Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 26 to 50 of 50

Thread: Mikuni carburetor

  1. #26


    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    05-01-2018
    Posts
    569
    Location

    Kailua, HI
    Vehicle

    1986 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Quote Originally Posted by 85Ram50 View Post
    How did it work out xbox?
    Not worked quiet yet, but two other household chores got done today + checked by phoncon on the last of all the parts & tools I ordered which will arrive Monday 6" dial caliper (to use with float adjust tool)... I hope to spend some time today, tweaking a vacuum tester/brake bleeder set by finding a suitable container to hold the little parts & beef up the squeeze handle connection that another user on YouTube said was broke on the one he ordered... The one I got looks weird too at that same spot; hope to remove it from the package today & fix if needed... Blah, Blah...

    US Navy Nuclear Trained Repair Technician (my job is to stop jobs that are not in verbatum compliance :^)
    Motto: "STOP IS GOOD PROGRESS"


    Update/Edit
    Completed unpacking all tools including the dial caliper (it just arrived) everything looks good & is arranged in a nice tool bag... Next activity will be touching the original Mikuni for an epoxy repair try...
    THANKS for KEEPING me MOTIVATED
    Last edited by xboxrox; 07-10-2020 at 06:00 PM.

  2. #27

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    10-29-2014
    Posts
    1,099
    Location

    Earth, the Solar System
    Vehicle

    1985 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G63B
    No problem. One more thing, there is a 2 part epoxy similar to JB Weld specifically for wet gas tank leaks. It is more clay like than bondo like. IDK if it would work in your application and for the life of me I cannot recall the name of it. I think it might be a Permatex product. It's been on my tank for a decade.

  3. #28


    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    05-01-2018
    Posts
    569
    Location

    Kailua, HI
    Vehicle

    1986 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Quote Originally Posted by 85Ram50 View Post
    No problem. One more thing, there is a 2 part epoxy similar to JB Weld specifically for wet gas tank leaks. It is more clay like than bondo like. IDK if it would work in your application and for the life of me I cannot recall the name of it. I think it might be a Permatex product. It's been on my tank for a decade.
    Maybe THIS: https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/p...gcompound.html

  4. #29

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    10-29-2014
    Posts
    1,099
    Location

    Earth, the Solar System
    Vehicle

    1985 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G63B
    That stuff looks good but what I used was clay like. similar to this https://www.permatex.com/products/sp...l-tank-repair/
    That is a two part clay. The black is wrapped around a grey center. You cut off how much you want and then mix it together and stick it on. I think I wire brushed the spot then hit it with paint after the cure time. It was a slow seeping leak from something sharp impacting the bottom. It stuck on there wet with gas. It said it would on the package.

  5. #30


    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    05-01-2018
    Posts
    569
    Location

    Kailua, HI
    Vehicle

    1986 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Here's the Latest:

    Spoke with Alan today who owns Carburetion Technologies in Tacoma, WA... Asked him where & how to begin trying to rebuild the Mikuni carburetor... I have two carbs; the original 1986 (broken phenolic body) & another 1985 carb from PicknPull J/Y both are California emissions 32-35DID TF... The 1985 carb has been on the truck 4 months & running good but now a no start issue, spark plugs are very black, 95% sure flooding...

    Alan recommends (since I have zero carb experience) look at the diagram that came with the rebuild kit and count the pieces, approx 400 my guess... He said that's right, a lot of parts & could very well be the most difficult carb on the planet to rebuild & operate correctly afterwards...

    He said do not try to epoxy, glue or repair the broken phenolic throttle body of the original carburetor... He says, use the original carburetor as a practice mule, mock up & training aid... Tear it down & put it back together (in proper sequence) enough times where I feel comfortable doing it out of memory... Then rebuild the J/Y carby that was running well on the truck... It might just have a piece of dirt lodged in the needle seat area...

    He also said, do not mix 'n match parts from the two carbs to make one good carb; that's asking for trouble... Just fix the carb that was running good on the truck...

    He answered my ? about using 3 mounting gaskets to insulate heat from the intake manifold to carb and he said NO, do not, too many chances for leaks with exh gases, coolant, vacuum and everything else in that joint; just use one gasket...

    He mentioned modification to a Weber carb but warned of several little tweaks needed to finish the MOD, price will be about the same in the end...

    Have I forgotten anything..? Well, hope this helps someone besides myself... At least I can stop hunting for the magic glue that resists immersion in ethanol gasoline (there is no such animal that I can afford).. I still wanna buy a good phenolic body and try ending up with two good carburetors (more likely with my lack of experience ONE good carb after two rebuild attempts, duh...) I can't even finish a 500 piece puzzle...

    What's new on your end fellahs..?

    ALOHA --
    George

  6. #31

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    10-29-2014
    Posts
    1,099
    Location

    Earth, the Solar System
    Vehicle

    1985 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G63B
    Good Luck Xboxrox! Sounds like a summer project.

  7. #32

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    4,979
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    Using the dud carb as a test rig is good advice. And abandoning the idea of gluing the bad carb to fix it is equally solid (you never know if initially 'repairing' it won't be a permanent thing) When you got old kits, they came with 2 base gaskets. You were supposed to remove the bakelite spacer and sandwich it between the 2 paper gaskets supplied. The bakelite spacer would sometimes get a hairline crack in them and it was near undetectable. The newer kits have a single thick cardboard spacer to replace all 3 components. If you are making a good one from 2 carbs you have to be sure that both of them haven't suffered the same fault (bad auto choke/secondary/butterfly shaft leaks/auto choke release assist etc) and ensure you have a COMPLETE kit to rebuild one properly (not missing diaphragms or the correct auto choke assist for your carb) They are a PITA to work on and there are a few variants with different components fitted to them - hell, I haven't even seen a Mikuni with a factory electric auto choke in person

    The Weber isn't a straight forward nut-and-bolt swap. There is messing around with tuning it to run decently without investing in redialling the advance on the distributor or trying to get the most out of it by porting etc but the pay off is an engine that'll perform better and be more economical in the long run. The Weber is a simple beast to pull apart but if you've just bought one out of the box, you won't be fooling around with it for a good decade.
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  8. #33


    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    05-01-2018
    Posts
    569
    Location

    Kailua, HI
    Vehicle

    1986 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    geezer your details help me a lot, thank you...

  9. #34


    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    05-01-2018
    Posts
    569
    Location

    Kailua, HI
    Vehicle

    1986 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Guys & Gals,

    I dug into my (original 1986 cracked) Mikuni carburetor more today and DO NOT plan to glue the cracked phenolic fuel bowl/throttle body... I will use the J/Y 1985 Mikuni's phenolic body... So, I can't figure out how the Bowl Vent Valve SELENOID does whatever it does to operate the BVV diaphragm to send fuel vapors to the vapor canister... I think selenoids have a moving part when voltage is applied or removed, RIGHT..?

    What is the moving part of the BVV selenoid (?); the little hole that holds the spring OR the larger metal round surface area section, see PIC 3..? If anyone knows how to clean & test this selenoid please chime in... PICS:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	BVV1.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	191.3 KB 
ID:	25408Click image for larger version. 

Name:	BVV2.jpg 
Views:	12 
Size:	319.8 KB 
ID:	25409Click image for larger version. 

Name:	BVV3.jpg 
Views:	11 
Size:	221.5 KB 
ID:	25410

    I could use help in knowing how to test any or all the selenoids on the carb; they had cracked "O" rings by the way... Hope I don't ruin the BVV selenoid as it will get cleaned one way or another which I hope does not destroy it..? There is a bunch crud & gunk around the inner perimiter that I want gone... Too bad I don't if PB Blaster OR carburetor cleaner spray would damage it or free up anything that might supposed to be a moving part..?

    Aloha & Stay Safe --
    George

  10. #35

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    4,979
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    There are no parts on a carb that will adversely react to carb/brake cleaner so GO HARD!!?! You would need to clean the solenoids and seats/housings etc to get them to actuate properly. The air circuit control solenoids on feed back carbs (the thin ones that look like a sketchy fuel injector) can be tested with 12v - hook it up with polarity correct (follow a wire and if it goes to the manifold, it's a ground) it'll kick hard.
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  11. #36


    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    05-01-2018
    Posts
    569
    Location

    Kailua, HI
    Vehicle

    1986 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    geezer you're the Man; you would be a good boss to work under...

