Strange issue

[85Ram50]

85 Ram50 2.0 newish Weber, no ac
I went to the lumber yard and as usual I left it idling, then it died like it was struggling for fuel as I was walking back up to it.
They were real helpful, got me some water because it was hot, then some gas in case the fuel gauge was off then they jumped me and that was the trick.
So this battery is a couple years old and good, I have left the lights on until the bat died then traded in another battery to start it and put this one back in and it kept running and the alternator charged it back up.
Could it have been the heat? The needle was vertical leaning right when it died and the overflow was down low. Or could it be that my alternator is going out and the battery was drained? It looks old, not original but old. When it started I just bee lined it home.
Are the ones on Rock Auto the best choice or should I go for one with higher output? Those look like 45amp.

Edit- I was also suspecting a rubber gas line being sucked closed by the manual pump in the hot weather. Its 80ish today. Since I made it home I expect any fault in the alternator is intermittent.

[geezer101]

The Weber is sensitive to heat soak. Some members who haven't installed the insulator under the base of the Weber had experienced weird running issues when hot. The battery might be on it's knees as well. Go old school and test it with a hydrometer to check if the acid levels are still within it's specific gravity) Might be a bad regulator/diode - test battery voltage with the engine running (should be about 13.8ish volts if it's doing it's thing). There could also be a problem with the fuel tank venting. I've experienced one or 2 older Mitsubishis that would starve out for fuel on really hot days and simply cracking open the fuel tank normalised the tank pressure - presto, it's running like normal.

[85Ram50]

Thanks. I'm going to get the battery tested tomorrow I don;t have a hydrometer. I forgot to mention I opened the cap on the tank. I am pretty sure I have the insulator installed. I'll go look. Yup 1/4 inch black plastic or vinyl. Are the Alternators on RA good enough? It doesn't look like the tiny wires coming off the alt would handle a lot more power running through them. I can hardly believe they are enough to recharge the battery.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1985,ram+50,2.0l+122cid+l4,1096208,electrica l,alternator+/+generator,2412

Update-Drove it this morning and it acted normal. I think that means the heat was making it act up. I really flushed it good a while back and I put in a heater from a junkyard that worked better than the one I had. Maybe that heater core is clogged, it never did put out as much heat as the temp gauge indicates it should. Even this morning with it on and the heat gauge up to the middle again it was not very hot.

[geezer101]

Yeah the stock alternators in Gen 1's are barely adequate. There are lots of options with upgrading the alternator. If you are raiding JY's for one, some have a separate harness for the alternator (I pulled one from a Starwaron/Express van that had a beefed up connection with 2 main power cables running parallel instead of a single cable) As for the heater core I mixed up a batch of citric acid powder in hot water and pumped it through the core in my Gen 1 using a faulty pressure washer. It coughed up a lot of calcification and gunk (I was giving the heater/blower a full overhaul of hoses and seals - nothing like blasting out 30+ years of dirt and dog hair lol) The heater core shouldn't have that much impact on operating temperatures, so at a safe bet your engine is running within normal parameters.

[tortron]

You will hear the woosh of vacuum at the gas cap if it is that problem. Mine does it sometimes.

[85Ram50]

There was a mild woosh when I opened it but no joy. I think the spring I put back on last year was holding it too closed??? IDK the heat is probably the biggest issue and I sure wish I could solve it. That elevated idle when it gets hot is a bummer. I can't take this thing out of town, Last time I did it before I knew heat was a problem for it, it blew the head gasket an hour north. Which lead to new head new rad loads of flushing and angst.
OK SO I was looking for a larger alt and found this post http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...20-140-etc-Amp
It looks like a good idea especially since I own a 3.9 Dakota. But I am unsure of what is meant by "voltage regulator + pigtail for 73 Plymouth Duster" if I say that the guys around here are going to ask for details because they are using a computer not knowledge and I have no clue how else to describe that part. I am also concerned about wiring it.
I have no clue how I would remove the pulley and install another. I have a press so installing will probably be easy enough to figure out unless I smash the thing :/ .
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Genuine...gAAOSwnA9c81hZ Just noticed this one has a nut in front of the pulley so that might be solved. Yup the pulley on the one I have also has a nut. Never thought of that before.

EDIT- New question the Mopar voltage regulators seem to be rated by the amps. I have found a used alternator with 120 amps in town for $35. What voltage regulator will work? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...regulator,4884

[85Ram50]

The alternator in the local yard was a Bosch and it was out in the weather for years so I took a pass. I am still unsure about the wiring for the conversion to a 90 or 120 amp alt. I could not get the FSM section with wiring diagrams to open earlier today.
This afternoon I got some cork and I am going to put a gasket on top and bottom of the plastic spacer when I get time hopefully in a week or so. I couln't find a cork gasket already made for this. If anyone knows of one please let me know.

[geezer101]

Are you using the stock water pump driven clutch fan still? I have commented plenty of times that the Gen 1's struggle with cooling. The radiators are a little on the small side when compared to Gen 2's, so anything you can do to combat elevated engine bay temps is worth doing. A single bigger electric thermo fan or a pair of smaller units is a good start. There aren't cork gaskets for the carbs. They run risk of crumbling which would be disastrous if the fragments were pulled into the intake manifold. You will need the correct thick paper fibre sheets to cut the gaskets out of. I need to make a new insulator for my 34 DATA swap and was looking at making one from a sheet of teflon PTFE. The stuff is hell expensive but easy to work with and can handle more solvent and heat exposure than an engine can throw at it.

