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Thread: 1991 monty max 4x4. V6 to 4g swap & RHD. need 4g fit aide

  1. #51

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    I'll hafta look a Lil closer at what it goes to exactly, but I'd hafta swap the chassis harness with the engine injection
    harness, the ecu is mounted in front of the door jam just inside the cab on the right hand side.
    So I'd need to re-route the injection loom to the other side and the chassis loom visa-versa haye???
    I believe your versions just have either an extension loom to bring the dash & controls plug ends to the right side.

    "The lower panel of the well side tray...." Ur going to need to re phrase that or direct me to the area ur speaking of by
    describing other surrounding objects, cause I've no clue what a well-side tray is, forgive my ignorance.

    Its like the bonnet=hood, boot=trunk, loom=harness, etc.... I'm just not familiar with the rest of the body
    panels, translations, if you will, into Aussie, kiwi & British English dialect, or slang. I would like to learn
    tho, in no way meant to offend anyone w anything I wrote. I like hearing/learning new "strains" of english

  2. #52

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    Well, I know that Oz and NZ don't refer to D-50's and MM's as 'trucks' but we do it to fit the the format here (we call them 'utes' - the abbreviation of light utility vehicle) South Africans call them 'bakkas' (probably something to do with throwing your payload in the back) I think the ECU's in RHD trucks are still mounted on the left side but under where the glovebox is situated
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  3. #53

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    Nice teach me some more s.African terms! An even the outback variation too wouldbe awesome.

    My idler arm is supposedly here, unfortunately at present its locked in the mailbox and my 2 attempts to
    coerce the lock into rotating open, failed. Being that this was at 1-1:30am I decided to abort any further
    attempts at lock smithing & avoid getting arrested for tampering with a mailbox lockin the wee hours..
    So I'll hafta wait til morning.

    After further inspection of the chassis & injection looms, they both jump from the firewall to the engine almost
    in the middle of the firewall, as well as there is a ziptied loop of extra length in the inj. loom under the bonnett,
    so I shud be kosher to swap the ecu side with the fuseblock side where they go thru the firewall.
    Same size holes, an then the fuses will be on the drivers side ( I was gonna leave em on the left over the battery's
    new location, but it'll be more properist on the right switched w the ecu.)
    Only thing that makes me nervous is the wires being so old and brittle, I hope none crack & develop
    phantom shorts.

    I have no tracking info on the steering box, seller & eBay states that its shipped, but there's no track package
    tab and he ain't replying to my messages anymore... So well have to wait & see I suppose.

    I have some rear brake line/system deletion quandaries, but I'll wait til I have some pictures to splain a bit more
    pacifically to yall...

  4. #54

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    Yeah if mess with DSM stuff you will soon hear about wiring harnesses developing mystery faults from broken wires. Put money on trucks suffering from similar issues when you man handle the wiring. I don't know beans about South African slang - only found out when I was looking up where the Mighty Max/Triton/L200 ended up being sold around various continents etc (it might even be 'bakkie' - got a feeling might be the latter...) Ugh I hope you don't get played from the guy in the UK. Getting burnt like that doesn't do your faith in humanity any favours
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  5. #55

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    Two weeks later....

    So the idler arm is here. Yae. box was totally F'ed, one seam torn completely open, no
    packing material to speak of. the whole arm was hangin out the side when i picked it up....
    but the part wasnt damaged, the nut was threaded on enuff to not spin off somehow, if
    there was a cotter pin/grease fitting they are long gone. no worrys.

    My hasty purchasing has supplied me with parts off of a 2005 mkIII trition/L200, which is nice
    cause they are newer parts, esp the steering box which is used. But alas, the dimentions are
    NOT quite the same. Not off enough to worry me, just hafta persuade things a bit more is all.

    the two forward holes are close enough to call the same:
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    but the 3rd is off by a good 1/8 inch off, maybe a tad more:
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    thats how much its off, not much:
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    they are just thru-bolted thru the frame rail so ovaling out a hole is not a big
    deal, but there are other dimentional issues at hand here. most obtrusivley
    is the idler arm itself, which is about 1/2 inch LONGER than the MKII maxes:
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    now things start to get tight when you look at the clearances between the
    lower control arm, the tie-rod, shock, etc. in here. until i can get the LHD
    idler arm & box removed and actually place things against the framerail its
    hard to tell exactly how close everybodys gonna be:
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    hopefully the idler arms balljoint will clear the bump-out in the tie-rod, if its too close
    im either going to slot the steering box holes & move the idler arm & steering box
    forward on the framerails like 1/4-3/8 inch, shudnt need more than that, prolly wont
    take the whole 1/2inch, looks like enuff space.

    OR, i was going to rotate BOTH the arm & the box a tad to change the angle of the
    idler & boxes pivots like 10 degrees or so, thusley:
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    thing is it'll move the balljoint down which is closer to the lower control arm, so we'll
    see once the box arrives ( if you jinxed me geezer so help me...) and i can get things
    mocked up on the frame.

    ive been lazy this week, ive nothing else to report/post, sadly.

  6. #56

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    i forgot to snap some pics of the rear brake lines and the odd capsule/canister i found in front
    of the right rear wheel, tucked up under the bed corner, has brake lines and vac lines going
    into it. i was following the 2 brake lines as i want to delete the load/pressure regulator unit
    that is mounted over the rear axle.... hoping i can delete all that shit and just have a brake
    line ( or even if need be) to the rear brakes. ill snap some in a bit & slap em up show u wat
    im talkin bout.