    MAHALO

  12. #37

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    07-23-2018
    Posts
    155
    Location

    Seattle, WA
    Vehicle

    1988 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    The BVV part in your pictures is an electromagnet. When energized it pulls on the metal disk of the BVV diaphragm. At the other end of the diaphragm shaft is a donut shaped disc. The shaft goes through the center of the disc. To access and remove the diaphragm and disc, the top, air horn portion of the carb must be separated from the phenolic mixing body. Chances are the disc has degraded so the float bowl is always exposed to atmospheric pressure and that’s causing the rich condition. Before you remove the disc, note the direction of the slightly tapered end. Fortunately the disc and diaphragm are inexpensive and available on eBay so consider replacing them even if they look okay.
    Good luck with Douglas. Hope it doesn’t case you any problems.

  13. #38


    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    05-01-2018
    Posts
    569
    Location

    Kailua, HI
    Vehicle

    1986 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Quote Originally Posted by FMS88 View Post
    The BVV part in your pictures is an electromagnet. When energized it pulls on the metal disk of the BVV diaphragm. At the other end of the diaphragm shaft is a donut shaped disc. The shaft goes through the center of the disc. To access and remove the diaphragm and disc, the top, air horn portion of the carb must be separated from the phenolic mixing body. Chances are the disc has degraded so the float bowl is always exposed to atmospheric pressure and that’s causing the rich condition. Before you remove the disc, note the direction of the slightly tapered end. Fortunately the disc and diaphragm are inexpensive and available on eBay so consider replacing them even if they look okay.
    Good luck with Douglas. Hope it doesn’t case you any problems.
    THANK YOU for wishing us well about DOUGLAS

    <--- that's me in the middle..! I WILL follow your advice, for sure... Now I can clean & test that sucker without FEAR..!

    Please excuse me 88 but it's in my nature to wonder: "Where, How, When, etc... did you ever get that knowledge..?

    More questions forming in my brain:

    I came up with another (?) idea for trying to check or test the choke system on the Mikuni while I have it mostly apart BUT without having to completely disassemble it... I was thinking of putting the wax pellet end of the carb's top cover into hot water to see if the wax pellet does anything or does what it's supposed to do (whatever that is..?) I noticed the threaded shaft on this wax pellet looks rather bent (even perhaps broken?) and trying to move it or any of the brackets attached to it is impossible (my fingers not strong enough) There is a diaphragm called the choke breaker that moves some linkage parts which I assume opens the choke blade when the engine is warmed up (I have a replacement diaphragm)... I don't know if the wax pellet & choke linkage needs only hot water OR also vacuum OR also throttle positioning to perform it's function... Guess what I mean is that I don't know if the wax pellet choke system can be properly tested by me coz I do not plan on complete disassembly, it looks way too complex... And, I bat about .500 which in baseball is great but in fixing stuff, it means I break 50% of the things I try to fix, not good... If it ain't broke, don't fix it is so true, in my case anywho... My truck always ran way too rich when 1st started but once warmed up it ran ok...

    NOTES:
    1) I noticed the new float I got from Rock Auto is not really the same as my original; it's different enough that making the same float adjustment would change the bowl fuel level quite a bit... At this point, I am considering not doing anything to the original existing needle seat filter or float except take the float adjustment measurement and call it good (thinking my poor batting average) Oh, I do have a hand vacuum pump which I think can be used to test the needle seat for any leakage; I should do that too...

    2) The original Mikuni gaskets look like a plastic material much different than the paper gaskets in the rebuild kit from Autozone (cheapy) So, I am toying with the idea of possibly reusing the original factory Mikuni gasket (phenolic fuel bowl/throttle body) gaskets top & bottom (PB Blaster helped a lot to separate the carb without breaking those two gaskets or breaking the phenolic plastic... But, I also know that good engineering practice usually demands using new software & new gaskets...

    3) There was one large ball bearing in the bottom of the fuel bowl trapped (?) under some swing arms of a thing call overfill or overflow device (?) I just wonder if that is the correct place for that big ball bearing to reside..? Hope not to find any holes in the phenolic body big enough for that big ball bearing to fit into (that would cause even more ????) yikes..!

    4) Quarantine & the truck not running has forced me to work on this carburetor in my apartment & on the outdoor lanai; PB Blaster stinks..! But I did not ruin any fasteners yet, including the Phillips screws... :^)

    5) The carb's selenoids all had broken "O" rings -- I wonder if my local O'Reilly's has a good supply of "O" rings -- knowing them, I will end up with a $45.00 "O" ring kit just to get the four rings...