[85Ram50]

I put in a new stock replacement fan a year or so ago. I had some sheet PTFE meant to be cutting surfaces. if I had only known i would not have tossed them.
I think I want to get the larger alternator install worked out before I start adding draw to the system. I'm suspecting I may have to run new wires for more than just the charging system and I still do not understand it. The one wire coming off the alt has cracked casing in two places at least.
So you are telling me the gaskets I took off the wall to ask if they had them in cork were the ones I wanted all along then? :-) Good to know.

[geezer101]

I asked at a plastics supplier on their recommendation for a material to make a spacer out of (I showed them the cracked bakelite that came with my carby) and they pointed me to the PTFE but I wasn't prepared to pay the over the top price they were asking. I can order small 100x100mm/150x150mm 5mm thick sheets from ebay that aren't too crazy, but I don't have much choice as I won't be getting a spacer ready made to match the modifications I've made to mate the carb to my stock manifold.

[tortron]

Go buy a cutting board. They are HDPE same as bike fuel tanks and are stable up to temperatures that will kill your engine. Cheap and easy to shape

[geezer101]

Go buy a cutting board. They are HDPE same as bike fuel tanks and are stable up to temperatures that will kill your engine. Cheap and easy to shape

Hmmm, looks like I'm going to Ikea to buy a nasty thin cutting board. It's going to take some effort to get the textured finish off both sides but I'll have plenty to experiment with...

[tortron]

i bought a full sheet of the stuff (about 2m x 3m) and made some plenum spacers for my ecotec. then have endless cuttingboards and benchtops

you can get the thick white ones untextured, thats what my sheet is. a plastics places would probably have offcuts

[85Ram50]

On the topic of PTFE I found this https://www.eplastics.com/sheets/ptfe
They sell 12"x12" sheets. A .040" thick sheet is just over 1mm if laying them works??? a 12x12 is $12.30 USD plus shipping.
The .250" 12x12 sheet is about 6.35mm and its $52USD!

[geezer101]

On the topic of PTFE I found this https://www.eplastics.com/sheets/ptfe
They sell 12"x12" sheets. A .040" thick sheet is just over 1mm if laying them works??? a 12x12 is $12.30 USD plus shipping.
The .250" 12x12 sheet is about 6.35mm and its $52USD!

Yeah, anyone willing to sell a kidney or trade one of their offspring? I wouldn't attempt to multi layer 1mm thick sheets. The chance of an air leak is too high...

[pennyman1]

there are spacers on ebay made for these carbs in 7 and 14 MM and they are not that much: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Spacer-14mm...EAAOSwa1ZcEOVj . Even has the gasket with it for 17.00.

[85Ram50]

Hmmm, looks like I'm going to Ikea to buy a nasty thin cutting board. It's going to take some effort to get the textured finish off both sides but I'll have plenty to experiment with...

I was thinking about this and I came up with using the iron or using a torch and having a piece of scrap steel nearby to lay on it and get it smooth/put out the fires It'll unstick once it cools.
I am probably going to take Pennyman's advice. Thanks Pennyman.

[85Ram50]

Just got a message from that seller (partscontainer) that they are out of stock and "a date when this stock will be replenished is unforseeable at the moment"...
Found another seller will update.

[85Ram50]

Received the spacer. Won't be able to put it in until I get the other rig back on the road. Should be within the week Just posting to show pics of it. The packaging is obnoxious you will need a razor blade and to be very careful the gaskets are fully sealed in the same vacuum wrap but somehow separate too. ?? Just sprang into my mind, What if the studs are not long enough? spacertop.jpg spacerside.jpg Cost $16.83 shipped, free shipping actually.

[geezer101]

Holy crap, that is one thick spacer

[pennyman1]

about 5/8 inch for you English folks. Should still be able to use the studs you have to bolt down the carb...

[85Ram50]

Studs were too short. You can see the dark bit on the short one is to my eye minimum amount that needs to be seated for it to function properly so backing it out isn't really an option to me. Got some new proper studs 1.25" x 38mm it said on the drawer they came from. if you do that be careful these came through the bottom so I back them out until it was smooth. I used blue thread locker. I took a nut in to be sure it fit. It started up fine. I might take it out to get it hot later in the week.
For those who don't read
tooshort.jpg newstuds.jpg installed.jpg

Oh yea on nut was real easy to back off and the others were no effort at all. !!!? I went around them many times this time and I will check again once they get heated and cooled a couple times.

[Can1991Ram]

Just think of the thick spacer as extra plenum volume. You might find a bit of bottom end performance with a thick spacer.

I know my old drag car and my 65 Chrysler loved thick plastic spacers.

[85Ram50]

Would be nice.

[85Ram50]

Drove it today and there is more bottom end response. Easier starts from stop. It isn't very hot out but it did idle high at stops when it was warm. A kick to the throttle brought that back down. I guess that might mean I need to retime it or adjust the carb?