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Thread: Need to see pictures of part

  1. #1

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    Need to see pictures of part

    Can someone please post pictures of the OE spare tire lowering tool?

    I haven't been able to find one so I'd like to be able to make one.

    Also I need to see what the clamp that holds the jack under the driver seat looks like. Mine is missing, there is only the threaded rod it screws down on.

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  3. #3

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    STELLAR! can you confirm my SAE readings of your micrometer please?
    68mm = 26 3/4"
    1" 9/16ths OD of shaft
    2" 3/16ths wide on flat ears
    6" 1/8th bottom of flat ear to end
    1" 7/16ths OD of T at end.

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by 85Ram50 View Post
    STELLAR! can you confirm my SAE readings of your micrometer please?
    68mm = 26 3/4"
    19mm OD of shaft
    25mm wide on flat ears (also stick out 13mm)
    64mm bottom of flat ear to end
    19mm OD of T at end.
    I think you were looking at the metric part for some of those (lower side is metric, upper is inch)

  5. #5

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    Thank You Again Tortron.

  6. #6

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    Thank You and DONE!
    Two more things off my mind. I have the tool and the mechanism works fine. $5 for 5 feet of 3/4 tubing.

    sparetool.jpg sparetool painted.jpg

  7. #7

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    Wow, you are a fabrication beast. I think you made it faster than I measured it

    I believe the factory jack handle/tyre iron is supposed to go in the handle end for extra leverage

  8. #8

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    I made the T longer so it is easier to turn but that is good to know. It sticks out from where the seat would be almost touching the rear bulkhead of the cab.
    Edit- Forgot to add the SAE measurements
    68mm = 26 3/4"
    19mm OD of shaft = 3/4"
    25mm wide on flat ears (also stick out 13mm) 1" and 1/2"
    64mm bottom of flat ear to end = 2 1/2"
    19mm OD of T at end.= 3/4"

    I sprayed the jack with WD40 and it jacked up. The middle small shaft goes up first. I think it is rusted inside. I have to bang it down with a hammer to make it collapse. The only removable part looks to be the screw that lets it go up and down and the rubber plug on the side. I may be able to take the pump apart but I'd have to destroy the washers holding it together. I may try to drain it and then put some of that Ospho in it to see if that helps.

    jack.jpg
    Last edited by 85Ram50; 09-04-2019 at 06:17 PM.

  9. #9

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    A generic bottle jack may be your most practical option

  10. #10

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    I was just going to ask what that one you have is.

  11. #11

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    Just what was available at the local chain store
    4000kg China bottle jack

    I'd have gotten one from a junk yard or something but I got a flat and all of a sudden had visions of my sizzor jack sitting under my other car at home...

  12. #12

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    Well I went out and fiddled with it some more and it loosened up and started coming up big piston first again. I think tomorrow I will try to raise the truck with it and see if it holds.
    Truth be told the screw popped out and a lot of oil leaked so I added more oil and that seems to have made it happy. I may go ahead and drain it and refill it if I can find out how much exactly it should have. Now that I am writing this I realize it was out in the weather for a long while and may have a bunch of water in it. That oil leaking out looked watery.

  13. #13

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    I drained the jack and got some new jack oil. Filled it, too much, got sprayed and then worked it up and down a dozen times or so by hand. Put it under the truck and the center post went up first and when it made contact the larger post started up. Once it was all the way up the middle post started going up again and lifted the truck. It stayed up without dropping for several minutes and dropped instantly when I turned the release key but stopped when the truck hit the ground. I was able to push it down by hand.
    I decided it works so I made a strap for it. need to get a nut for it now.
    Now what are those two hooks near the jack mount for?
    hooks.jpg
    tire/jack tools in place tools.jpg

  14. #14

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    The jack is held down by a rubber ring that hooks though those anchors on the floor.
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  15. #15

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    Thanks geez but the jack is mounted to the left. Its hard to see since I panted it black. It fits perfect I made a strap for it since the OE one is missing. I need a wingnut. I took Tortron's advice without realizing he's got all metric stuff in NZ and bought a couple lawnmower knobs. I am going to take the wingnut I have in and get some nuts in the same size and try to fit them into the knobs if I can knock out the existing ones.
    Makes sense that something would be strapped down with bungee cords there.

  16. #16

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    Thanks geez but the jack is mounted to the left. Its hard to see since I panted it black and the strap I made to hold it is also painted black. It fits perfect with a rubber bed for the moving part where the handle goes in and a cradle for the body of it. I need a wingnut. I took Tortron's advice without realizing he's got all metric stuff in NZ and bought a couple lawnmower knobs. I am going to take the wingnut I have in and get some nuts in the same size and try to fit them into the knobs if I can knock out the existing ones.
    Makes sense that something would be strapped down with bungee cords there.

  17. #17

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    The thread is an 8mm. I'd assume all the bolts on a ram50 are metric being a rebadged mitsi

  18. #18

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    Edit- OK I drilled out the knob so it would slip over the rod and used a grinder to make a slot be able to glue a wingnut under it. the 8mm threads are 1.25 pitch. I may have to get different glue the super glue doesn't seem to want to hold well. Have to just use a wingnut on the jack strap. I may modify it to something less difficult since it will be under the seat.
    Last edited by 85Ram50; 09-06-2019 at 11:39 AM.

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