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Thread: 1991 monty max 4x4. V6 to 4g swap & RHD. need 4g fit aide

  1. #26

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    Not sure what part the bezels are, and can't really tell for sure from the pictures, but it looks like the grill is the same with as the hood, it's just the parking lights that are too wide.
    Could you use MM/D-50 parking lights instead? They seem narrower. They come in orange and orange/clear configurations. The latter might work for this.
    It might look a little off, but then again, doesn't this whole rig look a little off?... (in a good way)

  2. #27

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    A little buzz here and there, maybe relocate mounting holes and add a bracket or 2 - but it'll go together. This will make the casual onlooker go "what is this thing?". The chrome grille is a bold statement. Can't wait to see the end product
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  3. #28

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    the bezels are the black plastic headlite surrounds that hold the corners.

    No no no, the chrome is just the only one i could find. its gonna be all black with a white emblem and white MITSUBISHI lettering.

    so the brake booster is done. i still have to make the firewall re-enforcement plate. you can see it here better, it actually
    goes all the way down and surrounds the steering column port as well as the gas pedal mounting holes.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    i still gotta make mounts to the raintray inside the cab, and tweak the pedal arm a bit.
    but its damn close i think.
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    so i been looking at the steering box and the frames mounting holes, i think that modding the right front axle
    mount arm to go down, and if one cut off the front most mount and moved it down & out of the way of the steering
    box pivot to the drop link (hope thats the correct name) somthing like this:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    the green is the cut and notch of the lower c.arm bracket, the grey is kinda how the arm would need
    to go to clear the frame enuff for the LHD box to mount inside the framerail instead of a mirrored RHD steering box
    it wouldnt change the offset over the framerail but maybe an inch towards the center of the rig.
    from the OEM angle the column is on from the wheel to the box right now, i dont think this would be any
    more of an angle. the only thing that would be off is the distance between the pivots of the steering box
    and the idler arm. i was hoping the idler arm mite take up the difference, idk my experiance w this kinda steering
    is a week old.....
    perhaps someone with some deeper knowledge of steering setups might help dissuade this idea????

  4. #29

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    that grille looks similar to same year dodge dakota. Nice touch

    All u need now is an "I4" badge to replace the "V6" emblem in the corner


    Truck looks tuff.... even tougher is your mindset, to tackle this venture. Interesting

  5. #30

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    Its still a 6 for now you smartass. He he.
    It does look very close, its not the most attractive grille, everybody should be clear about the trucks manufacturer at least.

    This truck is tough. I must say that the 4 inch body lift is very nice so far as providing more space to work on things....
    I can't wait to get this thing painted NOT red. I always end up w red vehicles cause its my least favorite colour, gonna be
    a bitch to cover it all up.

  6. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by vagrant_mugen View Post
    the bezels are the black plastic headlite surrounds that hold the corners.
    Oh, I see. But again, it looks like the bezels line up with the hood, the same way the square light bezels do. So it looks like what's too big is the parking/turn signal lights. If you trim the bezels it wont line up with the hood and might look weird.
    I bet you that if you used the Ram 50 parking lights it would be the correct width.

    There's a version of the lights (sold in the Australian market, I'm told by my friends here) that is two tones, amber and clear like the Montero, and fits two bulbs, one for parking light and one for the turn signal. Here is one with the silver trim, could't find a black one just now, but I know they are out there as my truck has them:
    https://www.ebay.com/p/MITSUBISHI-CC...GHT/1229981465

    Here's a picture of the front of my truck, you can see how the two tone corner lights look like (and also confirm that the square bezels line up with the hood, like the round one do)
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Just a suggestion, might be worth considering, as the trimmed bezels could end up looking weird.

    It's gonna be a fun truck no matter what

  7. #32

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    1991 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
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    Yeah I'll mess around w some stuff. The front end isn't even squared back up yet, the left fender needs to get
    yanked back out away from the center, and the right side still needs mending. Once I get it back over to the body
    shoppe I'll finish getting the nose all buttoned up, mount the headlights, build upper & lower cross member/rad supports
    Hang the grille & bezels, etc......
    I'll pull the bed off so I can repair the rott in the frame behind the cab, then sandblast the whole frame/undercarriage as well
    as the cabs bottom, back , rockers & engine bay. Blow off as much red paint as possible, I'm thinking about doin inside the cab
    too. The entire dash is out, I'm pulling the seat, carpet and door cards so I can paint the jams & door insides, I'm gonna sandblast
    every red part that isn't external body. Then I'll know that there's no more rust, rott, and most importanly no more Red.
    Imma industrial pre-prime, epoxy prime & topcoat everything over again from bare white blasted steel. No foolin this trucks gonna
    be brand new again. I just hope I don't destroy it again like I do to every other vehicle i be owned..... Prayin like hell.
    everything

