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Thread: Ram 50 1988

  1. #1

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    1988 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G63B

    Ram 50 1988

    Attachment 24689Attachment 24690Attachment 24691
    Got it for $50. Too good of a deal to pass up.
    I have experience as a weekend mechanic on my old 93' XJ. I'm not familiar with these trucks at all.
    Already starting to dig them though.
    I was tripping out when the vehicle identification plate said Mitsubishi.
    PO said it was overheating(the engine turns manually with a wrench) Thats all i know.
    I received it with the carb, starter valve cover and exhaust manifold removed.
    To Do: find a fan, a battery, a pulley, attempt starting.
    Ordered a Haynes manual from amazon(pdf?.

    Engine Stamp
    G63B
    GF1950

    Any advice?
    Attached Images

  2. #2

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    1981 Mitsubishi L200
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    Other
    might start with
    compression check
    cooling system flush

    and go from there. if the heads all good it could just be an old blocked radiator

  3. #3

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    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    Check the radiator and the rest of the cooling system. We have a thread advising new members on where to start with their first Mitsubishi truck - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...and-do-it-ASAP

    The G63B is an easy engine to work on so if you're a novice wrencher it's a pretty good place to start. As long as the engine hasn't experienced a catastrophic oil pressure failure you should be able to get it firing up with a little work. As requested of all new members - post pics and ask questions. Even if your engine is in bad shape, $50 is dirt cheap for a complete truck! Good luck
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  4. #4

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    1988 Dodge Ram 50
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    I’m missing the crank shaft flange/plate with the mark for timing.
    Looks like the PO marked the sprocket. Safe to use that old white mark? Am I gonna have to get a plate?
    AF358F94-B597-4D54-AACF-123B42FF8748.jpeg

  5. #5

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    I would do a dummy assembly and install the crank cover and pulley to visually check the alignment, adjust it to TDC as necessary and then mark it. It really should have belt shim plate thingy in place.
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  6. #6

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    Ok, I got that figured out. The plate was there, I was ate up.
    Here’s a few pics of items I’m hung up on.
    2A985B7D-AFAA-40CE-82DC-0E57CF92409D.jpg3873C532-0030-4095-A85F-E6BB1A59F8AF.jpgD85E41B3-195E-426D-BB88-C120D5812C6E.jpg

  7. #7

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    1985 Mitsubishi L200
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    Image #1 - You have a bunch of breather hoses missing from the charcoal cannister and air cleaner. The hose that's bent over the side of the rocker cover should (?) connect to one of the inlets on the charcoal can and another should go from the rocker cover to the air cleaner body (somewhere on the side...?) and I think a third one goes back from the charcoal can to the barb on the air cleaner top cover.

    Image #2 - you are missing the PCV that is screwed into the rocker cover (it goes from the bridge between the intake runners on the manifold and pushes onto the 'positive crankacse ventilation' valve) There is a threaded hole where that small raised hump in the rocker cover is located.

    Image #3 - The connection looks suspiciously like a diagnostic socket for an EFI truck. The welded stand-off with the 2 captive threads - I dunno...
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  8. #8

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    1987 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Image 3 is the O2 sensor connector and holder clip and the stand-off with 2 holes is for a power steering reservoir if it had PS

  9. #9

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    Mystery solved
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  10. #10

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    1988 Dodge Ram 50
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  11. #11

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    Get a head sans jet valves and it'll be up and fighting again
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  12. #12

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    1988 Dodge Ram 50
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    364C195F-1655-4320-8A3D-D6D29346034D.jpg
    pic of the block. Looks good to me. Anything to look for?

    27C07877-6BF9-40A3-B7B1-BD8A8F80FFC8.jpg1ED49BED-C48E-4619-A914-01C4B05B9554.jpg49E51031-4487-41CD-8A53-1FDB0F5B50E1.jpeg5299F097-2684-473E-866B-7CE237EE5EBD.jpg
    heres the mighty max I pulled the valve cover from.
    same engine model as mine. Head will match right? Gonna go pull that today. And look for a machine shop to resurface the head.

