I think the original factory rebuild gasket kits had neoprene gaskets instead of paper/cardboard. You can imagine how extortionistically expensive one of those kits would have been to buy from a dealership. I tend to think that buying a kit and DIY'ing it is a better deal than buying a reman'd carb. They don't put the attention the carb needs into them - they look pretty, but once you have seen how hit-and-miss the gaskets are you can't imagine some guy on a production line checking air gallery alignment and derestricting gasket overhang which is the difference between a 'working' carb and a responsive carb. The upside of buying reman'd is not needing a degree in Mitsubishi-Astronphysics and just bolting it up.

They are a biatch to diagnose and work on. The fuel bowl vent (as you've discovered), the water auto choke (just...don't even), secondary vac actuator (easy to fix, but the Achilles heel of noob truck owners that think their truck is naturally a gutless donkey), accelerator enrichment pump (a crowd favourite...), auto choke release assist (most people don't even know it has one or where the hell it is), the fuel cut solenoid (get ready to claw your eyes out in frustration if this thing ever decides to start glitching on you) and then you get to the fun stuff like factory pre-set adjustment screws that someone has tampered with (hey hey! lets see who can make the 3 pointer shot into the scrap bin with that !@#$ing carb)

George, you make a compelling argument for owning an ultrasonic parts cleaner - I gotta me one of dem Getting it spotlessly clean goes a long way to a successful rebuild. Keep us posted!