    6) I don't have access to 100 PSI air to clean the carb parts 'n passages; so I am forced to use my can of computer keyboard spray air..! Hm

    Enuff for now, my little brain is starting to HURT
    TYVM FSM88 and everyone else giving me a helping hand here; especially geezer & 85Ram too

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	wax pellet.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	174.4 KB 
ID:	25411
    Last edited by xboxrox; 07-25-2020 at 12:20 PM.

  14. #39

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    07-23-2018
    Posts
    155
    Location

    Seattle, WA
    Vehicle

    1988 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Quote Originally Posted by xboxrox View Post
    Please excuse me 88 but it's in my nature to wonder: "Where, How, When, etc... did you ever get that knowledge..?
    I've worked on cars since the late 60s and have owned my truck for 30 years. In that time I've collected service manuals, technical and training guides. Plus there's the internet, of course, but you have to be careful since that info can be unreliable. Over the years the truck has required maintenance and developed various issues (carb problems being one) that have given me many hands-on opportunities.
    I've rebuilt a number of Gen2 carbs but only disassembled one Gen1 carb and that was years ago. While functionally similar, they have significant design differences especially concerning the BVV actuation, the choke and EGR management. My experience is too limited to help with the wax choke issue, but there are Gen1 owners like geezer 101, who can. As to your other questions:
    1. If your uncertain about the new float and the old one doesn't leak, use the old one. Inspect the float needle and seat for wear. If none and they pass your vacuum test, you can get by reusing them. However, if the needle is rubber tipped, try using the new one if it doesn't affect the float height and passes the vacuum test.
    2. I'd use the new gasket, but compare it to the old one to be sure (as geezer counsels) that all holes are there and in the same locations.
    3. The ball bearing and metal arms in the float bowl are a safety measure on 4x4 trucks in the event of a roll-over. When you're upside-down, they push on the float thereby shutting off the fuel flow. Like some of the major carb rebuilders, you can omit them without consequence.
    4. and 6. As Donald Rumsfeld said, "you go to war with the army you got."
    5. I've always found more o-rings than needed in the kits I've bought. If you can't find ones you need, PM me the dimensions and I'll see if I have ones that match.

    Here are the ebay listings for the diaphragm and cap (I called a disc) I think you need and mentioned in my previous post:
    Diaphram:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mikuni-Sole...UAAOSwO9dfAKzT

    Diaphragm cap:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/TOMCO-7410-....c100005.m1851

    And here's a listing for the entire BVV that might fit:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Mitsubi...gAAOSwZ8ZW~Itk

    I don't have a parts book that's detailed enough to include internal carb parts, so I recommend you check these to make sure they fit your carburetor. You can't always be sure of the listing's accuracy.

    Have fun.
    Last edited by FMS88; 07-25-2020 at 03:09 PM.

  15. #40


    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    05-01-2018
    Posts
    569
    Location

    Kailua, HI
    Vehicle

    1986 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Quote Originally Posted by FMS88 View Post
    I've worked on cars since the late 60s and have owned my truck for 30 years. Have fun.
    FSM88 you really know how to help out; a few highly skilled tradesmen won't share their secrets or even offer any help to others... Maybe those types of people are worried about their job security or they wanna stay the best no matter what..? Many thanks for your post & links & O ring offer...

    I bookmarked the 1st & 2nd link and had already seen and bookmarked the 3rd link (I even emailed the ebay seller about the $69 NOS BVV) I will contact the sellers at link 1 & 2 as well... I also just emailed two carburetor rebuild sites asking if they have the BVV software... My BVV diaphragm is not torn but the rubber valve disk feels hardened but not cracked, the O ring is bad; may reuse diaphragm and disk if no one lowers any prices...

    OK, you got a plan for me to follow about the float, needle, seat & little filter (not sure if any O ring resides in there...)

    How cleaver a device to shut off fuel for a rollover; I had zero ideas how that gizmo did anything or what it did..! You know plenty dude..!

    Today, I FINALLY got the sub EGR out (what a struggle fighting carbon) carb cleaner spray eats black nitrile gloves, yuck... and, cleaned off the gasket in pieces of the lower section of the carb... and, also gave a hot bath to the lower part of the carby in ultrasonic cleaner with Pine Sol & Palmolive dish soap (just a little of each)... I might try some cream of tartar & fresh lemon juice to remove scum on the on the cadmium plated parts...

    FSM88 wonder if your batting average got good results in your carburetor rebuilds; any success & worth it..? Hope my truck will live again..?

