Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 26 to 50 of 61

Thread: 1984 Dodge Ram 50. New owner, one old diesel.

  1. #26

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    10-29-2014
    Posts
    1,220
    Location

    Earth, the Solar System
    Vehicle

    1985 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G63B
    That bolt on the starter is a royal PIA. I use a box/open end wrench and try to meditate. It takes an interminable series of very small turns to get it.

  2. #27

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-28-2019
    Posts
    43
    Location

    Wild West, ID
    Vehicle

    1984 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    4D55-T
    Got the starter motor off, Used a 3foot long extension and a wobble socket for an impact wrench. lifted the front up and just carefully ratcheted away.
    For anyone who follows this: Leave the bottom bolt in when you go after the top (hard) one. The whole unit and bolt will flop around hopelessly without the bottom to anchor it, and the bottom comes out much much easier.

    Cleaned all the internals, cleaned the connectors and regreased the gears. Also managed to reassemble it in the proper order, though i couldn't get that ring to pop into the collar. Its kinda half out half in right now, won't pop out unless i pry it, but it seemed impossible to get it in the collar and in the grove on the pinion at the same time. I had the bright idea to pop it into the collar first and it was pretty much stuck there until i bashed it out with a socket. I assume this needs a special tool.

    Anyway hook the motor up to a battery and after a few attempts it started to spin and jump around. On a whim i put the solenoid back on and it decided to play ball this time. Not sure if the contacts are just bad and it was the old hammer trick to get it to work or what. I'll see what happens in the coming days, might get one on order just in case anyway. Time to put it back together and see if it fires up now.

    Wires seem off. I don't remember this thick white sheathed wire in here. I don't recall what post it was supposed to go to. MotorDissasemble.jpg

  3. #28

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-28-2019
    Posts
    43
    Location

    Wild West, ID
    Vehicle

    1984 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    4D55-T
    Alright false celebration. Bolted the starter back on and the key does nothing. I can jump the terminals and hear the starter turning, but without that solenoid to engage the pinion into the flywheel it just spins in its housing. It has to be getting power because when i turn the key it gets hot and i can hear a click. I could try jumping the positive and key terminal together to rule out the wire being the problem, but I think the solenoid is hosed.

    If my cursory research was correct that white sheathed wire may be the alternator. I hooked it up to the positive lead instead of the start motor lead. Seemed logical.
    In other news the blinker started working again. I'm guessing that mysterious ground cable was the ground for the blinkers. I just need to find a new front right housing, as this one was rusted shut. Still trying to get it to move, as of right now i can't get a bulb in there.

  4. #29

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    11-22-2012
    Posts
    132
    Location

    Grants,NM
    Vehicle

    1985 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    Chevy V8
    Fyi,these trucks have a starter relay on the drivers side fender well.

  5. #30

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    10-29-2014
    Posts
    1,220
    Location

    Earth, the Solar System
    Vehicle

    1985 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G63B
    I found out the hard way that there are two different starters for these. if you or the previous owner installed a rebuilt it may be one with the kickout of the starter gear is too short for flywheel contact.

  6. #31

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-28-2019
    Posts
    43
    Location

    Wild West, ID
    Vehicle

    1984 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    4D55-T
    Hmm. I have two relays that i can't identify as the part numbers have worn off and there is no mention of these in the manual i've been using. Any idea what one it is? How do you properly test a relay?

    I'm also hoping that glowplug controller works because they seem to be pricey.
    Attached Images

  7. #32

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-28-2019
    Posts
    43
    Location

    Wild West, ID
    Vehicle

    1984 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    4D55-T
    I think i have identified the two relays as the starter relay on the right, and the Tail Light relay in the center. Part number 056700-5440 and 056700-3060.
    I took apart the relay. (Good old times when things were made to be fixed!) and cleaned the contacts. I test the coil with a meter and i was able to physically test the unit by applying power to the leads and testing the circuit. It all seemed to work fine. Reinstalled and no change to the motor, The starter still won't turn on.

  8. #33

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-28-2019
    Posts
    43
    Location

    Wild West, ID
    Vehicle

    1984 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    4D55-T
    Ha I think i found one of the electrical problems i have been facing. I finally tracked down that leaky water sound.

    Would a less than stellar ground prevent the truck from turning over but allow the lights and horn to work?
    I was already attempting to improve this ground point, but it felt like the bolt was riveted in place as i couldn't get it to turn even with heat, I now have an excuse to drill it out and replace it. I will be getting some zero gauge wire to replace this one and i already have military style battery posts ready. Just need to get the ends crimped first.

