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Thread: New owner 1980 D50 Sport

  1. #51

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    Lewiston Idaho
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    1980 Dodge D-50
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    G54B
    Quote Originally Posted by tortron View Post
    #3 part number is

    MD701602, which is the shifter rubber boot in the ebay link. i guess theres an unlisted boot that goes under that?

    I just typed in the part #MD703619 on ebay, and it came up. Of course it is in United Arab Emirates... but it is still available...

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/183291579720

    At this point, it may be worth the gamble. I plan to give Mike Warme a call first.

  2. #52

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    1980 Dodge D-50
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    G54B
    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    Call Mike Warme at 818-268-3012
    Got in touch with Mike. His shifter rebuild kits are $18. He is sending one my way.

    Thanks again for the phone number! 🙂👍

  3. #53

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    Lewiston Idaho
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    1980 Dodge D-50
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    G54B
    I took the engine apart this weekend. The main and rod bearing surfaces all looked really good. The pistons pushed out of the top of the cylinders without any snags so I don't think that there is a ridge around the top of the cylinders. The bores all have a faint sign of hone marks, so I am optimistic that I may get away with a hone and re-ring. The bearing on the rear of the upper balance shaft had a slight amount of scoring, so I am glad that I took it apart. I plan on replacing all of the bearings and probably the piston pins as well.

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    I have heard that there are counter balance shaft eliminator kits, but am not sure if that is a good idea or not. I am getting a non-jet valve head for it, and I can see the advantage of that modification. Do the eliminator kits cause any issues long term?

    Hope all are staying safe and healthy!
    Jeremy

  4. #54

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    Adelaide, South Australia
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    1985 Mitsubishi L200
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    G63B
    There has been fierce debates over balance shafts - to delete or not to delete. From factory the rods and piston assemblies are within a few grams of each other so getting a die grinder out and shaving a little metal off the heaviest assemblies will bring everything to near perfect without machining and balancing the crank/flywheel assembly. There are plenty of engines that don't have balance shafts in them and were in production up to early 2000's - they don't try to knock themselves apart or massage your legs under throttle...

    Pros - rotating mass reduction. Improves throttle response, adds horsepower. Eliminates balance shaft bearing failure and deletes the secondary timing chain (balance shaft bearing failure leads to catastrophic oil pressure loss and RIP to bottom end) Subsequent improvement to primary oil pressure.

    Cons - some people have experienced secondary harmonic vibration in certain rev ranges, to the point where they felt it was unlivable.
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  5. #55


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    Calgary, Alberta, Canada
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    1981 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    Ford V8
    you can take the Crank,Harmonic balancer and Flywheel to a good machine shop and get them 0 Balanced for a for between $100-$200, then have the rods and pistons weight matched. Doing this the engine will perform better and you can eliminate the counter balance shaft with no problem. I have done this with the old Dodge 2.0Lengines and the newer 2.4L. What I don't understand about Mitsubishi is the Canadian engines didn't have a balance shaft in the 2.0 and the 2.6. that I have taken apart (79-84)

  6. #56

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    Some early Astron engines didn't have balance shafts, 2.0 and 2.6 forklift engines didn't have them either. The shaft design itself was integrated into Mitsubishi engines when they produced the Astron 80 but where they were implemented is a bit of a mystery. Astron II engines appear to have all been designed with balance shafts.
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  7. #57

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    * get a cheap pair of digital kitchen scales, weigh each rod assembly 3 times individually to get the average weight then shave some metal off the heaviest ones. Unless you're building a high RPM range engine, I don't think the expense of fully balancing the bottom end will yield any worthwhile results. I'd also DIY cylinder head porting. This will make the engine idle smoother, improve throttle response and make it more efficient. Nothing too wild - just clean up the ports, match the intake side and radius off any sharp edges in the combustion chambers and the backs of the valve bowls. Only basic tools are required (don't go chopping away at it with a carbide tool and an air die grinder - that is a bad mistake) A rotary die grinder like a Dremel, a cheap tool accessory kit to go with it, a flexi drive on a regular power drill and drum sander attachments that will just fit inside the ports. And do the port work before sending the head off to avoid damaging fresh cut valve seats
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  8. #58

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    you can set up a basic jig to hold the conrods at ach end while weighing to fully balance them, some good vids on youtube

  9. #59

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    Lewiston Idaho
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    1980 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    G54B
    Thanks for all of the great suggestions! My plan is to have a local engine builder do the final measuring and any needed machining/balancing. He has a good reputation for building race engines and is the good friend my friend. I trust that he will treat me right.

    I had read here that the two common mods to these engines was to delete the jet valves and balance shafts, but wanted to hear what you all had to say about it. I am not looking to build a high performance race engine, but I do want to make any needed improvements to make it reliable and simple to work on.

    If I want power, I will drive one of my V8 powered vehicles or my VTX1800 motorcycle.

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    I plan to do as much mechanically as I am comfortable with. I will leave the more technical parts of the engine rebuild to the professionals.

    Thanks again for all of the feedback! That is what makes these forums so valuable.

  10. #60

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    I read into your posts that your truck has A/C - the original condenser was probably an early design and not very efficient so you have the option of upgrading to a bigger surface area unit and they can be had relatively cheap but it might take some adapting for line connections. One of the biggest enemies of these trucks is heat. Having an efficient cooling system is a safeguard between you and cracked heads. Another worthwhile mod is the clutch fan delete. Installing an electric thermofan has a ton of advantages and you can pair it with a bigger A/C exchanger fan.
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