    Some Photos:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	BVV4.jpg 
Views:	6 
Size:	192.3 KB 
ID:	25412Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20200724_151447.jpg 
Views:	6 
Size:	294.6 KB 
ID:	25413Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Carb Base.jpg 
Views:	7 
Size:	215.2 KB 
ID:	25414Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Carb Base3.jpg 
Views:	8 
Size:	136.5 KB 
ID:	25415Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Carb Base4.jpg 
Views:	7 
Size:	96.9 KB 
ID:	25416Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Carb Base5.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	165.3 KB 
ID:	25417

  16. #41

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    4,979
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    I think the original factory rebuild gasket kits had neoprene gaskets instead of paper/cardboard. You can imagine how extortionistically expensive one of those kits would have been to buy from a dealership. I tend to think that buying a kit and DIY'ing it is a better deal than buying a reman'd carb. They don't put the attention the carb needs into them - they look pretty, but once you have seen how hit-and-miss the gaskets are you can't imagine some guy on a production line checking air gallery alignment and derestricting gasket overhang which is the difference between a 'working' carb and a responsive carb. The upside of buying reman'd is not needing a degree in Mitsubishi-Astronphysics and just bolting it up.

    They are a biatch to diagnose and work on. The fuel bowl vent (as you've discovered), the water auto choke (just...don't even), secondary vac actuator (easy to fix, but the Achilles heel of noob truck owners that think their truck is naturally a gutless donkey), accelerator enrichment pump (a crowd favourite...), auto choke release assist (most people don't even know it has one or where the hell it is), the fuel cut solenoid (get ready to claw your eyes out in frustration if this thing ever decides to start glitching on you) and then you get to the fun stuff like factory pre-set adjustment screws that someone has tampered with (hey hey! lets see who can make the 3 pointer shot into the scrap bin with that !@#$ing carb)

    George, you make a compelling argument for owning an ultrasonic parts cleaner - I gotta me one of dem Getting it spotlessly clean goes a long way to a successful rebuild. Keep us posted!
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  17. #42

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    07-23-2018
    Posts
    155
    Location

    Seattle, WA
    Vehicle

    1988 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    xboxrox,
    Your truck will live. You've got your careful approach, good tools and this site as a resource to guide you to success. My first attempt failed because I had only the FSM and my general skills which proved inadequate up against the Mikuni's complexity. It took much research, info gathering and the destruction of a carb (or two) to map the passages and functions, for me to have a successful rebuild. Fortunately you won't have to go to such extremes. If you persevere, take your time, and ask questions (with your great pics), you're much more likely to have a positive outcome.

  18. #43



    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    03-16-2011
    Posts
    3,640
    Location

    Sacramento, CA
    Vehicle

    1979 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    Chevy V6
    The trapped ball in the bottom of the float bowl is a roll over ball to cut the fuel off.
    The best stuff to clean carbon in any EGR is Techron. Just get a bottle from the local parts store. It melts it with in seconds. What ever is left over you can dump in the tank.
    As for the thermal wax just place the carb in hot water from the stove.
    DO NOT DO IT UNLESS YOU HAVE THE CHOKE SPRING IN PLACE AND THE CHOKE WORKING.
    It will expand if it's good. When that takes a crap you are screwed. or if it pops out because you didn't have it contained in place by the choke spring. (I found that out the hard way.) It's not available anymore. If you remove it there is an O ring that seals the water that flows through the carb. (I found that out the hard way.) Pulled it out and water shot out. The spring that pushes on it, is super strong.
    Members come and members go, But the board keeps track of them.
    Find me on FaceBook
    clicking HERE.

    Or look on YouTube Click Here.

  19. #44

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    4,979
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    Wax pellets are nearly extinct. Did find this though - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MIKUNI-S...-/202047203128

    Anyone got a spare $154.50 AUD lying around for one?
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  20. #45


    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    05-01-2018
    Posts
    569
    Location

    Kailua, HI
    Vehicle

    1986 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    You guys are the best; giving out so much Mikuni carburetor info --- THANK YOU ALL..!

    All we did today was cook, eat and wait for hurricane Douglas to arrive Oahu... Praise be the storm stayed north just enough to bring out the surfers and not much else...

    Am eager to get back working on Mr. Mikuni... camoit, I just realized your info must mean it will be OK to put the carb top section with wax pellet into the heated ultrasonic cleaner bath water just below boiling... None of those choke parts have been disassembled or disconnected...