  8. #33

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    Yeah the combination parking/indicator corner lights are for the Aust/UK market. I'd recommend looking into soda blasting. Sand blasting is hell aggressive - I have a Karmann Ghia some idiot attacked with a sand blaster and a 9" flap sander and they pretty much ruined it. Red paint is a biatch to cover up so I get you don't feel up to rubbing everything back by hand. Fingers crossed you can either find someone who can do you a deal or you can source the equipment and give it a shot yourself.
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  9. #34

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    My father is a sandblaster and painter. We know how to do it. You can warp the hell outta body panels super easy,
    esp w big equipment like padres got. Fine sand and black beauty don't tear it up as bad. General rule is don't blast
    exterior panels period. I'm talkin structural/floor/panel hidden areas.
    Can use corn cob or walnut shells as well if non-abrasive is required. Soda blasting is a
    friggin mess. Too fine any humidity screws u up. Shits nasty PITA in my opinion.

    I'm trying to bribe this bloke from Newton Abbott, United Kingdom rite now to expedite a box to me, I'm up to
    240 shipped, that's my ceiling I think.....

  10. #35

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    Alright. I jumped the gun and have a mk3 L200 steering box and lines going out Monday, got the guy
    to do 200 shipped, or $260~. Not terrible and its off a newer truck.
    Hopefully it'll get here nice and quick. Same gen as the idler arm I ordered, the hole pattern looks really
    close to my mk2, I was supposed to wait to make sure w the idler but I'm getting impatient waiting so......
    padre knows now and surprisingly he's cool with it. No reason to be sneaky anymore.
    I still need it to be movable, but I can get all the brackets and mounts sorted out while I'm waiting for
    the box to arrive, then just hafta move the column, clutch & accel pedal over & swap in the RHD box/arm.

    Gonna be so super dope JDM schweetness OMG so F'in cool.... Funny tho it'll probly double the value of the truck.
    Never mind the Montero nose. This thing resto'd, blasted & painted RHD shud fetch 5 grand I'd like to hope,
    Thats with the OEM v6 tidied up, no motor swap.... The rareness factor alone stateside, IDK.

    Those Lil Honda douchers would be so jealous if they knew how easy this is to do on these riggs.
    My friends have a shop in higganum they do alot of RHD civic swaps.
    Clowns are actually drilling out every single spotweld and literally swapping out the entire firewall so its
    "legit JDM spec" I understand but I think they're crazy. I think I'd rather chop the front clip off in front of
    the front seats and mate the JDM front clip to the USD rear, prolly be faster then it'd be a real JDM car, kinda.
    They purchase the entire front clip cut behind the front seats, maybe in front of I forget, from these
    JDM Honda warehouses in jersey full of JDM engines & front clips. If only they had those for
    Mitsu/Toyota trucks & suvs.

  11. #36

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    Awesome, you got a plan and thus so far it's all falling into place. Mitsubishi stuff is surprisingly cross platform adaptable and you'll find a lot of parts can be swapped and/or upgraded. I admit it's not always a nut and bolt swap but it usually doesn't take much to get to the end goal. We have (had?) a member that bought a RHD delivered truck in the states and it got tongues flapping in no time. The other rarity are actual Mitsubishi US dealership delivered pick ups and 4x4's. For it to be legit Mitsubishi JDM you'd have to find the right body badges to match it (no biggie). Mitsubishi cheaped out and made their panels "one fit to do everything" on most production runs so you'll see all of the locations to run heater hoses, A/C, brake booster etc for one market visible for another market. Plugging and welding up the holes won't be hard either especially if you have a shop like you do to work in.
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  12. #37

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    weekend update one day late......

