Mikuni carburetor

[85Ram50]

Bummer they don't include a new float in the rebuild kit. They do with Weber and the one I got for my motorcycle. I thought they did with all kits.

[xboxrox]

Bummer they don't include a new float in the rebuild kit. They do with Weber and the one I got for my motorcycle. I thought they did with all kits.

I bought a replacement float from RA 'n it would probably work but it's a rather different configuration & as such, the float level measurement is taken a completely different way than the factory method (strange...) but I'm using my original float... It's a darn good thing member yamahauler sent me an FSM & member 4cylinders sent me a Mikuni carburetor in parts and a darn good thing parts puller Allen in Roseville, CA sent me the PicknPull 1985 California emissions Mikuni ~ without all these spare parts and a 2nd Mikuni carburetor; I do believe it would have been somewhere between tremendously difficult & darn near impossible for me to rebuild the Mikuni carburetor... With little to no practice and having to wait several months for parts, the memory fades with the large amount of time between disassembly & reassembly... There are four letter words that describe the situation better than my story above..!

BACKGROUND NOTES:
1) Leaking float & improper float adjustment caused flooding of an otherwise nicely rebuilt Mikuni (PicknPull carb)
2) My original Mikuni was a one barrel carb, not anymore, if it runs, it should work as a 2 barrel carby
3) My advice about carburetors, buy a rebuilt Mikuni 'n bolt it on OR modify with a new Weber (in that order..!)
4) Unless you have parts, tools, patience & experience, rebuilding the Mikuni is not my recommendation...
5) Is it just me..? Or, will the ball bearing in the fuel bowl drop out of place if the carb is turned upsidedown..?
6) In regards to #5 above (if yes) then the carburetor top needs removal again..! Yikes..!
7) In regards to #5 & #6 above; does the float prevent the large ball bearing from falling out of place..?
8) How would a person (perform a test) to get the answer in regard to #5, #6 and #7 above..?

Get the Wife to do the Work..?

[FMS88]

I bought a replacement float from RA 'n it would probably work but it's a rather different configuration & as such, the float level measurement is taken a completely different way than the factory method (strange...) but I'm using my original float.

BACKGROUND NOTES:
5) Is it just me..? Or, will the ball bearing in the fuel bowl drop out of place if the carb is turned upsidedown..?
6) In regards to #5 above (if yes) then the carburetor top needs removal again..! Yikes..!
7) In regards to #5 & #6 above; does the float prevent the large ball bearing from falling out of place..?
8) How would a person (perform a test) to get the answer in regard to #5, #6 and #7 above..?

I have a Hygrade FL87 float that's of no use to me. It's yours if you want it.
Regarding the ball in the float chamber, it sits in the channel in the bottom of the chamber shown in the first picture of your first post on 9/11/20. The ball is kept in the channel by two stamped strips of metal held in place by the two pins and screw/washer at mid-bottom of the chamber. In the event your grocery run takes a disastrous and unexpected turn, the ball pushes on either of the metal strips which in turn contacts the float stopping the fuel flow. I wouldn't worry about omitting the ball and definitely delete it if you don't have the metal strips. I've disassembled several remanufactured carbs and none of them had the ball and metal strips. Unless you do some serious 4-wheeling, omit it. Probability is in your favor.

[xboxrox]

I have a Hygrade FL87 float that's of no use to me. It's yours if you want it.
Regarding the ball in the float chamber, it sits in the channel in the bottom of the chamber shown in the first picture of your first post on 9/11/20. The ball is kept in the channel by two stamped strips of metal held in place by the two pins and screw/washer at mid-bottom of the chamber. In the event your grocery run takes a disastrous and unexpected turn, the ball pushes on either of the metal strips which in turn contacts the float stopping the fuel flow. I wouldn't worry about omitting the ball and definitely delete it if you don't have the metal strips. I've disassembled several remanufactured carbs and none of them had the ball and metal strips. Unless you do some serious 4-wheeling, omit it. Probability is in your favor.

I got the exact same float as a replacement but will stick with the original float, thanks FMS88...

[geezer101]

Bummer they don't include a new float in the rebuild kit. They do with Weber and the one I got for my motorcycle. I thought they did with all kits.

You don't get a choke release assist diaphragm (there are a few different types which is helpful too...) and some kits don't even have the accelerator pump diaphragm and gaskets in them (straight up useless as they are prone to failing). A 100% overhaul kit would have a new secondary actuator servo, a wax pellet for the choke, the choke assist and gaskets for 3 different 32-35DIDTA carb variants and the replacement fuel bowl float (say hi to a $500 rebuild kit) but they don't make them as nobody would buy them