^ a solid plan. I'd re-pin the harness to a new connector but be aware that this will grief anyone if they have to work on it or replace something later. There's every chance that particular OEM socket is available somewhere but you may have to buy it in bulk...
Wrapping this up.
Got the connector switched. Starts easy when it catches. It sounds like the solenoid is kicking the starter gear out but its just barely catching the edges of the ring gear. I think I might have some worn or missing teeth on my ring gear. I don't want to take it apart to check as I still have to catch up with what I was supposed to be doing for the last 6 weeks.
Dash lights quit again so that means I haven't actually solved that problem. At least the short in the connector is fixed.
Edit- effin weird the dash lights work just a few minutes ago and I was checking something and turned the key on.
Edit 7-2-20- Figured it out, The solenoid has come loose! one more time.........later that day...I just undid the two bolts, took it out and pointed it down, tightened the two screws with a screw driver. When I went to start it it spun a few times again?? So maybe the flywheel ring gear is damaged? Anyway it starts easy when it catches.
Last edited by 85Ram50; 07-02-2020 at 03:49 PM.
Pull the ECU out. Just unplug the connectors and there is 2 bolts holding it in. It's at the passengers right ankle. Open the ECU and look at the capacitors before you waste anymore time and money. They go bad after 25+ years lol. They will become corroded and the fluid leaks out of em and you will have the exact issue your having right now.
There are actually two bolts at the bottom and a nut at the top right behind one of the connectors where it is grounded that is a bear to remove unless you take the ducts out. See post #62, I had it out and it looks good. I do not think it is doing much of anything for my truck since it is for controlling the Mikuni and I have a Weber.Originally Posted by Derek514w
I believe you are correct. The emissions box is not the same as the ECU. Capacitor failure in the ECU only applies to fuel injected engines I believe.
Emissions box is the Feedback carburetor system (FBC)
some numbers for checking
Throttle position sensor
output voltage
2.4 L engine - 0.28 to 0.52v
3.0L engine - 0.4 to 1.0 V
resistance (at closed throttle) 3.5 to 44 ohms
egr control solenoid valve resistance 36 to 44 ohms
engine coolant temp sensor resistance
32F - 5.9 k-ohm
68 - 2.5 k-ohms
104 - 1.1 k-ohms
176F 0.3 k-ohms
motor position sensor resistance (2.4l models)
4 to 6 k-ohms
oxygen sensor output voltage
1990 2.4L models 1 volt
1991 2.4 and all 3.0L models 0.6 to 1 volt
purge control solenoid valve resistance
36 to 44 ohms at 68F
1986 FSM has similar pages for the 2.6L as well -- Off topic ---> PM me if anyone knows the exact specs of the Mikuni carb O rings
The picture of the Mikuni control module is in post #62. This is a 2.0 motor. G63B1986 FSM has similar pages for the 2.6L as well -- Off topic ---> PM me if anyone knows the exact specs of the Mikuni carb O rings
Just looked at your photos in post # 62 and from tortrons shout out posts this computer control module does not incorporate OBD1 which musta come later in the Gen2 trucks... I dunno if my 86 truck has a ECM connector port under the drivers side dash -- I think not, it's been almost 4 months since I been in the truck... I believe tortron is also correct about Gen1s not having a CEL I've never seen one on my dash panel...
One of my favorite cars was a 1989 Chevy Celebrity 2.8L auto 4 door sedan... If I remember correctly it had no OBD1 but did have an amber colored dash CEL & a connector port under the driver side dash... If I remember correctly I learned to use a paper clip to bridge 1st & 2nd left side pins and the check engine light would flash like Morse Code to give trouble codes when the key was rurned on... Short & long pauses & quick light flashes... Had to be ready to count the # of flashes and wait for the pause before the next # flash... There was a list of codes either in the owners manual or online, I forgot... Had to replace the computer on that car at Chevy dealer, expensive $500+ but they said it would have the latest updates providing better MPG and big boost in power... They were not fibbing, burned rubber & could easily beat a Ford Mustang GT to 60MPH+
Anyway
Keep Safe People
Well anyway
I have pulled apart a 1st gen instrument panel, there's no check engine light
and no SERVICE ENGINE SOON light yeah? They knew the truck would act up if it needed srvc LOL
There is a switch near where the belt buzzer plugs in that turns a light on the dash off. I forget if it is a cel or service engine light but it bugged me a lot when I bought it until I discovered that switch turned it off. I just checked and the dash lights aren't working again. I'm hoping that is due to a ground being disconnected and the trans being out. I guess I'll find out when I get the parts and put it back together if the dash works
85Ram50 no dash lights is not cool -- hope you find the problem asap... My dash lights work ok (I think?) but I got no sound alarms buzzers or bells whistles or the like -- that's ok with me -- early aircraft din have em either (I think?) and flying then must have been just as dangerous as driving public roads is today -- he heThere is a switch near where the belt buzzer plugs in that turns a light on the dash off. I forget if it is a cel or service engine light but it bugged me a lot when I bought it until I discovered that switch turned it off. I just checked and the dash lights aren't working again. I'm hoping that is due to a ground being disconnected and the trans being out. I guess I'll find out when I get the parts and put it back together if the dash works
The switch is for the engine service notification. It triggers at certain odometer readings. It's not a 'check engine' light but it's close enough... I think only US market trucks had them and they were only introduced from 85 onwardsI haven't seen one in an Oz delivered truck but that doesn't mean we didn't get them.
OK I'll close this thread.
The flywheel balance seems to have been my problem as well as an intermittently failing alternator. The flywheel was missing one of the three pins that hold the pressure plate aside from it being rounded over in some spots. That seems to have been enough to cause a problem with how the motor ran. The alternator which I replaced with a 90 amp Pure Energy is self explanatory. I had to make mods for that alternator to work, search for the Nippon Denso thread on alts.
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