Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
You can either remove the EGR valve solenoid and fit a blanking plate over it (easy to make) or just leave it in place with the vac hoses disconnected. The Christmas tree vacuum barb on the manifold needs to be removed and a threaded bung screwed into there. The water barb connection for the heater return and carb choke should be removed and a single upright barb installed (the original barb will most likely be paper thin from rust anyway) The rest of the vacuum connections are only vac thermo switches and pose no risk to vacuum leaks but you could delete them for appearances sake.

I went a little nuts with mine and completely cut off the EGR gallery running around the manifold plenum and sculpted the manifold. Mine was easier to do as it was off a Gen1 G63B and didn't have a lot of emissions control ancillaries on it and didn't have jet valves either (I had to prepare the manifold for repairs anyway as the water jacket cover plate under the plenum had corroded out and had a few pin holes in it). I capped off the gas gallery that runs through the head into that EGR gallery and ran a metric thread tap through the coolant port that is located on the carb mounting face/seat and installed a grub screw in there to seal it off. Not entirely necessary but reduces the risk of coolant somehow backing up into the plenum if the carb install kit manages to develop a leak.
Do you know what size threads the water barb has? I am doing this in my driveway and would like to purchase the single barb before I remove the one with the "T." Also, is that something I can just purchase at an auto parts store? Thank you