  13. #13

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  14. #14

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    Looks like a crack to me too. It'll be one of those things that people start to know about and offload the problem rather than fix it. Like old Hyundais cracking radiators...
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  15. #15


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    1986 Dodge Power Ram 50
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    Hello PrestigeWorldwide ~ thanks for documenting your work with plenty photos; very nice Do you pull parts & ship worldwide [?]; California wrecking yards might have a better than average amount & quality of parts for many vehicles... That's how my truck got fixed this last time; a swell parts puller guy + my luck spotting a Ram 50 at PicknPull in Rocklin, CA = 'd one good carburetor... and now the Corona virus shutdown... To the best of my knowledge, auto parts stores, auto repair shops & wrecking yards are all considered essential & open for business... At least we can legally work on our trucks, especially if we have our own garage... Best of luck & minimum expense 'n fuss fixing your new toy...
    Aloha --
    George

  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by xboxrox View Post
    Hello PrestigeWorldwide ~ thanks for documenting your work with plenty photos; very nice Do you pull parts & ship worldwide [?]; California wrecking yards might have a better than average amount & quality of parts for many vehicles... That's how my truck got fixed this last time; a swell parts puller guy + my luck spotting a Ram 50 at PicknPull in Rocklin, CA = 'd one good carburetor... and now the Corona virus shutdown... To the best of my knowledge, auto parts stores, auto repair shops & wrecking yards are all considered essential & open for business... At least we can legally work on our trucks, especially if we have our own garage... Best of luck & minimum expense 'n fuss fixing your new toy...
    Aloha --
    George
    Never thought about monetizing these junk yard runs. Thats not a bad idea. Especially on a half off weekend promotion.

  17. #17

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  18. #18

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  19. #19

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    It 'will' bolt on. The main differences between the G63B head and the 4G64 - none of the mechanical components will swap over. You HAVE to use the whole head and valvetrain (no biggie). The 4G64 is a hydraulic head minus the jet valves () There may be a difference in CC volume and I would advise using the 4G64 head gasket in the minute chance the G63B head gasket will encroach the combustion chamber area. Make sure the cam turns freely in the head before taking it (if the cam is seized that head will be toast) and expect to give the head a once over as it could've been sent to the yard due to overheating or blowing smoke (valve stem seals most likely and you already know what to look for in regards to cracks). Take the head bolts as well. Everyone re-uses them and there are weird things with Mitsubishi head bolts like different shoulder length/width and bolt length depending on the engine. Fingers crossed it'll be winner winner chicken dinner
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  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    It 'will' bolt on. The main differences between the G63B head and the 4G64 - none of the mechanical components will swap over. You HAVE to use the whole head and valvetrain (no biggie). The 4G64 is a hydraulic head minus the jet valves () There may be a difference in CC volume and I would advise using the 4G64 head gasket in the minute chance the G63B head gasket will encroach the combustion chamber area. Make sure the cam turns freely in the head before taking it (if the cam is seized that head will be toast) and expect to give the head a once over as it could've been sent to the yard due to overheating or blowing smoke (valve stem seals most likely and you already know what to look for in regards to cracks). Take the head bolts as well. Everyone re-uses them and there are weird things with Mitsubishi head bolts like different shoulder length/width and bolt length depending on the engine. Fingers crossed it'll be winner winner chicken dinner
    Awww Shit! Thank you!
    Wassup with that carburetor? Is it an upgrade over mine? Also, i don't have AC. Should be pretty straight forward bolt on, this goes to that stuff yeah?

  21. #21

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    That dude is EFI. Yeah you can EFI your truck but you need to take all of the ancillary stuff from the donor to make it work. Harness, ECM, distributor, fuel pump and relay - everything. And if something doesn't work or you've missed something you have to diagnose it. No fun on EFI if you haven't touched it before. If you can scavenge the A/C stuff go for it. Take any drive pulleys with it and trace the wiring to make it easier to rig up. Take anything that is part of the A/C as a missing piece could turn into a disaster to find later.
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  22. #22

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  23. #23


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    Nice shot ~ how will you clean & refurbish this head..? Yourself..? Send to a shop..? Did you notice the mileage on the odometer (?) it might indicate what is both needed or not needed on the head... Looking good...

  24. #24

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    Yeah that cam is gonna need a big linish up. And the carbon build up on the valves... this head is definitely due for a freshen up.

    *One thing you need to be aware of is there is no provision for a fuel pump on that head. It will need an electric fuel pump to run the carb. This is one thing I overlooked If Cali will allow you to use an electric fuel pump you will be good. There is a way around this but I don't know if you're game - the head is set up to be used for a mechanical pump as it has the threaded holes and the cut out prepared in the casting. The EFI cam even has the fuel pump lobe on it but CHECK IT FIRST or this is a no-go.
    Be brave... You will need to take a big @ss drill to the pump recess and drill out the through point for the pump actuator rod.It's the only mod you would need to make to swap it over. Copy what you see on the old G63B head (and don't lose the pump spacer or break it!)
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  25. #25

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    *HOLD THAT THOUGHT. After reflecting on it, you would need to be precise on how to drill that rod actuator hole and I don't think most mortals could pull it off. A machine shop maybe/probably - but not a guy in an average garage without a mill or drill press...
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