    Would this also indicate something else is wrong with the truck? I would expect the positive lead to burn out, not the negative.
    Attached Images

  9. #34

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    6,059
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    Short answer - yes. It'll handle voltage and low current draw but the minute you want to put a serious current load through it, it'll choke. Degrease all of the ground bolts and clean the contact surfaces to the block and frame and give the copper eyelets on the ground cables a scuff up with some steel wool to brighten them up. Should make a big difference. Check the main positive lead for corrosion and ensure the battery terminal connections are solid
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  10. #35

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-28-2019
    Posts
    43
    Location

    Wild West, ID
    Vehicle

    1984 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    4D55-T
    I have replaced the grounds and tried to fire it up again. still nothing.
    I then jumpered the starter and got the starter to engage but the the starter itself can't seem to turn over the motor.
    I got the vehicle into a roll and attempted to put it into gear. It would just instantly stop the truck. I think i have a much more serious problem on my hands.

  11. #36

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-12-2015
    Posts
    185
    Location

    Owensboro, KY
    Vehicle

    1991 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    4D56-T
    Well, there are a couple of different things it could be. Do you know for sure if the motor turns over? Put the transmission in neutral, pull the glow plugs out, and see if you can turn it over by hand. If it doesn't then that is likely your problem.

  12. #37

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-28-2019
    Posts
    43
    Location

    Wild West, ID
    Vehicle

    1984 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    4D55-T
    Yup i did that. Pulled the fan off so i could get a socket down there and even with a breaker bar it wouldn't budge. Filled the pistons with penetrating oil. I'm hoping very much this will free them. I don't have the tools or experience to really pull an engine out, and a very limited budget.
    Worse case i'll dump some vinegar down the bores and see if it will dissolve any rust. I'll be patient though. I'll try and budge it every day for a week or two before trying something drastic.
    I'm tempted to put it into gear and drag it around the block, but i don't want to cause undue damage when a more graceful solution might work first.

  13. #38

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    6,059
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    Lifting your first engine can be harrowing. You really need a buddy to give you a hand to keep everything steady while you start jacking up the engine crane. When you get down to the nuts and bolts of it, it's not that hard. Tips - crack that front crank pulley bolt long before you start taking the engine out (it will save you a big headache later..), you pull a bolt out - put it back where it came from as you separate stuff (massively limits the chance of either losing something or trying to fit a bolt back somewhere it doesn't belong) Use paper tape and a sharpie to label annoying stuff like vac hoses and fuel lines and use your phone to take pics - LOTS of pics. You can hire an engine hoist if you haven't got a friend who is armed with specialised equipment. Google is freaking amazing if you need a get out of jail free card. If your engine is locked up, be prepared to wrench on it. You can get away with not needing a whole workshop full of tools but you will have to buy a torque wrench and a few driver sockets like 8 and 10mm hex keys for head bolts depending on the engine, no getting out of it but worth it when you weigh up what a shop will charge you.
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  14. #39

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-28-2019
    Posts
    43
    Location

    Wild West, ID
    Vehicle

    1984 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    4D55-T
    Alright pulled the rocker cover off. I'll dig in deeper once i figure out what bolts are bolting what down. But heres the photos.

    Nothing looks absirdly off. There is water under this cover though. almost looks like condensation. I'll leave the cover off for a bit so it can hopefully evaporate. Most of the oil in this is from when I change it and added the full amount as per the manual. Will probably have to strain this oil after i get this fixed, but hopefully it won't be in vain if it all helps it get loose again.

    The front two bolts holding the (camshaft?) shaft in are severly rusted, everything else looks fine.
    I have also noticed some pretty heavy wear on some of the lobes. Is this normal wear or signs of abuse and in need of replacement?
    Attached Images

  15. #40

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    6,059
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    Any cam that has worn like that is dead. Looks like you are in need of valvetrain replacements.
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  16. #41

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-28-2019
    Posts
    43
    Location

    Wild West, ID
    Vehicle

    1984 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    4D55-T
    Aye. Pulled it out. the rockers look fine, but they'll get replaced also i suppose. Trying to pull the head off now. Its like a puzzle trying to find what comes off first. Right now I'm trying to pull the turbo off so I can pull the exhaust manifold off. so i can get the head off.

    I have been labeling everything and putting bolts back in their holes when possible. Definitively the way to go. Thus far all of the bolts came off without much complaint. I hope this is a good sign for things to come. Slight burnt smell as i'm tearing into this has me worried about whats under the head, I'm wondering if i should pull the pan off first as I now expect there to be a mountain of sludge gumming up the works.