  7. #57

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    So ive got this thing sittin around, it wouldnt be hard to fit this guy into Montgomery.
    its a vw 2.0L 16v dohc (aba/16v) w/ t3/t04 custom header & intake manifold.
    just needs a megasquirt kit and it'll do 300whp....

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    heres the stuff i want to delete from underneath the truck, any reason why i should NOT???
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  8. #58

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    I think the rear bias brake proportioning valve has to stay. IIRC at least one or 2 members have had problems with their brakes after messing with these things (one was due to it failing outright and not being able to source a replacement unit) but this may be load proportioned - more load on it via the spring = more actuation of the brakes. Someone will chime in on this...
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  9. #59

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    i know what its there for, but i want all that extra shite gone...

    even if i gotta install an aftermarket bias valve, im thinking about ditching the mechanical e-brake and putting in
    a line lock or was even thinking about a stand-alone cylinder with its own resivor so its not reliant on the primary
    brake system & can actually be an emergency brake.

  10. #60

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    I just don't know what this thing is. I'm leaning towards a vacuum tank to keep the booster & brakes harder if u stall out on a steep incline maybe, idk?????

  11. #61

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    Proportioning valve and the other looks like the rear ABS. I would at least keep the proportioning valve.

  12. #62

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    Yeah the entire e-brake/hand brake assembly isn't exactly inspiring or beautiful. I'm considering going hydraulic e-brake/drift brake with a lever locker on it just to simplify the set up, something easy to mount between the seats on the trans tunnel...
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  13. #63

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    The thing is I'm not sure i wana go to buckets, i kinda like the bench. In which case I need to
    utilize the OE handbrake under the dash/column.....
    I can get creative with arms & levers, I'm even thinking about a clutch master cyl w its own line
    going to a motorcycle caliper or some tiny rear caliper off a car, squeezing either one of the
    (hopefully) 2 rear disks or I was even thinking about a tiny rotor on the driveshaft to the rear
    diff. Me padre said monster trucks run one giant rotor on the driveshaft behind the tranny.
    Thought that was interesting idea.

  14. #64

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    I got tired of the bench. Long rides and that saggy thing kills your back.

  15. #65

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    More pics from different angles ???
    What are these (marked in red)
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  16. #66

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    those are the bed mount towers coming up off the framerails, the black cylenders atop them
    are the 4inch lifts. that shot is from above the driveshaft looking to the right over the right-side
    framerail. ill take more pics soon.
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    heres some labels to kinda get oriented......

  17. #67

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    Charcoal canister?

  18. #68

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    nope its not the charcoal can. thats up underneath the hood.
    heres sommore pictures of the mystery can and where it is:
    Attachment 22085 Attachment 22086 Attachment 22087
    Attachment 22084 Attachment 22088 Attachment 22089

  19. #69

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    heres where im at with the wipers. the linkage is mounted, but theres a tiny difference between
    the RHD & LHD linkage, i have to clock the end of the arm which bolts to the motor, see:
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    need to get clocked 90 deg from 12 to like 3 or so.

    the wiper blade arms are also R/LHD specific, theres a wee little tweak that needs to go
    the other direction:
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    and heres what they look like now:
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    still need a little tweaking but theyre close. ive got it nextdoor tonight in the
    welding/body shoppe. gonna tryin get some firewall stuff welded in. hopefully
    weld in the wiper motor mount & fix the linkage. ill post up whatever i get done.

    gonna have a cup of tea and a schmoke & get to it. more pics in the wee hours

  20. #70

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    IDK wat happened to the 1st mystery can post. mysterious.....
    try again
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    realized theres a vacuum line that comes out of the top of this thing and into the rear right
    corner of the cab. im puzzled by this.:
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  21. #71

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    I had an idea to make my own wiper linkages using heim joints and threaded rods - however I have no idea if it would work... These linkages are getting old like the rest of the truck and IDT anyone will do through the effort to either reman these or find an off the shelf /newer assembly that is compatible.
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  22. #72

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    they sell new mk1 pajero wiper linkage its on ebay uk, but its from malaysia:
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Mitsu...QAAOSwbtNaRedK

  23. #73

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    i was going to order new linkage for this truck, but im outta cash after shelling out for that steering box.
    perhaps itll get a new set somtime, but these will suffice for the time being.

    i got the clutch & brake re-enforcement plates done and welded on the firewall. and pulled off the horrid clearance
    lights atop the cab, bunch of screw & wire holes to fill. PITA. have pics in few more hours.
    now onto the clutch support, wiper motor & linkage.

  24. #74

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    brake & clutch 85% done....

    so i pulled the BS clearance lights that some dumb shite drilled 3 holes x5 lights so x15
    holes in the paper thin roofskin. lots of body work up here:
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    looks much much betterer.

    Got the brake booster plate cut out and the mitsu logo too:
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    And the plate re-enforcements and clutch support all welded in place, then a quick grind
    and some primer until i can prep the whole cab and paint the floors, firewall, and jams.
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    i still need to make two bosses to bolt the tabs on top of the brake pedal assembly to, but i haft to wait
    until I patch the old blower motor intake hole, because one of the tabs is under that hole at present...

    i gotta go to an appointment at 9am, so im done for the night/morning. ill be back at it later on.
    hopefully that steering box shows up in the next few days. im ready for it.
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  25. #75

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    Grrr of all the places to blow holes in a panel, the roof turret is the worst place to do it. You are really getting into this truck and making lots of progress. It's a PITA setting up the pedals but at the same time you'll bee able to tweak them so they suit you perfectly. It's coming along nicely
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