    my bad been slacking on picture posting:
    so i made a template of the OEM firewall re-enforcement plate for whatever stupid reason
    as afterward i realized that its a totally different layout on the right side of the firewall...
    whatever.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    and i started to lay out the steering column port, its actually kinda in a similar spot as the
    LHD template, im not going to drill/cut anything until the box arrives and i can move the
    steering wheel permanently on the RHD-side. then i can see where the hole needs to go.
    i dont think there is ANY kind of flex or u-joint INSIDE the firewall, the 1st on the column is
    just past the firewall in the engine bay, the 2nd is down at the box. so the firewall hole/port needs
    to be in the correct spot, then the shafts bushing/seal unit can get bolted to the firewall round it.
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    But i got the clutch located, hole cut and stud holes drilled, the support plate cut out, ready to spot-weld onto the wall.
    mounted the pedal unit and started fabbing the support bracket that gets welded to the firewall under the windshield:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    and got my wiper linkage pulled out to move over. what a bitch. only x2 of the x6 nuts were NOT rott-welded onto the studs
    managed to get a small set of needle nose vicegrips into the raintray and grabbed onto the bases, after i ground off the tip
    of the studs flush with the nuts, so as to ease removal and not have to spin the nut over crusty blown up rotted metal,
    but still saving enuff of the stud to re-use the linkage assm.
    the factory punched out the 1st hole pattern for the wiper-stem & studs of the RHD set, but the furthest set is not theref
    or whatever reason. so i transferred the pattern over and drilled out the stud holes, ive yet to cut the big slot for the stem.
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    you can see there is this drip shield thing to cover the inlet of the blower motors fresh air intake, ive gotta cut that out
    because the wiper linkage doesnt clear it. i was going to tryin drill out the spot welds, u can see them in white paint marks
    but then i thought better of possibly blasting holes thru my cowel and firewall, so i think im gonna use a cutoff wheel and
    slice iit out flush under the cowel, then weld a flange back on it and transplant it to the left side for the new blower intake.

    And the wiper motor has to get moved over as well, so i cut out the part of the firewall/raintray wall that the mounting
    bosses/weldnuts were on (which i only did when i couldnt reach the 4th of x4 wiper linkage studs w the vicegrips, like a jerk)
    so im swapping the pieces of the firewall so the Left side looks how it would OE RHD, theres a funky C-shaped indent where the
    motor mounts up to the firewall, see:
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    thats all for now, more soon.
    i just hope this bloke i ordered the steering box from gets that expedited ASAMFP. i paid him $315 for a $100 steering box, a
    set of p/s lines, and a RHD accell pedal. he only wanted like $260 shipped i sent him the extra $40 to get him moving...
    paid him sunday nite (early monday mornin in UK) but i dont think he made it to the post. i just hope expidition gets it here
    by the weekend. im not gonna hold my breath, the idler arm still aint here....
    ill keep yall posted tho fo shur.
    nite nite

  13. #38

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    This project sukz ---no Isuzu engine
    JUST KIDDING !!!

    Thank You for the pics/updates--- Just Superlative !!!

  14. #39

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    Completely forgot about having to swap the wiper arm assembly. It would be nice if you could get parts to do the factory RHD swap. Wonder if you'd get anything out of Canada...
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  15. #40

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    Plenty of parts down here

  16. #41

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    Completely forgot about having to swap the wiper arm assembly. It would be nice if you could get parts to do the factory RHD swap. Wonder if you'd get anything out of Canada...
    Canadia got all LHD as well as US, sucks cause thatd be great if they did get RHD's up there. there'd be a shit-ton more
    RHD vehicles in the states thats for sure.

    I been thinking about ur PM about the wiper/turn signal switches roundd the steering wheel. like i said i didnt realize that
    the RHD cars have the headlight/turnsignal stalk on the Right side of the wheel, rather than on the left side as the LHD
    vehicles have. You said it'd be a pain to deal with them switched as of 20years of driving used to it on the left...
    But after some pondering, i realized what a PITA its gonna be to keep it on the left like it is OEM stateside.
    picture it, every time your coming to a stop & turn, your downshifting with your right hand and steering with ur left.
    You hit the turn signal stalk with your middle or ring finger as your steering with your LEFT hand, prolly positioned on the
    LEFTish side of the wheel.
    Now imagine your driving a RHD rigg, doing the same stop & turn. your downshifting with your left hand, and steering
    with your RIGHT. as you start slowing down you have to reach up with your LEFT hand, or move ur RIGHT hand around the
    steering wheel to reach the turn signal stalk on the left side of the wheel. RHD riggs, esp manual transmissions, you steer
    dominantly with your RIGHT hand. so to have the turn signal stalk as close to your dominant steering hand for smooth, quick
    & fluid access only makes sense. Not an immediate issue, but definitley worth getting the proper RHD switches in the future.


