Any ignition power should be connected from the harness side of the coil/ballast (power going in) There already should be an ignition power feed suitable for the carb as the Mikuni needed it for the fuel cut solenoid (it will/should be a female bullet connector black+white stripe unless the PO lopped it off) No random wires hanging off that side of the harness? And that wiper socket looks nasty - water got into it or something...
Xbox I was searching MB031704 which is what came up on several Mitsu sites for the 85 MM. I searched that number you have and I came up with an ignition lock. I was probably missing something. When I get a phone line I'll call your guy. My phone no worky. 19 days today. Still no help the lady I email with is sickeningly polite and unhelpful. Supposedly someone will be fixing the line tomorrow.
Geez, I used that Mikuni fuel cut off wire for the fuel pump and it was hooked up to the starter by that Dodge mechanic. I though the starter wasn't supposed to have always on power? My head hurts.
Edit-Duh I reread your post geez. My brain no worky well today.I was going to hook the starter to the 12v side of the ballast but I could not determine which one was because both indicate 11.8v when the key is on. I think the one on top that gets the b/wstripe wire from the 4 way splice is probably where it should go. The b/wstripe wire that comes from the switch is in the other harness and goes to the other side of the ballast.
Last edited by 85Ram50; 06-10-2020 at 03:45 PM.
It is for the ignition switch https://www.mitsubishipartscentral.c...witch-mb414579Originally Posted by 85Ram50
Hopefully, Gary can find you one... He ordered me an original radiator cap that has both English & Japanese stamped warning on top; he ordered it from Japan, non were available in USA...
OK, you had to pull power for the fuel pump from somewhere and that was a pretty good call. Looks like you're making a fly lead from the ignition switch side of the coil for the electric choke. An eyelet connector on one end and a female spade terminal on the other - too easy
Yes but which is the ignition switch side of the coil
EDIT-
I decided to try to figure out where power to the coil came from with the key on. I removed the wires on the lower ballast resister connection and pulled the blade connector wire off the top pin. I turned on the key and the only wire that had power (12v) was the one in my pictures with the blue boot on it. All of the other wires were dead. That wire comes from the branch of harness I did not open and have assumed comes direct from the ign switch.
I put it all back together with a new improved choke wire and tested with the key on. Both posts on the ballast resister, the pos and neg post on the coil and the outlet from the coil to dist all tested as having 12v. Is this right? Am I using the multimeter wrong or ??? Picture of the multimeter I am using here. I have it set at 20DCV
digimeter.jpg
Last edited by 85Ram50; 06-11-2020 at 08:08 AM.
Nope, nailed it
That helps narrow things down.
It wanted to start but didn't. I made another splice into the power wire for the extra starter wire. It cranks over strong a couple times then loses umph and stops then barely turns over and stops. I had the battery charging and used the 50amp booster on it when trying to start no luck. I just took the battery in to be tested and he told me it was in good shape and fully charged for a 5 year old battery. down to 500 a something from 600 a something new. Cells were good.
So tomorrow, weather allowing, I will try the battery out of my Dakota which has worked before. If that gets it I'll go for a new battery. If not I'll put the other starter in, just in case the this one is what is losing umph while turning over. Oh yea the dash started working again.
Has anyone got a complete set of instructions for putting a higher amp alternator in the first gen? I have the impression from the instruction I read for the 2nd gen, it was exclusively for the second gen because of differences in wiring.
The other battery did not help. I have the starter removed and the other one in with the bottom bolt snug. I stopped as it started raining and I was very wet. Discovered I can lay on the motor with the vale cover off and get one arm down the back and the other around under the intake to deal with that top bolt. Still a pia.
edit- be careful of the metal head gasket its like a razor.
