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Thread: Ram 50 1988

  1. #51


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    05-01-2018
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    1,549
    Location

    Kailua, HI
    Vehicle

    1986 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Try this: use a wooden chopstick or equivalent tool & with all spark plugs removed you should be able to rotate the engine by hand while grabbing the V belts ~ so with thumb on the #1 spark plug hole determine which stroke is compression AND watch the chopstick until it reaches high as it will go or just at the point where it begins to go down again ~ you will know where TDC (top dead center) is on the #1 cylinder ~ LOOK at the crankshaft pulley timing mark to see where it is pointing on the timing cover timing marks ~ check that both intake & exhaust valves are closed loose rocker arm gap ~ paint a blob of WHITE paint on the pulley timing NOTCH ~ remove the distributor cap check the rotor make sure it points to #1 spark plug wire & also trace the wire to it's end to ensure it's the #1 wire ~ do same for all 4 cylinders ~ if the rotor is not out by 90° or 180° degrees then it should start ~ if spark is firing at each spark plug then it must be a fuel or vacuum leak issue ???
    Great Work so far ~ George

  2. #52

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    01-24-2017
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    Location

    New Zealand
    Vehicle

    1981 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    Other
    it "sounds" like the plug wires are mixed up tbh, it might be running on 2. but yeah if you are getting spark at each plug then its timing

  3. #53

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    04-01-2020
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    Location

    California
    Vehicle

    1988 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G63B
    https://youtu.be/yV57Mbhi-xU
    it starts!
    i hears crackling. hoping just oil burning off. has not been started in who knows how long.
    i have to mess with my carb for sure. the fast idle cam is messed up. the first open clearance stays closed, supposed to be .9" clearance open i believe...

  4. #54

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    04-01-2020
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    Location

    California
    Vehicle

    1988 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G63B
    also, theres a vacuum leak at my thermo valve for sure. needs to be replaced.

  5. #55

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    06-15-2014
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    6,059
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    Definitely sounds like a misfire. Pull and test each lead individually while it's running to find the culprit. Might be a cracked insulator on a plug etc.

  6. #56

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    12-21-2020
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    192
    Location

    Carson City, Nevada
    Vehicle

    1979 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    4G52
    Just read through this thread.

    Note... after the engine has run through a heating cycle, warm it up again and check your compression. I bet it goes up substantially.

    This is important! If you haven't replaced the balance shaft belt and the timing belt, it would be a good idea. The balance shaft belt frequently fails and can take out the main timing belt. How do you say it?
    NO BUENO!!
    Too bad you live in Cali... The best way to remedy the carb problems... a Weber conversion. I lived there for 1.5 years and the smog boyz are bastards.

    *You have to have zero vacuum leaks. If the leak is big enough, the engine can act like it is skipping and will have a high idle or no idle at all.
    *Just for a laugh, check the spark plug porcelains. If one has a crack, it will skip. This is overlooked too many times.
    One other I recently encountered...
    A friend's shop had done a tune up on a Chevy 4.3. It was skipping afterwards.
    I isolated the skip to #6 cylinder - Know what it was?
    The tech didn't check the spark plug gap and it was completely closed. Re-set gap, engine ran fine.
    Another one - a carbon track or cracked distributor cap.
    Maybe a bad plug wire.

    I know this stuff may have been mentioned, but it doesn't hurt to check.

    Good luck!

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