bench seat

[geezer101]

The fuel shouldn't back log out of the line but I'm thinking about using one way check valves in my truck when I've done the swap. I don't know if that's a good idea or not but my bigger plan is running 2 stock fuel tanks and having a control switch to change between tanks. As for the outsourcing of jobs, there's always an element of risk. You never know what you're paying for but it comes down to skill sets and resources if you wanna DIY. Get burnt enough times and it will motivate you to try doing stuff under your own steam. Your jetting is wrong for the Weber on the 2.0 Replacing the jets with correct ones will massively transform performance - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post44111

[xboxrox]

Well 85Ram50 we all must work at keeping these vintage trucks & motors running decently -- you are not alone..!

I am blessed with having a completely stock truck but it needed paint -- $$$ (I'd like an electric fan to do my part for global warming :^)

[85Ram50]

Your jetting is wrong for the Weber on the 2.0 Replacing the jets with correct ones will massively transform performance - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post44111

Why would they send a carb with the wrong jets? This is the one designated for my truck/motor. Off the top of my head its the K610 kit.

[xboxrox]

Best Starting of my stock 2.6L
Winter -- just turn the key
Summer -- press gas pedal once & wait 30 seconds

Maybe try experimenting more?

Edit: Summer crank it if no quick start keep cranking & pump accelorator half way one time -- it starts

[geezer101]

Why would they send a carb with the wrong jets? This is the one designated for my truck/motor. Off the top of my head its the K610 kit.

They're generally jetted for 2.6 applications. If the jets are too big it would explain the poor fuel economy and not a great improvement in performance from the get go. I don't know the policies of the vendors that sell them but unless they have some way of allowing customers to pre order the size of the jetting, it will be up to the installer to set it up specifically for their application.

[85Ram50]

The paperwork that came with the carb from Redline Weber said it was jetted properly for the application. I suppose that could have wiggle room. Anyway I did a compression test and a leak down test which has me thinking I did something wrong when I put the new head wp timing belt etc on. I posted the test in gen 1

[xboxrox]

Well, there's been some fixing stuff on the engine in your truck's history; not all original configuration now... My truck is all stock engine wise & there was a big thick pile of service records that the US Govt (Navy) had that came with the truck... I only glanced at the records but there was a lot fixed + regular maintenance -- wished I could remember the name/address of the Southern California parts house they sourced from... All I really remember, is the truck came in a shipment of seven trucks from Nagoya via Portland, Oregon to NAWS... Records are gone now dangit...

Anyway, if me & I had a house with garage (willing wife & $) and my truck ran good enuff to be on the road AND there was a wrecking yard in my neighborhood (PicknPull etc) AND I was ten years younger THEN I might try pulling an original engine & rebuild it & keep it all original to transplant it back into my truck...

Autozone & others sell rebuilt original carburetors for these trucks (the carburetor model #) is under a metal ring at the top opening of the carb it comes off after removing two screws -- you need to remove that ring to read all the numbers... Grind or drill those screws out if need be :^)

It's a trade off, original lame but steady & modified fun but troublesome... ?
Happy Days with your truck my man..!

[85Ram50]

xboxrox thanks. It is running OK and starts right up as long as I remember to start it every third day. I was hoping the electric fuel pump would cure that problem.
Its mostly for hauling stuff to my house. Definitely nicer to drive and I'm still not used to that. Gas gauge is moving, not sure its accurate as it went below F then back up to F on the last trip and I'm only at 40+ miles on this tank. It tends to drop fast once it hits 3/4. I am going to have to make some time to try setting the timing again to see if that stops the idle from increasing as it gets warm.
It just occurred to me. If this thing had an OE AC what or where is the setting that would turn the engine idle up ? I'm pretty sure the PO told me he removed it among all the other stuff he took off.

[xboxrox]

Here are some photos of the dashpot idle adjusting from the Haynes Manual: (I dunno if that's the cause but you could check)

[pennyman1]

Geezer - keep in mind that using check valves will cause a pressure drop across the check to open it, so use a pump that will give you the pressure you want after the check valves - use a 1/2 to 1 lb check valve to minimize the pressure drop.

[geezer101]

Geezer - keep in mind that using check valves will cause a pressure drop across the check to open it, so use a pump that will give you the pressure you want after the check valves - use a 1/2 to 1 lb check valve to minimize the pressure drop.

Yeah, this was my main concern. If I want to pull off my crazy idea I have 2 options - check valves or electrically controlled solenoids to shut off individual fuel supplies. Check valves - cheap and simple (but might cause fuel delivery issues). Solenoids - expensive (have to run something that will like having fuel pushed through it and require a control circuit to swap between active fuel lines)

[85Ram50]

Thanks Xbox but that is all Greek to me and too small for me to see. I doubt it is the cause since this thing only has a very few wires connected to the motor.