    Quote Originally Posted by tortron View Post
    Plenty of parts down here
    well the UK is less than satifactory, i bet things would arrive quicker from the other side of the globe, rather
    than 5000miles away cross the atlantic..., this is just stupid.
    that sure sounded like an offer to ship things up & over to
    Im not tryin to talk shite about the british, im sure theres alot of very hard workers on that island,
    but the x2 guys ive dealt with in the past 2 weeks were less than ambitious. IDK, i just want this box to get
    here so i can move everthing over & done. then i can get blastin & painting the frame, and all the NON-exteriour
    body panels. i finshed the clutch pedal support backet, just need to weld on m8 nuts and spot-weld the whole
    onto the firewall above the column:

  17. #42

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    Depends on the car as to side of indicator switch. Gets me every time in the Mrs' golf

  18. #43

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    I could get RHD column covers and switch assemblies all day cheap here. The 'good' thing is the Australian dollar is toilet paper at the moment (yay ) so the exchange rate would be in your favour. Meh, I'd toss in a couple of Oz market body and fender badges as well... 2 plastic cases and a switch yoke would weigh stuff all (I'm not even sure if you'd need the column covers anyway...)
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  19. #44

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    I was falling asleep at the keyboard, that's why there's no pics. I'll get some up today,
    Sorry

  20. #45

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    Holy crap that post is terrible. I swore I loaded pictures.... Kept passing out and waking up to a page of jibberish
    from my hand on the keyboard.

    I'll definitely take a proper set of switch yokes if u can find em. Mite have a couple other small, lite weight RHD bits I'll
    need as well, I'll let one or both of you know when I have a small list...

    Wanker still giving me the runaround on the steering box. I gave him 12 more hours to send me a tracking number.
    Should've just pulled outta this I'm sure I'll regret not canceling yesterday. Lazy MFers.
    Your gonna sell shit on ebay, get the stuff shipped out once ur paid. Bollocks

    This anglo, uber-retarded timing is messin up my tune big time. Gonna push this back another week at least.
    I mite have to switch gears and clean out my carbs on my 600r ninja, its getting warmer out.
    Once I run out of brackets to make & holes to cut/drill imma have some time to twiddle my thumbs waiting on parts.

    I'll re post that mess from last note in a bit. I would edit it but I'm still on probation being a newbie here.

  21. #46

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  22. #47

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    i finshed the clutch pedal support backet, just need to weld on m8 nuts and spot-weld the whole thing
    onto the firewall above the column:
    Attachment 22026Attachment 22027Attachment 22028Attachment 22029
    IF that damnable steering box and idler arm ever show up, the next thing is going to be cutting and modifying
    the steering column support bar that mounts under the column from the side of the cab to the bolt-in upright
    at the center console. the long side needs to switch with the short side thusley:
    Attachment 22030
    then i think im going to re-use the upper column support, its just so pretty.
    but in all honesty, i can actually re-use it because the firewall on the right side is the same height and
    shape as the left. most of the other parts were at different distances from things in there new RHD locals...
    Click image for larger version. 

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    im planning on replikating the OEM pajero dashboard out of sheet steel, its all straight bends across the span
    of the wind screen so i shouldnt be too difficult to do. ill probly omit the middle vents as i never
    use them:

    i was thinking about using an oem center console, but i kind of like the fact i can cut/weld and mount anything
    i want to it, not to mention repairs or further modifications. i like the look of the mkI dashboard alot,
    much better than the mighty max's.

    so nice and simple and clean and sharp looking.

  23. #48

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    jesus WTF.
    heres the 1st 4 pictures:
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    and hell yeah im gonna plasma out the mitsu emblem on that bracket.
    and the 5th pic that didnt load properly
    Click image for larger version. 

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    And yes im planning on donating soon as i have sommore cash, NOT ONLY because id like to edit my posts
    in situations such as these....

  24. #49

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    03-02-2019
    Posts
    52
    Location

    East Haddam, CT
    Vehicle

    1991 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    6G72
    Definitely NOT looking forward to adding 4 foot of wires individually to extend that chassis harness to get it to reach
    the right hand side. I don't wanna wait or pay for the proper one so F it. Give me something to do while I wait
    for these steering bits to arrive....

    I've been trying to think of a place to relocate my battery to, and perhaps add if not a 2nd battery just yet, at least
    a spot where it can go when I want/need it. I'd usually go to the trunk/boot with them, but I don't have a boot on this.
    I don't want to take up any bed space, and behind the seats would be a major pain in the ass.
    I think I'm going to cut a trap door in the new passenger (old drivers) side floor in front of the seat, and weld in a nice
    double size battery box that will protrude down next to the framerail. With the 4inch body lift there is more than enuff
    space, and its bottom wouldnt be lower than the frames. Anybody have any possible con's regarding such placement???
    It'll prolly be made outta 1/8 inch sheet steel so It won't crush easily from below....

  25. #50

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    01-24-2017
    Posts
    608
    Location

    New Zealand
    Vehicle

    1981 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    Other
    Some of the 4wd trucks have the battery under the tray. Right hand side near the bed mounts. The lower panel of the wellside tray is made to be removable.

    Would you not just move the loom over to the other side of the truck? All the mounts and holes are there already

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