EDIT- Got it in. It cranks over good which means the other starter was defective in spite of how good those brushes looked. No start but it did want to. If I held the key all the way over a couple cylinders fired but it wouldn't sustain a chain reaction. I got soaked again. I will remove the plugs & put it at TDC, check my Cam timing mark then set the timing on the Distributor again and hopefully that will do the trick. Something is slightly off but I can't think of what. I really wish I had never rebuilt that other Weber carb the first time all those years ago!
Last edited by 85Ram50; 06-12-2020 at 01:55 PM.
OK I put it at TDC. Rotor was pointing at #1, the cam timing mark if it is what I think it is (pic attached) is less than 1mm off if it is off at all. I put a level across from the casting mark inside the timing belt gallery. Is that cast line the mark to match the cam too? cam timing mark.jpg
Trying to start it turns over strong then it loses power. It feels like something is catching or the battery is dying. It turns over easy by hand so I am reluctant to think something is broke but I may have lost a rod bearing all those years ago when I blew the head gasket. That would have stopped me by now though wouldn't it? Oil is full. plug gaps good. Spark tested every plug and got spark.
85Ram50 -- is it possible your carburetor is flooding the engine..? Have you already checked for it..?
All else being good electrically on my truck (except for black carbon fouled spark plugs that still surprisingly spark good) the engine will not start... Even shooting starter fluid into the carb air intake did NADA no sputters no trying to start or run DEAD MEAT...
We know damn well it's getting spark & timing is set correctly, distributor is fine... This history & seeing fluid down the carb throat when trying to start the engine has lead us to believe the engine is flooding... YouTube has a ton of videos most naming the common cause as the needle seat is leaking or gas is getting around the seat past an O ring or other seat passage and/or incorrect float level setting... Wished we would have opened the carb before just bolting it on (it came from PicknPull wrecking yard) anyway...
Hey, life is good, the feds & cops are not knocking on my door for anythingand I'm mostly caught up on paperwork & paying bills
Man how I feel your frustration; I gotta wait for RockAuto parts delivery 6/17 & an Amazon ultrasonic cleaner machine delivery 6/23 this one: iSonic Professional Grade Ultrasonic Cleaner P4820-WPB with Heater and Digital Timer, Plastic Basket with shipping it came to $95.00 which is $2.00 less than the Harbor Freight cleaner + having to buy the plastic basket separate at extra cost $97.00...
<---- Pine Sol or Simple Green HD
ooops
Last edited by 85Ram50; 06-14-2020 at 06:42 PM.
Mine has always had puddles of gas in the intake. It never seemed to affect how it ran. The only problems I have had starting it are due to how long I leave it sit. Once it starts it will run and start normally as long as I do it every 3-4 days. I just forget to and.....
Posted so I can look at my old wiring
SAM_0702.jpg SAM_0704.jpg
It Lives!
I put the coil wires back the way they were and charged the battery some then poured gas in the carb and goosed it with the 50amp boost and it started. Drove it a few miles. I'll see in the morning if it starts again.
Your cam timing mark is correct. I only use it as a guide as there are so many small deviations caused by wear and tear, belt tension, small differences in machining and aftermarket parts etc that at the end of the day you have no guarantee that it's 'perfect' - just in the ball park. Then when you do things that move away from factory original you've heading into uncharted waters (like the Weber - it runs differently and is sensitive to ignition tune, air flow) You have to experiment with it and each engine is slightly different which makes it that much more of a challenge.
Once I got it running I "timed" it by ear. I did start it once more before I went to bed. This morning its raining again so no hauling stuff yet.
Started after a couple scary key turns with the starter spinning but not turning anything. (ring gear?) Then it caught and ran fine. Drove around set my radio stations. Noticed turn signals not working at all and now my headlights and possibly brake lights are not working. Then on the last stop when I started back up and the memory of the radio was empty again which means it lost power. When I got to the house I wiggled the 3 harness coming off the steering column and the headlights came on. When I tried the turn signals and emergency flasher I lost headlights and neither setting of the signal lights worked.
I suspect that this electrical fault, where ever it is, has been my starting problem all along.
