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Thread: Inherited my Dads 88 mighty max. Looking for some help

  1. #1

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    Inherited my Dads 88 mighty max. Looking for some help

    Hello everyone. New to all things forum but looking forward to learning. I inherited my dads 88 MM 2.0 manual. It has sat for several years now because before he passed from cancer he didn't drive it much and I have had for two years and not much time or the funds to work on it. It does run(ish) but it spits and sputters quite a bit. hopefully due to old gas. I would really like to fix this up as it is the truck I learned to drive on and there are so many memories that I have with my dad in it. I want to get another thirty years out of it if i can. I would like to know some things that I should do first. I know the brakes need attention and a clutch kit is in order but I will admit I dont have a ton of knowledge on these trucks. Thanks ahead of time for any info. I really do look forward to learning and hopefully contributing to the community.

  2. #2


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    Hello Aries, welcome to MR50

    With engine COLD inspect spark plugs, replace or clean gap reinstall... Use LOTS of thread lubricant... A new tank of gas & new fuel filter is good

    Carb cleaner spray the carb choke plate & lube it

    May your dad rest in peace

  3. #3

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    Hi and welcome to mightyram. Sorry to hear of your dads' passing. We actually have a thread dedicated to noobs and what to do when you get your hands on your first truck -

    http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...and-do-it-ASAP

    IMO the G63B engine is a good starting point if you aren't super handy with a wrench. They are easy to work on, are pretty forgiving and in most situations cheaper to fix than the 4G54 or the injected 4G64 from later model trucks. The factory carbs on Mitsubishi engines take some skill and knowledge to overhaul - it isn't a gadget for the inexperienced to tackle straight up. Hopefully you won't run into any major problems with your dad's old truck but that is what the forum is for, so ask questions if you aren't having much luck with the sites' search engine and post up progress and pics as you go along the way.
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  4. #4

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    Thanks Xbox and geezer. I’ll check out the thread. With the carb being do you think I should do a Weber swap on it or is that a little more than just swapping carbs?

  5. #5

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    You need to get an adapter plate, and a weber carb from the DGV series. I got the 38 38 syncromesh carb (there are 2 types I'll explain in a minute) and it's a 400 cfm and honestly I love it. You need a plate that can adapt from whatever to 32 36 I beleive and it also needs to have the cover peice on it for the EGR because the DGV carbs do not support the EGR system (to my knowledge)

    There is a 32 32, a 32 36, a 36 36, and a 38 38. The numbers are the measure if the butterfly at the bottom of the carb, in mm. So a 38 38 has 2 38 mm butterfly's at the bottom of the carb. There is synchronous and progressive. The progressive is what you would find on most cars to begin with and it has a slip joint in the linkage. It allows for 1 barrel to open and the other opens when you are on the throttle more. Hence the name progressive. A synchronous carb has 2 gears connected to each butterfly shaft and they turn at the same time. My carb didnt hurt my gas mileage at all and it improved performance, though I would buy some jets and a jet gauge so that you can tune it up. Because you may have a 120 gauge and it runs good, but you might could downsize to, say a 110, get 3 more mpg and the same performance. I have the 120 jets on mine though I would go different sizes for different carbs. Also I personally would modify the factory air box to fit the carb because the air filter is sucking hot air from the engine bay and that decreases performance and economy.

  6. #6

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    This is the most recent inquiry on a Weber swap - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ber-Carburetor

    As Salteen has pointed out, there are different options for a Weber swap - the 32/36 DGEV and the 38/38DGES. The 36/36 is kind of uncommon - AFAIK we haven't had a member either install or ask about them. I'm playing with a weird 34DATA off a Lancia Beta (because it was something different and I got it cheap...) The 32/36 was the old stand-by for a swap but now vendors are promoting the 38 as it's a newer design carb that has more scope of performance potential.
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  7. #7


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    Aries, I am often the killjoy here; I believe in spending money a different way on my truck... Do the stuff the link above talks about & buy good gas & oil for your truck... Maybe a good set of tires & gas shocks too, if needed... A new set of windshield wipers, howz the fan belt (?), these kinds of parts... Spend as little as possible, save your money for bigger fish to fry... If you have a wife or serious GF let her have her vote in how you guys spend the money... Sex is not the only way to cheat... OK no more soap boxing today... Enjoy your new toy truck...
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  8. #8


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    Opps... Got nothing to say, just made a wrong keystroke...


  9. #9

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    Thanks for all the info on the carbs. I do plan to do the things in the thread first(at least most of it) but I was thinking of giving the truck a little more umphh. I dont want to go crazy just a little more power and something I feel confident will last. My wife knows how much this truck means to me and honestly it will give me and my girls something to do to get them out of her hair. I want to make sure I do the truck right with quality parts. I have a parts list started and I was looking for carbs to get some prices today and Im not sure if I am looking at the wrong sites or just not understanding what I am looking at. If I go to webercarbsdirect.com I cant find anything for my 2.0. The only thing that comes up is a 2.6. Is this the same carb? What part number should I be looking for? Thanks again guys for all the advice.

  10. #10

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    OK next thread for you to visit - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...carb-Becareful!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Do not spend a buck on a carb until you read that thread. There are a number of bad knock offs on the market and no matter what you try to do to make them work, you're going to be stuck with an expensive paperweight. Unless the primary reason why your truck isn't running right is the carb, try to debug the existing issues as this will save you throwing money blindly at a problem. Good luck and ask questions when in doubt
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

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