Ohhh, good luck with that. I hope the parts truck is viable. It would suck picking up an engine with the same problems. I bought a rolled wreck and scavenged a ton of good salvage off it, but I still haven't stripped it and sent off for scrap...
Ohhh, good luck with that. I hope the parts truck is viable. It would suck picking up an engine with the same problems. I bought a rolled wreck and scavenged a ton of good salvage off it, but I still haven't stripped it and sent off for scrap...
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As usual, I spoke too soon... I picked up the truck yesterday and spent most of the day stripping the parts off of it that I wanted. It had a near perfect grill, straighter front bumper, a bunch of interior parts, and a complete set of stock wheels with new lug nuts. When I was showing my son all of the parts, we took a small SS TIG brush and cleaned between the valves a little better on the "parts head" and found a crack on #3... so I am right back where I started, only now I have 2 pickups and 2 bad engines. Luckily, I only gave $300 for the parts pickup and I have got more than $300 worth out of it so far, but I am no closer to having a running truck.
I found on ebay an intake for an 84-85 Aries with a 2.6L does anyone know if this intake is the new style that I would need to upgrade my engine to the newer style 2.6L head?
Jeremy
honestly, you could justify the expense by A: saving yourself alot of trouble and B: having the money made off the parts you have stolen and cleaned up off this new truck you bought. whenever I am looking for used stuff, if the second time around it doesn't work, the hell with it and buy a new one lol
I hear you. My new plan is to buy a new non-jet valve head from either a local rebuild shop, or off of the internet. It will require an intake manifold and valve cover change to the newer style. But at this point, all of the used stuff that I can find looks to be in the same or worse shape than the one that came with my pickup. I thought I had got lucky, but all I got was another busted head. Well that, and some other good parts..
the reliant intake should work - it needs to have 1 bolt at the front of the intake, and one below the thermostat housing - your current truck has 2 bolts to the front of the manifold. The valve cover I am not sure if it will work off the reliant - it might be different in the back of the head than the truck, but then again it could work.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
I received the intake and valve cover last night off of ebay. The intake cake with the Weber adapter already installed! So that is a bonus. The valve cover also came with all of the spark plug wire holders and all of the little hardware for each of the threaded holes. So, all in all I feel really good about it. I found a shop in Florida on ebay that makes the newer gen heads for Starion/Conquests that are non-jet valve, normally they have you send your head back for a core, but since mine is the 1st Gen head and isn't usable for them, I don't have to worry about sending the core back.
I haven't ordered the head yet. I want to get the block out of the pickup and evaluate the bores/bearings/timing set before ordering any more parts. I imagine at the very least I will need rings/piston pins/ and bearings... but that is all unknown right now. My goal for the afternoon is to get the engine out. If I have time this weekend, I may try to tackle the shifter busing as well... it is very sloppy.
I got the shifter removed, and it appears that it is completely missing the upper plastic ball with 2 holes. I have the shifter completely disassembled. I have found the bushing and ball parts on ebay for a Mitsubishi Mighty Max. Looks like they will work. I do still need the inner spring cover boot. Does anyone know if it is still available somewhere? Looking on here I found an old post with a diagram, looks like the part number is 23127. If I'm not able to get one, I'm going to try to make a cv boot for an atv work instead. 2 of the 3 bolts for the shifter where stripped out.. so will be doing some heli-coils there as well. I can't believe that the gal that had it was even able find any of the gears... she did a great job of burning up the clutch as well...
I may have gotten myself into a neverending build... it is s great looking pickup, but it is really worn out mechanically.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Manual-Gear...UAAOSwVK9bAB2R
Nailed it
This might be a win for the upper shifter assembly dust boot -
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gear-Shifte....c100047.m2108
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Geezer for the win!
Those are the parts that I found on ebay for the shifter. The boot is a great idea! I hadn't thought about looking for a boot for a different transmission... My mind went straight to CV boot.. I would have had to cut it up to the smaller bottom ID to make it work.
https://ebay.us/L1iNq7
I knew someone would have some great ideas on here.
Thank you again!
Jeremy
Now I have no idea if the Nissan hardbody boot will fit, but it should have some stretch or a wire/zip tie should be able to pull it into shape if it's a little loose. We are lucky that small, but crucial parts like the shifter ball and bushes are still around... it would suck if there weren't options. The shifter rebuild kit should get it moving smoothly again
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the wonders of 3d printing and home mills should see us going for a while. not much money in it, but if you have a truck of your own as a hobby turning a few extra out to cover the cost of materials often seems a good idea
I am going to measure up the old boot and the flange tonight. I did it in a hurry last night when I started searching, and I think the shaft is about 1/2" and the flange OD was 1-3/4" but that was using a tape and not my calipers...
This listing for a similar Nissan boot shows some dimensions: https://ebay.us/CVncAq
I will compare that with what I measure when I get home. I was thinking the same thing about the zip/wire tie shrinking it down if needed. Anything will be better than the "2 piece" one that I currently have... Lots of tranny fluid has made its way out of that over the years... And who knows how much crap has made its way in as well... the fluid looks pretty clear, but I think that everything was serviced by the stealership that sold it to the young gal that I bought it from. She only made it from July to December before the head cracked.
the original boot on the top was held in place with twisted wire, so a zip tie is an improvement. If you didn't already buy the shifter kit, Mike Warme on here has a complete OEM parts rebuild kit with ball, bushing, pin and the top boot.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
I pulled the trigger on the ebay parts yesterday... I will let you all know if the Nissan boot works. My original had the wire tie on it, but had split in two right above the flange lip. I won't have the parts until next week sometime (depending on delays from the shutdowns)...
How do you search for members on this forum? When I type in Mike Warme in the search box, all I get is a long list of posts that mention his name...
Look in the members list - forum page below the header, click on 'community' and at the bottom of the menu is the member list
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The new shifter boot showed up from eBay. The bottom opening is way too big... I can get it to fit over the whole 3 bolt flange. I am going to see if they will allow returns.
I will see if Mike Warme still has the boots available.
It appears that Mike hasn't been on here for about 3 years... his inbox is o er full and will not accept any more messages.
Not sure what to do at this point. I really don't want to put it back together without that boot...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shift-Gear-...EAAOSwOdpX0P~v
This boot? im not seeing any other rubber boots in my parts manual for the shifter. but im not real familiar with these ones
IMG_20200322_131527.jpg
Same part number for km130 km132 km144
Call Mike Warme at 818-268-3012
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
The part that I need is the "spring cover" it is the inner boot that seals the shifter to the transmission. It is safety wired to a metal flange that bolts on with the shifter. On your diagram it appears to be part #3.
Thanks for the suggestions!
#3 part number is[top]MD701602, which is the shifter rubber boot in the ebay link. i guess theres an unlisted boot that goes under that?
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