About 5 years ago when my brother had our truck; he paid to get a new headlight turn signal wiper emergency flasher SWITCH assembly installed at his local auto repair shop... He said they had a heck of a time trying to locate the switch, but eventually did and it was not cheap (under $300.00 I think) You might need to buy a new switch assembly ~
I just checked RockAuto, it's out of stocktry MitsubishiPartsCentral
#MB382800
I called B&R auto wrecking and found an 84 at a local yard. Went out to it and the guy behind the counter tells me it is in the restricted section ready to go to scrap and the switch has been removed. I almost left then asked if I could get the harness that it plugs in to. I had to wait about 20 minutes and a puller kid came in and drove me directly to it. The switch was there on the removed column laying on the seat and it wasn't even attached. I got the harness out cut on the outside of the the firewall and some up into the dash area. The Ign switch was gone which I think is what the counter guy mistook.
He asked what I wanted to pay and I had $12 cash so I gave it to him and we are good. Bought some contact cleaner, another $11 on the way home. I got soaked and dirty out there but I was chauffeured to and from which usually takes about 30 minutes or more of the trip out there. deepening on what I am carrying. I will wait for a bit to think about how I will fix it. I think the easiest way would be to pull and replace the part of the connector that shorted on the veh side and then try both switch units to see if they work properly.
I'll post pics once I start messing with it.
You got lucky - right place at the right time. Too bad you didn't have time to pull the whole harness. Fingers crossed this will solve some of your gremlins
Yeah you got lucky; small world, I went to B&R once when I lived in Everett, WA to get a part for my 1994 Chevy Caprice, it was a good yard... Also, they were the only yard to give a reasonable shipping quote for sending me a Ram50 passenger door to Hawaii (they wanted $450.00 shipped) a great price at the time compared to everyone else...
Got repair manuals..?
George
I thought about it geez but I didn't have enough tools to remove the dash and everything to get at it properly. I'm glad I got the branches I did so I can replace the damaged connection. I'm hoping the damage is limited to that connector. Should be dry tomorrow hopefully I can peel back the tape on the harness in the truck to see what I am dealing with.
I have a FSM George. The wiring diagrams are too small and confusing to read without someone knowledgeable to describe what I am seeing. If I could get them blown up to poster size I could trace the lines in them and eventually figure them out.They also leave a lot to be desired in how they describe things and what they leave out. It was useless for dealing with the coil and ballast resister.
I took the tape off the one I brought home and cleaned the switch up. I then unpeeled the harness in my truck about 6 inches back and cleaned it good with the contact cleaner. Seems the dielectric grease was a bad idea as the real problem there is that the male post that shorted burned the wall away between two connectors. The grease was just helping it short more. So now that its clean both switches work. I have the one I grabbed in there now and O finally got the load of stuff I set out for weeks ago. I think those connectors are put together by pushing the wire through the connector housing, then adding the wire connection to the wire and pulling it back into the connector housing. I am hoping I can find a housing and new connectors so I don't have to take my seat out and lay in there soldering and heat shrinking each wire to install the new housing. The new housing, the male side that goes to the switch from this truck is just as clean. Edit- Duh, lights and turn signals working fine. hauled a yard of fir bark mulch and 12 10lb stones like it was empty. Still idling up and running hotter on the temp gauge than I would like.
connector.jpg
I have quoted the picture into this post. Can anyone find the part number for this connector? I am talking to a NOS parts salesman who needs the number to search for it. He did not recognize the picture.
I have also purchased a terminal removal tool set hoping to be able to just undo the connector from the harness and only have to change out 1 or 2 wire ends to put it all in to the new to me connector housing. As is there is still a danger of a short across that gap where the plastic wall should be.
A generic 12 pin molex connector may fit 41BloufXdZL._AC_SY400_.jpg
Cheap enough to try.
Id go ahead and swap it for a Deutsch connector personally
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