Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Power Problem.

  1. #1

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-10-2011
    Posts
    57
    Location

    Sidon,ms
    Vehicle

    1988 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B

    Question Power Problem.

    Hi There.
    This is my first post.thought I'd cut to the chase.
    I was a member of the old forums.
    I have a bone stock 89 ram 50 sport 2600 g54b 4x4.
    I only use it for hunting and fishing.
    It had a rebuilt short block and new carb installed before I got it.
    I suspect the mechanic used the old head bolts. Bout every 6 months I have to put a block sealer in to stop blow back in ther cooling system.
    Here is the problem I have a new boat 16' 30hp. The boat motot and trailer is just a little too much for the 4 banger. The engine runs perfect If there is no head wind I can get 50-60mph.
    If there is say a 15mph head wind it will only get 45-50 mph and will over heat after about 15 miles. This time of year I may have to stop a few minutes to let it cool.
    I simply need more engine. A healthy v6 or straight six would be great. The head has jet valves and is total junk. A new head, headers and carb should completely solve the problem. I would only consider a bigger engine if it would bolt right in to the motor mounts and trans with no problems. Alturnatevly my neighbor has a Bronco with a 351 and big tires.
    It doesn't get gas milage. There are a lot of things I like about my ram50. I have 2,(one for parts). they are paid for. 2 sets of wheels and tires. and a camper shell to keep my hunting and fishing gear out of the weather.
    What is the sensible way to go?
    Thanks for the support.

  2. #2



    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    03-16-2011
    Posts
    3,614
    Location

    Sacramento, CA
    Vehicle

    1979 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    Chevy V6
    you can always put on a head from a 2.0 with no jet valves. It's a direct swap over. There was a thread on the old board about the swap over. It would be the easy way to go. Oh and never tow anything in 5th gear or you will toast the trany. I learned that the hard way.
    http://mightyram50.net/phpBB3/viewto...p?f=105&t=1181
    Members come and members go, But the board keeps track of them.
    Check out the Fear Monger by
    clicking HERE.

    The MightyRam50 site is sponsored in part by On Site Concrete Inc.

  3. #3


    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    03-21-2011
    Posts
    777
    Location

    WA
    Vehicle

    1989 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    4G63-T
    To me adding that sealer is a major problem. I don't trust anything atop leak because they are known to expand seals, and most of the time cause them to overexpand causeing failures. With your truck as is, you shoud do a compression test and cylinder leakdown test. If you are really looking to engine alternatives, you can go with another 2.4 or maybe a 2.6. We do have a v6 model mightymax and ram 50 but I don't have much knowledge on them. A turbo motor swap to me would be better then a v6 or a v8 IMO.

  4. #4

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-10-2011
    Posts
    57
    Location

    Sidon,ms
    Vehicle

    1988 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Its easier to find a 2.6l head on ebay. I let a caravan head slip through my fingers a few years ago. What is the model number of the 2.0l head or others that work.
    Those older parts are becoming impossible to find locally.
    I can get the power I need with a new head , head bolts and headers.
    That would solve the over heating too.
    Last edited by zzion; 04-10-2011 at 05:49 PM.

  5. #5



    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    03-20-2011
    Posts
    4,115
    Location

    Pittsburgh, PA
    Vehicle

    1980 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    G54B
    There are many heads available on ebay - if you go the 2.0 head swap, its off a g52b 2.0 from 79-82 - 83 and up is a whole different design from a different engine series. Get a set of ARP headstuds and you'll never blow a gasket again. To really do it right, you need to get the block boiled out to get the block seal out of the passages, especially since you used it more than once.
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  6. #6

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-10-2011
    Posts
    57
    Location

    Sidon,ms
    Vehicle

    1988 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    To really do it right, you need to get the block boiled out to get the block seal out of the passages, especially since you used it more than once.
    Is there anyway to boil it out with out removing the block from the truck?
    If I were to pull the engine I might as well put a v6 in or a v8.

  7. #7



    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    03-20-2011
    Posts
    4,115
    Location

    Pittsburgh, PA
    Vehicle

    1980 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    G54B
    Not real sure you can clean it in the truck - all the freeze plugs got to come out of the block to do it right. You could try to run a mix of vinegar and water in the motor to operating temp, then let it cool and drain it - then flush it with water until clear - its an old trick to clean calcium deposits out of the cooling system and won't damage the rad or other cooling system parts.
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •