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Thread: The Salvaged MM

  1. #26

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    Adjustable shocks on leaf setups to help launch and travel.

    Offset wheels. Wheels that have a larger backspacing giving the vehicle more stance.

    And again, as for the s/c to make sure you understand. If I run a pulley that will give me 12-15psi to make 700Hp then I can swap a bigger pulley to make down to 8-10psi with a tune loaded up that is a lot more conservative. This will make street driving more efficient.

  2. #27

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    A stock 4G making 600hp? It's not considered stock if it is just the block and cams. The stock bottom end couldn't hold anywhere near that.
    https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/ho...6-awhp.490819/
    tell him (and others) what a stock DSM can or cannot hold then .... on a $150 used turbo at that
    what are your 1/4 mile ET goals
    and what are "offset style wheels" ?

  3. #28

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    larger backspacing means less outter lip then? .... as in wheels tucked underbody, as opposed to not sticking out
    you'll run more negative offset you're saying
    "offset style" makes no sense, to me at least

  4. #29

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    I meant more positive offset. Can't edit

  5. #30


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    Most 600+ hp 4G63's are dyno queens....... A few guys here have them and they don't make squat for power below 4500rpm. Boost comes on and they hit peak boost around 6500-7000rpm and hit rev limiter at 8000. Funny as hell that a 720hp 4g63 is slower then a 400hp Mustang, but looks impressive on a dyno sheet.

    I really hate to say this but unless you have tons of money don't use the garbage 5.7L Hemi they are unreliable. Granted for $25000+ you can build a nice 600-800hp one. You're better off with an LS with a couple of turbos or a supercharger.(and I hate chevys) Even a Ford Coyote (5.0) with 10lbs boost will make around 650-700whp for less money then what it would cost to build a 5.7L. Trans is easy just get a Magnum 600XL from Americian Power Train (around $4000 Complete) Diff easy again Ford 8.8, 9" or a 12 bolt Chevy. The nice thing about the Ford and Chevy is there is TONS of aftermarket support for those engines.

    600-700hp is very streetable with the right gearing and suspension set up. Built a 08 Mustang with 578rwhp for a customer (around 650bhp) and it his daily summer driver. Think of it this way most "New" cars push over 300hp and that's in a freaking mini van. Going back to the 80's a fast car (Mustang, Camaro) were running 200-250bhp where now the same cars are pushing well over 400hp and only weigh 600-700lbs more with all the crash safety systems. Hell my D-50 with around 350hp is real easy to drive even when I push it, the thing act like a normal car till I hit around 2800rpm then it wakes up till 7600rpm and pulls like a small fright train.

    It all comes down to the way the engine is set up and where the power comes on. If you're using it below say 3000 rpm it's acts no differently then a normal current daily driver.But mash the go fast peddle and HANG ON !!!!!!

  6. #31

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    Thank you! People don't understand that there is a difference between dyno sheets and actual performance. I can make a stock 305 hit over 400hp with spray, but it will still be slow.

    As far as the 5.7L, I have been looking into parts, including the Johnson lifters with the oil squirter design, and it is pretty expensive. So many people have LS swapped things, and I hate it, but I might have to. I'm a Chevy person, but the LS has been overdone.

    Man the Coyote 5.0 is nasty. Intake, cams, headwork, blower, exhaust, tune will get you close to 700hp or more on stock bottom end.

    I drive like a grandpa, shifting st 2k or 2500 rpms most days, so yeah, again you get it.

  7. #32

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    It would be considered negative offset. I typically say they are more or larger backspacing because of how much they protrude out the fenders, but the correct term is negative offset.

  8. #33

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    Most 600+ hp 4G63's are dyno queens....... A few guys here have them and they don't make squat for power below 4500rpm. Boost comes on and they hit peak boost around 6500-7000rpm and hit rev limiter at 8000. Funny as hell that a 720hp 4g63 is slower then a 400hp Mustang, but looks impressive on a dyno sheet.
    You can find garbage examples of anything. That example used a crappy ebay header and big plenum intake.... what spool did u expect ?
    Didn't schedule the dyno, suspected 500hp but made 600. Life must suck, eh
    https://www.homemadeturbo.com/new-me...-hello-118516/
    here is a DSM, same $150 turbo except on a diy paired runner header/oe intake + 272 reginds. Datalog shows 27psi @3093rpm!!
    = EXCELLENT response and torque curve. What more would you want..... to enter a rod-bending contest ?
    That's a 2.0L 3000 pound street car running a 10.1sec 1/4 mile ET. Life must suck with that slowwwww car

  9. #34

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    It would be considered negative offset. I typically say they are more or larger backspacing because of how much they protrude out the fenders, but the correct term is negative offset.
    Nope, you got that wrong also. Larger backspace tuck wheels inward = positive offset. Google it

  10. #35

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    Low9, what ET r u chasing ?
    For me, mid 10sec accelration in a buick GN is the limit..... bordering insane for public roads

  11. #36

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    I'm not wrong. I wrong the wheels to stick out the fender wells, not inward....

