Rough Idling and dies when weather gets cold

[camoit]

Yep thats the stuff. 1 can will last a life time. Just don't over do it. You'll see.
The next time you pull it apart you will save lots of time and say Holey crap it worked. Then you will look at it and say,,,, I can use that again, if I want to. Makes for a life saving road repair =

[pennyman1]

Chapstick also works on the carb gaskets and is imho better than nickel anti-seize inside of a carb. Another anti seize that isn't well known is Phillips milk of magnesia - works great on exhaust manifold studs.

[camoit]

You broke off the extractor. Thats bad. Now you need to find a machine shop that can remove it. Nothing we have will drill it.

[MIghtymax89]

Hey penny, I think im going to have to try the chapstick trick cause i don't have anti seize with me. Also kragen(orielly's give you a 1 year warranty on fel-pro gaskets) I just exchanged a IM/Carb gasket and refund the other one i purchased a week ago.

Camoit, The harbor freight tool did not do it for me this time, haha. I think i might had used it incorrectly by not drilling deep/center enough so the extractor can settle down in more to catch. I just used a hammer and a flat head screw driver to remove the extractor. Once the extractor was removed, I then started to drill deeper, to only realize that a helicoil/time-sert kit will only cost as much as a intake manifold that i remove the carburetor from. Went back to PickNpull and it was still there in the engine bay. $25.99($4 core charge)


When removing the manifold , I accidently broke the brake booster check valve. The stealership wants $25.19 for it, damn!
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I removed the intake manifold and notice the starter was missing a bolt. 14mm(don't know the lenght) also my starter wire keeps coming off.
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I broke one of the same vacuum tube on both of these switches, Does anyone know what they are called ? Vacuum(ported) Switch ? I also need a pricing, called the dealer and they told me i would have to come in to verify the part on the computer. I'm thinking of just expoxy the tube back.

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Broke a piece off of the thermo valve also, haha I will be back visiting pickNpull soon. I need a beer now. CHeers!


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[camoit]

Dam dude, you fricking brutal to that thing aren't you Or it's all bad luck... Sorry to here it.

[MIghtymax89]

camoit, I like to think of it as bad luck. It's one thing after anothe with this truck. I ended up swapping the old carb back cause the the picknpull one is still leaking fuel around the carb bowl. I tried taking the old carb top piece off by unscrewing the 5 screws, but it won't even budge. I really don't know what's causing the picknpull carb to leak fuel from around the carb bowl. The picknpull carb runs so much better too. darn it! *headache*

[MIghtymax89]

Back at it again. haha

So PicknPull is having a half off sale for members only. I end up buying another carburetor from a overheated 88 truck in the yard. Brought it home and slapped it on my truck only to find out the jets are clogged, so it won't rev pass 2000 rpm. I disassemble the carb to check to see if the jets are clogged and they were. When i removed the float i notice that it has a float over flow ball. I then took a quick look at the other carb i bought and that's what it was missing. 2012-06-14 13.56.59.jpg
Maybe that's why the float bowl gasket is leaking.

I also end up breaking the thermo valve sensor again after i have perfectly silicon the nipples. 2012-04-30 10.06.40.jpg

I took the over flow ball and retainer from the overheat carb and installed it in the first carb bought from PicknPull. Feeling good about this plm being solved. After installing the carb on the truck it still shows a minimal leak around the float bowl gasket where the fuel inlet area. Damn! What to do? Guess im going to use the over heat carb float bowl but not needle valve to try to cure the leak.

The truck idles at 1000 rpm steady with the hybrid carb , I still haven't adjust the choke yet. Im more focus on the leak right now.
I got my temporary tags to drive till July to get the vehicle to pass smog. The muffler shop wants $235 to weld on a cataylic converter.

[pennyman1]

Try the top of the over heat carb on your first carb - the top may be warped, not the base. Magnaflow 2" universal cats are 65 on ebay all day.

[MIghtymax89]

sup pennyman1,
I figured out the problem and im pretty embrassed to say it was the wrong gasket the whole time. The thing is, the first carburetor i bought from pickNpull had the same leaking gasket plm. I pulled out that gasket and traced it with the new rebuild gasket i bought and it looked the same. Did he buy the wrong rebuild gasket kit from kragen like i did, maybe?

After swapping out parts from 3 carburetors to try to figure out the leaking float bowl gasket problem, it was the wrong gasket and missing over flow ball.
Lucky i saved one of the old float bowl gasket from the pickNpull carb.

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The black gasket is the right float bowl gasket shape. So i went to harborfreight and bout a leather hole puncher , then to kragen to buy a gasket paper.

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It was a pita to cut out the gasket into the shape of the float bowl, but with a lot of patience and time it came out alright.

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I also bought a UltraSonic Cleaner at HF to clean the old dirty carb parts. After taking 3 carbs apart so many times, I think i can actually rebuild one good carb to run on or sell.



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I would like to thank everyone that helped me through my trouble shooting and hope this will help someone in the future with the same plm. Don't stop trying and keep on trucking.

[crvtec90]

I like the leather punch tool for making gaskets. I never thought of that so ill have to go get one.

[pennyman1]

I saw an article in a mag that suggested using brass shell casings for punches; the various sizes are perfect for standard holes.

[BLADELYNCH87]

Honestly, you need to look into a 32/36 weber if you want to have it running right. The stock mikuni carbs are crap.....

Do you think this is the solution that will solve my issue ? I had my carb rebuilt 2 year ago..

[geezer101]

Most of the generic off the shelf carb rebuild kits are sketchy at best. You get overhang into the internal galleries partially blocking them, overhang into the venturi throats slowing air flow and messing with fuel atomisation and add to that someone who grabs the wrong top gasket and installs it (some kits have 2 or even 3 different gasket configurations). I hand prep every gasket during assembly and it's a PITA but I rarely have issues with a carby that's choking on itself. Said it plenty of times, the Mikuni is not a carb for noobs. Some guys who've rebuilt Rochesters, Holleys and Hitachis pull fails on Mikunis...