectly.
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  25. #50

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    If you remove the heater stay away from the resistor in that piece under where it plugs in top right side. Don't even take the screws out. They are near impossible to find. They are no longer made. I replaced that leaking part on my heater. I got it used from a JY. It is the valve that opens and closes to let water into the heater core.

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