    I'm going to be chasing an 8 second truck.p

  12. #37

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    *want

    Also, again the power will be way down on the street. Eventually I'll be over 1kHP. But right now 700hp and running high 9s would be fine.

  13. #38

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    https://www.discounttiredirect.com/l...fset-backspace
    Backspacing is an older system of measurement to determine how deep the mounting pad is located in the wheel.
    Positive offset creates more backspace, while negative offset reduces backspace

    It would be considered negative offset. I typically say they are more or larger backspacing because of how much they protrude out the fenders, but the correct term is negative offset.
    then u r 'typically' wrong on the backspacing.... u want less or smaller backspacing = negative offset
    Offset wheels. Wheels that have a larger backspacing giving the vehicle more stance
    that is nonsense as well
    .
    DSM posted don't have much invested in it AT ALL - compact, ridiculous acceleration, superb drivability, ez/best fit, all mitsu......
    b interesting to see what this v8 drivetrain gonna cost
    So we've gone from, "Imma cyro my 5speed" ..... to a blown hemi 'pushin' 1000hp on pump gas

  14. #39

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    It is a dangerous game throwing numbers around without knowing what they mean. The truck has a good power to weight ratio compared to other similar trucks. There are bolt in options that'll make gains without a lot of messing around and changing ratios will improve acceleration. I had a beat up Chrysler Galant wagon (Dodge Colt) that I swapped a stock 4G52 and A904 auto into. I did nothing to it except have to cut down the tail shaft. It was almost undrivable in the wet (even with 15x7's wrapped in Dunlop track tyres) and humiliated most V8's and tuned imports. Nobody believed that it wasn't turbo'd or had a bigger engine in it than a stock single cam 2 litre...
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  15. #40

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    If you're here to just be a dick you can just hop off the thread. I WANT to run the 4G64/63 with a cyro treated 5 speed. HOWEVER, I will not meet the goals. I want with the setup on pump gas and consider the truck to still be streetable. I have been looking into doing a Hemi swap, but also stated it is up for speculation atm. Looking at the cost to make power (my current goal is 700hp, not 1000hp, please read) with the Hemi I might go a different route. I might not. I've got a build sheet I am putting together on different engines to weigh the pros and cons.


    So yes, on the backspacing "technically" I was wrong in the way I was describing it. Again, look at the thread, open your eyes, read. Pretty sure everyone else caught onto what I was trying to say.

    If you feel like, or even have the funds to begin, building a 700hp 4g64/63T that runs off 93 pump and is streetable please do so. Meanwhile I'll grab a shortblock V8, more than likely spend less money, make more power, and run off pump.


    If any of you own a 600-700hp 4g64/4g63 that you can drive on the street with 93 in it, then post it up. Otherwise read the thread, and understand why I'm not going that route.

    If none of you have ever dailies 600+whp then please don't tell me it can't be handled on the street. Guys are whipping their 600+hp LS swapped 240's, S10's, fox body's, etc everyday as grocery getters no problem. That arguement is invalid and irrelevant to the thread at this point.

  16. #41

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101
    It is a dangerous game throwing numbers around without knowing what they mean. The truck has a good power to weight ratio compared to other similar trucks. There are bolt in options that'll make gains without a lot of messing around and changing ratios will improve acceleration. I had a beat up Chrysler Galant wagon (Dodge Colt) that I swapped a stock 4G52 and A904 auto into. I did nothing to it except have to cut down the tail shaft. It was almost undrivable in the wet (even with 15x7's wrapped in Dunlop track tyres) and humiliated most V8's and tuned imports. Nobody believed that it wasn't turbo'd or had a bigger engine in it than a stock single cam 2 litre...
    ^^
    Very Humble respects to the Board--
    geezer 101 perhaps You should concentrate on producing a running vehicle ---

  17. #42

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    Love to
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  18. #43


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    geezer is too busy helping us fix our problems ~ he don't have time to fix his own ~ volunteer minions needed in Australia, decent wages, transportation not included ~ claych you wanna spend the summer helping geezer wrench on his truck ?

  19. #44

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    This thread truly “delivers”. ROFL!

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