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Thread: 1992 mighty max 2.4L heavily smoking white smoke with a tint of blue?

  1. #1

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    Question 1992 mighty max 2.4L heavily smoking white smoke with a tint of blue?

    I have a 1992 mighty max 2.4L and I'm having problems with it smoking very! very! bad when it warms up it smokes a little less but still bad and I cant figure it out? I've heard change valve guide and seals or change head gasket should I do both or how can I figure out witch one is causing the smoke? I would appreciate any feedback and thank you.

  2. #2

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    I know you've been here a while, but WELCOME to the forum, Jeff.

    Almost invariably, that type of smoke is caused by worn valve seals. My own experience showed cold-start smoking was stopped by replacing the valve seals...and my truck had some 220,000 miles on it at the time. There are many testimonies on this forum that support a valve seal replacement took care of the smoking. I did note, on my own repair, that it took a couple of days for the smoking to stop completely.

    What happens is when the engine is hot, then shut off, during cool-down oil is permitted to leak down into the combustion chamber. On start-up, it takes a while for that pooled oil to burn off. If the seals are really bad, then your truck would smoke even while warm.

    Please post how many miles the truck has on the clock...that helps with diagnosis.

    That's my suggestion, but it's always good to wait 'til a couple other members give their advice.
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  3. #3

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    Thank you for the welcome. It has 237577 miles on it and yes it smokes pretty bad all the time (like bad) lol sorry for the laughter its just really bad unless I run it on the freeway then it smokes a little less

  4. #4

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    Bad valve stem seals are 90% the cause of most oil consumption and exhaust smoke in Mitsubishis. They usually go bad @ about the 200-250,000 km mark or 10 years if the engine hasn't been religiously maintained. Mixing synthetic and mineral oils should also be avoided at all costs as this will gum up a good engine in no time. If you need to do the valve stem seals I'd advise taking the head off and giving it a once over and replacing the timing belts. Removing the head will give you a chance to properly assess the condition of the valve stems and coolant galleries etc. Yeah it's not cheap getting a good quality head gasket set and maybe sending the head through a machine shop for valve seal cutting and pressure testing but once it's done it'll be rock solid for another 10 years.
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  5. #5

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    I I just changed the timing belt and fix the timing less then a year ago Ok I ordered my valve stem seals today I get them tomorrow at 10:30am I'll take some pictures while I'm fixing it to see just how bad they were thanks alot guys

  6. #6

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    Great! Remember to be cautious when removing the rocker arm assembly - the lifters are in the rocker arms.

    http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post26624

    Those with the 4G64 should know they have little hydrolic lifters in the rockerarms, and the first thing they try to do when you lift the assembly from its craddle is to escape. They look for the nearest exit, which happens to be the oil drain holes in the cylinder head.

    Once you have the valve cover off, take the time to block those drain holes with rags or some suitable plugging material. I don't recommend expanding foam, but for the smaller holes, I did roll tight a paper towel, and cut it half: that plugged two holes.

    Some people use tape to keep the lifters in place during removal and installation, but I used disposable mechanic's gloves. I cut the fingers off and used 'em like little rocker arm condoms. Balloons might work, but I don't think the latex could withstand the oil exposure. The mechanic's gloves are designed to do just that. 'Nothing worse than a condom breaking just when you need it most.
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  7. #7

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    Good luck. Hopefully you won't run into anything more sinister than some hardened valve seals
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  8. #8

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    something else to consider is the maf sensor could also be going bad witch is causing the white like smoke. my 1990 was getting poor fuel millage (17-19mpg) and would smoke white with a bad maf. couple that with bad valve stem seals and i can see it smoking all the time. when you do the valves you dont need to worry about the valve dropping down into the cylinder if you have that cylinder at tdc. if you get some disposable 2xl sized rubber gloves and remove the fingers from them you can use those on the rocker arms to prevent the lashes from falling out.

  9. #9

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    Sorry for the late response I managed to get the seals changed 2 of the intake valves gave me alot of trouble but i finally got it this is what two the the old seals looked like20200516_085818.jpg but in the end thats why bbn it was smoking since i changed them inhave zero smoke now thanks for the help.

  10. #10

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    end thats why it was smoking so bad since i changed them i have zero smoke now thanks for the help guys.
    (Sorry for the incorrect spelling)

  11. #11

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    Thanks for letting us know! It's always great to hear a success story
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  12. #12

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