  17. #42

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-12-2015
    Posts
    185
    Location

    Owensboro, KY
    Vehicle

    1991 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    4D56-T
    A slightly burnt smell is kind of to be expected, especially on old diesels. If you need the head bolt tightening pattern I have a factory service manual around here somewhere, or there is probably one in the manuals section of the forum. You'll want to loosen the head bolts in the reverse order to minimize the risk of damaging the head when you take it off.

  18. #43

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-28-2019
    Posts
    43
    Location

    Wild West, ID
    Vehicle

    1984 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    4D55-T
    Been hard at work. Finally got the turbo and manifold off and boy was that thing rusty. probably a good thing i didn't get it started, theres so much rust debris in the fans something would of clogged.

    ALMOST got the head off. the last bolt, #1 according to the manual was right seized. I got all the bolts slowly loosened bit by bit and when i went to fully free it the inside hex just rounded over. My fault for sure for forcing it when it clearly didn't want to turn anymore, but now i have a stuck head bolt, Going to look for a torx to shove into it to try and break it free, and then a socket remover if that doesn't work. Hoping i don't have to resort to drilling it out.

    I went ahead of pulled the alternator for cleaning since i was right there anyway. It seems i have a melted wire. Whatever the solid yellow one is was just blowing in the breeze. the rest looked fine. Took the oil pump (I think thats what bolted to the back anyway) and it looks fine but extremely dirty. The alternator itself might be near end of life. The brush barely has anything left and it looks like it doesn't make full contact anymore, the rotary bit itself is fairly rusty. Havn't figure out how to pull the coils out yet, I unscrewed everything but its either stuck in the back or I'm missing a fastener somewhere. Whole casing is coated in gunk, if this still works I will be extremely surprised, it should of died of heat.

    Guess i'll get a few more cans of oven cleaner and blast the side of the engine since its now wide open.
    Attached Images

  19. #44

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-12-2015
    Posts
    185
    Location

    Owensboro, KY
    Vehicle

    1991 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    4D56-T
    That little thing on the back of the alternator is your vacuum pump. And just wow, that is a nasty engine. Cleaning it will make your life a whole lot nicer when it comes time for working on it.

  20. #45

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-28-2019
    Posts
    43
    Location

    Wild West, ID
    Vehicle

    1984 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    4D55-T
    Vaccum pump? How does it work? One side was coming out of the engine block below the oil filter, the other line went to the turbo. I thought for certain it was the oiler for the shaft. The manual i've been using it for the non-turbo version of course and doesn't list it. Isn't the vacuum pump the giant tank on the right in front of the driver side firewall?

  21. #46

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    6,059
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    I gotta say, that has to be the filthiest engine I've seen. All that crap in the back of the alternator would roast it due to lack of air flow. I'm not a diesel guru (in fact I'm an ignoramus...) but the pump on the back of the alternator is what generates braking vacuum for the master cylinder, so it will need a reserve tank so there's a vacuum source available during high demand or an engine shut down (my semi-educated guess)
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  22. #47

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-28-2019
    Posts
    43
    Location

    Wild West, ID
    Vehicle

    1984 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    4D55-T
    Well. I found the problem. Its safe to say this whole project was a waste of time.
    The head is cracked. the gasket was apparently blown because piston 4 is full of coolant, and piston 3 is full of chili.

    I read that the block should have sleeved cylinders, which might make this salvageable. but honestly i feel like i should just start parting it out. I'll have to look at pick and pulls farther away if I have any hope of getting workign parts for this. I don't have the cash right now for a korean 4d56 right now.
    Attached Images

  23. #48

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    01-24-2017
    Posts
    1,209
    Location

    New Zealand
    Vehicle

    1981 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    Other
    yup shes pooched

  24. #49

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-12-2015
    Posts
    185
    Location

    Owensboro, KY
    Vehicle

    1991 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    4D56-T
    There's a guy in Miami that imports 4D56 and 4DBH (the Korean version).He usually sells them to the guys down in South America when they get tired of the common rail versions of these motors. I'm running one from him now and it as been a really good motor. We paid a little over $2000 to get it here, if that's doable for you then I'll see if I can find his contact info again.

  25. #50

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-28-2019
    Posts
    43
    Location

    Wild West, ID
    Vehicle

    1984 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    4D55-T
    Yea thats doable with some savings. Its a complete engine? Would love some more information

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •