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Thread: Conclusive info on 4D56 head onto 4D55 block info?

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  1. #1

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-24-2018
    Posts
    70
    Location

    Lincoln, AR
    Vehicle

    1984 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    4D55-T
    Thanks gecko. I appreciate you reading it all. I know it’s a lot, it’s everything. Work I’ve done and gotten help on are in different threads, but I felt the need to compile it into one place. Both for you guys and Both of those issues are in debate. The current plugs are 6v and I have a set of 12v brand new ones. My buddy and I discussed which ones would be best to wire up for the manual set up.

    Out of curiosity how long and how many times do you work the glow plugs in different climate temperatures? Or is it based on the time the truck has spent resting as well?

    We have also discussed the lift problem, because of how well documented it is here. I was thinking with a rebuilt pump I’d be getting it. But I’m not. The man who rebuilt it will be running the system on his table soon and we will find out.

    My buddy has a kick ass electric pump from a 7.3 power diesel. He was thinking we could get a regulator and do exactly what psi/gph we want.
    I’m going to scan all the manuals again in the fuel section and google for how much fuel we exactly need to be getting to the mechanical pump for it to be right.

  2. #2

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-13-2018
    Posts
    26
    Location

    Alberta canada
    Vehicle

    1991 Mitsubishi Pajero
    Engine

    4D56-T
    Quote Originally Posted by gard View Post

    My buddy has a kick ass electric pump from a 7.3 power diesel. He was thinking we could get a regulator and do exactly what psi/gph we want.
    I’m going to scan all the manuals again in the fuel section and google for how much fuel we exactly need to be getting to the mechanical pump for it to be right.
    It's not a bad thing for there to be some negative pressure in the fuel supply. If a truck didn't come with lift pump as original equipment, the injection pump is calibrated based on the sucking of the internal vane pump alone. Where the 4d55 in the Ranger was equipped with a lift pump, calibration on the test bench would be done to match with OEM supply pump pressures. The pump's internal pressures aren't going to be drastically changed with the addition of a low-pressure lift pump, but get in the ten psi range and transfer and housing pressures in the injection pump are impacted, resulting in changes to injection timing. Still, this can drastically improve the starting and performance of a badly worn/leaking pump.
    So what supply pressures are we shooting for on a well sealed injection pump with good internal vane? the stanadyne DB2 is calibrated at 5psi because that is what the lift pump is intended to supply. The bosch VE on a 12v cummins has a regulated supply pressure of 3-5 psi. On the smaller diesels where there is no lift pump OEM, 1.5-3 psi in-line pumps will ease the burden on the IP vane pump, help purge air, and aid in the supply of alternative fuels while not restricting the flow when it is overcome by the vane pump. I suggest opting to omit the filter provided with some cheap in-line filters.

    It's wise to be monitoring supply pressure. you need a gauge that reads vacuum. A boost/vacuum gauge will work. The supply "t" will be installed between the pump and the filter if the objective is to monitor for restriction and over-supply. If for example the fuel gels, you will see the gauge bottom. If for example you've added an unregulated lift pump, you will see the pressure change according to engine demand. When burning alternative oils, the addition of a e-pump can hasten the switch from diesel fuel and be turned off when the secondary fuel is up to temperature, as indicated by the vacuum/pressure gauge.

    Good quality regulated e-pumps are expensive and unnecessary in most small 4-cylinder diesels with ve-style pumps. With these older trucks, often seen fuel problems relate to supply restrictions and sucking air instead of injection pump problems, and these translate into unnecessary wear on the IP's internal vane pump. Just think that there's the pickup apparatus in the tank(s), rusty sending unit and fittings, water separator and tank selector and connections (if so equipped), fuel filter and housing, old collapsible soft-lines, fuel-heater and connections all before making it to the pump connections. If a low-pressure inline pump makes a drastic improvement in performance, it's time to do some troubleshooting. If you want to do yourself and your rig a favour, learn how to use the hand vacuum pump like the mighty vac or a cheapo unit. If you're like me, you'll be glad when you discover that big, diesel-swollen bug jammed into the one-way valve of your inline pump.

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