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Thread: 1992 Mighty Max 3.0l 5spd Manual 4x4

  1. #26

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    Unless there is visible or audible damage i wouldn't pull a pan. These chemicals break down oil, so in all likelihood you will be wasting your time.

  2. #27


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    Geoff dang you "Geoff" removed the oil pan again..! No wonder you chose the name Geoff coz you must really love wrenching dude

    Just joking OK

    How about remove the oil pan completely (much work I'm guessing?) and spend the $200 to $350 to have it powder coated with your favorite color..?

    I'm serious, serious coz you have an awesome truck to keep & enjoy...

    Please keep us all posted on your findings and THANKS

    P.S. 1st thing FIND 'n BUY the Rislone & two Wix oil filters and 9 qts of your favorite oil ~ 2nd thing do a HOT engine crankcase oil 'n Wix oil filter change MINUS one qt for the Rislone ~ (engine is now ready for adding 1 qt Rislone)

    Rislone comes in various flavors, I used the one for valve train valve lifter noise AND I ran the crap out of the truck on the Hwy in various gears to get the RPMS up and doing the 5th gear flooring it 50 to ?? mph ALL THIS for 30 minutes AND THEN drove it straight to the MCBH auto shop and did a 2nd oil & filter change ~ no more tick tick tick ~ I've had this issue twice with same positive result...

    A product called CATACLEAN ($22 to $28) @ O'Reilly's has helped my truck have more power & smoother power ~ use it when you do the 30 minutes of Hwy racing with the Rislone (both products call for running the dog doo doo outta dah truck for 30 minutes or 30 miles BUT the CATACLEAN requires use in a 1/4 full or less gas tank ~ supposedly this stuff removes crud & carbon from the catalytic converter and exhaust ~ IMHO and AFAIK and a teaspoon of common sense this stuff that cleans out carbon from the cat WELL IT TRAVELS past the piston rings & valves on it's way to remove carbon all the way out the tailpipe ~ maybe just maybe it also has some affect inside the engine too..?

    No Malice Intended Geoff and no malice for anyone elsr here + thanks for letting me have my rant on your thread

  3. #28

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    I’m in a pickle now. A mechanic friend recommended I reinstall the oil pan with a gasket maker (Right Stuff in this case). Knowing (or so I thought) that I wouldn’t pull the pan again until rebuild time, I agreed and reinstalled the pan with Right Stuff instead of the pretty gasket I paid for. Doh! Now I need to pull the pan but can’t. It’s glued on tight! I broke the seal with a putty knife in a few spots so I have to pull the pan because it’s going to leak if I run it as is. If you’re gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough - or at least not whine about the consequences of your own dumbness. So I think it’s rebuild time. I’m going to build a custom gasket-maker breaker tool and hit it with heat tomorrow as a last resort. I started a thread in the gen 2 forum re 6G72 rebuild kits. I’m stoked on the rebuild, just not ready for it.

  4. #29

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    xboxrox,

    Thanks for giving me sh*t! I can take it. I’m learning and will do plenty more dumb stuff along the way. It’s how I learn - for better or worse. Muck it up the first time and adjust from there. Ok, maybe muck it up twice (water pump. Doh!).

  5. #30


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    Quote Originally Posted by Geoff View Post
    xboxrox, Thanks for giving me sh*t! I can take it. I’m learning and will do plenty more dumb stuff along the way. It’s how I learn - for better or worse. Muck it up the first time and adjust from there. Ok, maybe muck it up twice (water pump. Doh!).
    Ha Ha Sir, we all learn sumpin working on these Mitsubishiz ~ I'm too old to live long enuff to own & wrench on an EV "thank goodness"

  6. #31

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    Finally got the oil pan off. Painter’s tool (scraper) was key. Stiffer than a putty knife. The oil pick up screen was clean except for a small spot of gasket maker. The pan must have touched the screen during installation, transferring a dab of gasket goop. Not enough to cause problems. I’m back to running it until it breaks. I’m going to use a proper gasket this time. Cleaning the Right Stuff off the bottom of the engine took three hours. Don’t want to do that again. I might start a 1999 Nissan Frontier project. My Mighty Max is too rare and nice. I just can’t bring myself to cut the body for bigger tires and bumpers. I’ll probably stay mostly stock with the exception of a locking diff axle out of a ‘97-‘99 Montero sport and LSD up front. I won’t hesitate to carve up the Nissan. Thanks again for all the feedback.

  7. #32

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    Get her cleaned up. Adding a rear locker or LSD is clutch for off-roading. I have several now myself.

  8. #33

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    Quick update: The oil pickup tube/screen was clean. Finally got it all back together but haven’t had a chance to do a long drive yet to determine whether or not the noise went away. There’s no reason it should have, other than fresh oil and filter. Hopefully, this weekend I can put some miles on it. In case anyone is curious, it’s a huge pain to remove the oil pan without a lift. I can’t crawl under cars any more without taking Dramamine or I’ll barf. Oil pan removal on the garage floor was a test for sure. But hey, it was a step up from the last time I did out in the gravel driveway!

  9. #34

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    Oil pickup tube is clean. Got it all back together. Sound is gone. Not sure what that means. I’m back to running it until it dies.

  10. #35

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    Glad its up and running.

  11. #36

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    I forgot to update this thread. The oil pick up tube was clean. I changed the oil pump while I was in there. The pump was fine but I changed it anyway. A year later, I’m still driving the truck. It runs great. Not sure what was going on. It used to lose coolant. No leak. Wasn’t burning it. Not sure where it went. I don’t know how or why but it no longer loses coolant. Meh. Now, it’s leaking oil from the passenger side valve cover. The gasket is new. Not sure what happened. That’s my next project. I’ve been taking this truck down some serious offroad trails. It’s taken a beating but won’t stop. Definitely my favorite vehicle that I’ve owned.

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