    The ultrasonic cleaner won't remove the black crud or carbon, carb cleaner and brushing/scraping takes it off... But the bath water does get dirty so it does clean somewhat... Am hoping the other parts will fit into the tank as well as the bottom carb section...

    Truck Lives Matter

  21. #46


    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    05-01-2018
    Posts
    569
    Location

    Kailua, HI
    Vehicle

    1986 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    TODAY bought Techron 'n will give it a try at cleaning carbon deposits ( the Sub EGR is gross with hard carbon deposit)... I am sure Techron soak will help but the unltrasonic cleaner will never replace carburetor cleaner + wire brush + scraper... Ultrasonic cleaner filled with warm water & only the glass jar has Techron; jar cap loosened to allow bubbles to escape... Ultrasonic cleaning IMHO would be the last cleaning operation after all the standard hand scrubbing brushing scraping, etc... Maybe an industrial ultrasonic cleaner cleans good but my cleaner is more of a toy-ota


    PHOTOS:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20200727_134359 - Copy.jpg 
Views:	5 
Size:	381.5 KB 
ID:	25419Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20200727_134428 - Copy.jpg 
Views:	4 
Size:	385.3 KB 
ID:	25420Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20200727_135153.jpg 
Views:	5 
Size:	106.4 KB 
ID:	25421Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20200727_135349.jpg 
Views:	5 
Size:	159.7 KB 
ID:	25422Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20200727_142208.jpg 
Views:	6 
Size:	112.2 KB 
ID:	25423Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20200727_142714.jpg 
Views:	6 
Size:	115.1 KB 
ID:	25424


    LESSON LEARNED:

    NAPA & O'Reilly's taught me that "O" rings come in two types METRIC & STANDARD... Chances are neither store will have what I need in stock but they do sell "O" ring kits $47.00 & $107.00 respectfully..! Forgot to ask if either kit comes with both Metric & Standard ring sizes & qty of each size? Google is teaching me that a 2% stretch of the "O" ring is good meaning the "O" ring I.D. should be a tad smaller than the groove O.D. it will reside in... Gotta use my 6" dial vernier calipers + inch to mm chart + measure the "O" ring CS (cross section) & "O" ring I.D. and O.D... The carb's selenoids and Bowl Vent Valve assy need new "O" rings...

    Sheeesh
    Last edited by xboxrox; 07-28-2020 at 03:17 AM.

  22. #47


    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    05-01-2018
    Posts
    569
    Location

    Kailua, HI
    Vehicle

    1986 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    LATE TODAY did more disassembly & gasket clean off to MR. MIKUNI; top of the carb needs removal of dah choke breaker diaphragm 'n then should be ready for a hot bath in dah ultrasonic cleaner... It's also gonna need the crud scraped off the two coolant water nipples on the wax pellet & digging deep to remove carbon in the bowl vent passage... My glass jar of Techron is chuck full of tiny little parts, many with tiny "O" rings... Surprised me that the only tough part to remove was the screw holding in the pilot jet... I failed to photo taking the float measurement after removing the top cover gasket but noted it measured .820" which would keep the fuel level on the lower side of perfect (right?) FSM spec is .787" (20mm) +/- .003" (1mm) The needle rubber tip looks OK to my old eyes & it held vacuum pretty well BUT the vacuum needle did fall but very slowly... Testing the J/Y carb float when it comes off the truck should be interesting cause that carb floods somehow... I am very interested to see if it has the same white plastic float or a slighty larger black float like the one that came from Rock Auto... I happened to notice the Autozone gasket rebuild kit has instructions that take the float measurement in a different manner & the picture looks like the larger black style float... The needle/seat filter had only one little spec of dirt...

    So I will be posting some photos of my mess, starting now:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20200727_172413.jpg 
Views:	5 
Size:	248.4 KB 
ID:	25427Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20200727_172606.jpg 
Views:	4 
Size:	188.8 KB 
ID:	25428Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20200725_111909.jpg 
Views:	4 
Size:	211.9 KB 
ID:	25429Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20200727_175228.jpg 
Views:	5 
Size:	180.3 KB 
ID:	25430Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20200727_181736.jpg 
Views:	4 
Size:	466.0 KB 
ID:	25431Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20200727_182749.jpg 
Views:	6 
Size:	107.7 KB 
ID:	25432Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20200727_184331.jpg 
Views:	4 
Size:	419.3 KB 
ID:	25433
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20200727_200813.jpg 
Views:	4 
Size:	201.9 KB 
ID:	25434Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20200727_201104.jpg 
Views:	4 
Size:	137.2 KB 
ID:	25435

  23. #48


    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    05-01-2018
    Posts
    569
    Location

    Kailua, HI
    Vehicle

    1986 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    July 30th 2020 9:30pm HST

    Tonight got more disassembly & cleaning done on Mr. Mikuni's fuel bowl cover, carb top section, air horn, whatever else it's called... The choke breaker, pull off diaphragm, whatever else it's called was fun to take apart & it's diaphragm was totally shot (no wonder the truck ran so rich on startup) The wax pellet does it's thing correctly in the ultrasonic cleaner heated bath water (see pics) the choke butterfly opened nicely & stays open... Bath water has Pine-Sol (not much) & Palmolive dishwashing soap (a fair amount) and the 2.5L size cleaner with basket is just big enough to clean the Mikuni parts...

    Mikuni parts are getting pretty scarce; ebay & Rock Auto has helped but not all is available (so far in my parts search) Now, I understand the convenience of the Weber conversion in the case of keeping the truck on the road any way ya can... Hawaii is a no smog state so if needed, a Weber conversion might very well help keep me trucking... I have not lost faith in fixing my Mikuni yet; luckily I have a 2nd carb from PicknPull to help cobble me a good carb...

    NOTE: Don't use Pine-Sol if you like the Golden look of cadmium plating ~ it will change it to silver gray color..!

    Until we meet again; good luck camoit in updating, please hurry, we need our daily fix of drucks


    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	WAX.jpg 
Views:	3 
Size:	115.1 KB 
ID:	25447Click image for larger version. 

Name:	WAX2.jpg 
Views:	4 
Size:	71.2 KB 
ID:	25448Click image for larger version. 

Name:	WAX3.jpg 
Views:	3 
Size:	107.3 KB 
ID:	25449Click image for larger version. 

Name:	WAX5.jpg 
Views:	4 
Size:	116.9 KB 
ID:	25450Click image for larger version. 

Name:	WAX6.jpg 
Views:	3 
Size:	239.0 KB 
ID:	25451Click image for larger version. 

Name:	WAX7.jpg 
Views:	4 
Size:	118.7 KB 
ID:	25452Click image for larger version. 

Name:	WAX8.jpg 
Views:	3 
Size:	105.2 KB 
ID:	25453
    Last edited by xboxrox; 07-31-2020 at 01:05 AM.

  24. #49

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    4,979
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    The auto choke release assist will also cause internal vac metering issues when they fail. This gadget is like $35 AUD by itself (when you can find one)
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  25. #50


    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    05-01-2018
    Posts
    569
    Location

    Kailua, HI
    Vehicle

    1986 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    The auto choke release assist will also cause internal vac metering issues when they fail. This gadget is like $35 AUD by itself (when you can find one)
    GOOD POINT geezer..!

    Maybe (?) vacuum metering issues could be caused if any software part under vacuum were to leak (?) (O rings diaphragms valve disks vacuum hoses etc...)

    Ordered a new choke breaker diaphragm from ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/333644647956

    So far these software items leaked vacuum in my original carbydisassembly visual inspection, vacuum test & engine operation confirmed):

    1) Secondary throttle actuator depression chamber (did not open the secondary butterflies)
    2) Choke breaker pull off diaphragm (rottened, did not operate the choke butterfly)
    3) Three of the four DSV ESV JSV selenoids had broken O rings (not sure the effect)
    4) The BVV bowl vent valve O ring (totally shot 'n gunked up the BVV diaphragm)

    Guess what..? After installing the PicknPull J/Y 1985 Mikuni carburetor; one of the first things I noticed was a dramatic increase in braking power..! Do you suppose all these leaking parts on the carb affected the amount of vacuum assist on the braking system..? Something caused the seat of my pants (foot) to feel a noticeable difference in ease of pedal pressure needed for breaking... That J/Y carb more than likely has a good secondary throttle acutator depression chamber because that carburetor caused the truck to have a new thing; passing gear..! Buwaaah..!

    Your Thoughts Anyone (Good Catch geezer )
    Last edited by xboxrox; 07-31-2020 at 02:06 PM.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •